Wiring for spots.

[Andy.]

Ok I need some advice please.

I have two front fogs (in the front valance), two spots on the A bar and 4 spots on the roof which I need to all wire to three seperate switches.

The fogs and A bar spots are already wired to relays in the engine bay then they each have a wire taken into the interior where they used to be switched.
The roof spots are the same, relayed and wired in.

All the new switches have little bulbs in them, where do I get the power for these from?

The roof spots are hard wired into a main light feed from the steering column, as are the front fogs.

So what I would like is any wiring diagrams anyone has to help me wire these up.

[hobbit]

I'm presuming the switches have 3 connections on them, if so 2 will be for the feed in and out and the 3rd should be for an earth to complete the circuit for the warning light

[Andy.]

They have two wires going to the switch part and then another two coming from the light feed.

Here is a pic of the switches that I'm using.

[Range Rover Blues]

They look like RR ones :D

If you've got 3 switch and 3 sets of lights? I took the power for my fogs from the sidelights, actually the backlights before the dimmer resistor!  The main beams obviously from the high beamcircuit and the worklights I'd suggest from the sidelights also.
I've used a diode or two to make my fogs come on with my main beam and plan to do the same when I get some roof lights.  the wiring isn't difficult except that you don't get much space.

[Budgie]

On the Disco I've got.....................

Two 130 watt Procomp spots on the A-bar that are powered from the spare battery through two relays, one per light, and triggared from the main beam switch.

Two roof mounted 55 watt spots off the spare battery using one relay and the same triggar as the Procomps.

Two roof mounted Britex twin bulb floods (2x55 watt bulbs in each) again off the spare battery with a relay each and triggard off the dip beam.
Both sets of roof lights are connected to a switches on the dash so you can choose what to have on.  

The floodlights give about the same beam (only a bit wider) as the dip beam headlights and have the advantage that you can still have them on so you can see should the headlights get covered in mud or when wading at night, yet you don't blind the driver in front!  :D

[ChrisW]

Hmmm so what else did you pick up from the scrapyard then?!!

You really want a multi-meter or tester of somesort to check for which wires you have continuity on, I would imagine it could be something like one pair is across the switch and the other is across the lamp.

Maplins should do one for a fiver - maximum of a tenner - one with a buzzer when you have continuity is useful so you don't have to keep checking the display.

[Andy.]

You've all totally lost me, so I guess I'm gonna have to pay for them tobe wired up somehow  :?:

[ChrisW]

They have two wires going to the switch part and then another two coming from the light feed.

I *think* the two wires on the switch part will be for the feed in and the switched feed out, theo two from the light feed will be a supply for the lamp and an earth.

You could test this by connecting the light feed cables across a battery but be careful to make sure you don't melt or blow anything.

Personally I would use the multimeter to check if the wires across the switch part are connected when the switch is operated and disconnected when the switch is off.
You can then use the meter to measure the resistance across the two sets of wires - the one with the indicator lamp on should be a slightly higher resistance than that of the switched pair.

This one looks a handy addition to the toolbox...
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=-10943&&source=14&doy=search

[ChrisW]

Don't forget - the hard part doing all the wiring etc is done - all your doing is changing the switch on the end - if you can do your fusebox / second battery I reckon this should be a walk in the park for you!  

[Andy.]

Don't forget - the hard part doing all the wiring etc is done - all your doing is changing the switch on the end - if you can do your fusebox / second battery I reckon this should be a walk in the park for you!  

Cheers Chris, this is of course coming after seeing smoke last weekend. I might have a go this coming weekend  :?

[Andy.]

They have two wires going to the switch part and then another two coming from the light feed.

I *think* the two wires on the switch part will be for the feed in and the switched feed out, theo two from the light feed will be a supply for the lamp and an earth.

OK the feed in comes from where  :?: , the relay or the exsisting light loom form the vehicle  :?: And respectively the feed out goes to where  :?:

[Wanderer]

An attempt to simplify things.

The relay is only a switch that is capable of handling the current passing though it. High current (amps) will take out most normal switches by burning the contacts (think of the frankenstein films when they pull the big switch breaker and it sparks all over the place)

The relay (switch) has wires capable of handling the current. These wires are generally connected directly from the battery (via fuses) to the relay and then on to the appliance.

That's two wires of the relay.

Another is the earth for the relay (not the appliance)

The other is a trigger that makes the relay operate (as a switch)

The trigger doesn't need to be as thick as the supply wires (1 and 2) as it only handles enough current to make the relay (switch) operate.
With additional lights you might want to take the power to the switch from (say) the high beam wires under the bonnet.
Stick a small fuse (enough to power the relay) in line after you tap into the high beam wire to protect your cable and switch.
Take this trigger wire to your switch and then to the pin on the relay that causes it to operate.

Voila you've got a working relay system.

Now for lights you need a warning light. Usually on the switch there's an extra connector for the earth of the bulb in the switch. Just earth that and when your appliance or lights work the bulb will light up in the switch.

Apologies if I've over simplified it but HTH

Ed

[Andy.]

Cheers Ed (I think).

As Chris has said the relays and the wiring are already in place they just need slight modification.

My four roof spots are at the minute on a on/off/on switch, on with the Abar spots on full beam, on, on there own and off. The new switch is only on and off so some wiring has too be taken out somewhere  :?: This is also fused inline between switch and relay.

All the new switches have a total of four wires to them. Two for the little bulb, one earth and the other for when the switch is on, where do I wire this wire too  :?:

This switched on wire is also looped into one of the other wires coming from one of the switch pins which leaves just one more pin wire  :?:

I sure it's very easy, and it's furstrating that I so close to getting the new switch panel all done.

[Wanderer]

I haven't seen the back of a raro switch.

Can you take a photo of it and let's see where we go from there.

Ed

[Andy.]

A quick look andI've found his one.

The ones I have or the grey coloured connectors, ignore the other two in the pic.

The grey one you can see the orange bulb and the black earth wire, and then you can just make out two other wires next to this, one loops into one of the other main wires.

I can take some better tomorrow for you.

[Andy.]

Right had another look tonight, both the front fogs and spots have just one wire coming into the interior via the relays which are housed in the engine compartment.

The other wires from relays are the earths, battery feeds and persumably the feeds from the light units themselves.

The roof lights have a feed coming from the lights into the interior, and then into a relay pin 87. 85 is earthed. 30 goes to a brown wire from the ignition and 86 goes to the switch which is in at the minute. This also has another red wire looped into it which goes to a white wire again from the ignition  :?:

There is a thick blue wire which links both the roof light switch and the fog switch.

Here is also the back of the switch with the wires.

[Andy.]

And another one.

[ChrisW]

What you are interested in is the wires that go from the switches to the 85 pin on the relays - this is the switch wire that operates the relay.

Do you intend that the new switches can switch the lights on regardless of what state the ignition or the normal lighting is in?
If so, you need to run a supply (fused) off the battery to one side of the switch and off the other side of the switch to pin 85 of the relevant relay.

If you want the front fogs to only come on if the sidelights are on then the switch wire needs to be connected from the sidelights to one side of the switch and off the other side of the switch to pin 85 of the relevant relay.

If you want the spot lights to only come on if the headlights/main beam is on then the switch wire needs to be connected from the headlights to one side of the switch and off the other side of the switch to pin 85 of the relevant relay.

When we did your roof spots did we wire them up so you can have them on, off or on with main beam? I think we did, in which case you will have relays spare when you rewire, if you check the relays one should have a switch wire connected directly to the battery (I think we picked it up off the ignition cabling) and one switch wire will be connected off the back of one of the headlamps (I think - memory fading fast!) This is where the multimeter really comes in handy!

Don't forget, some wiring diagrams on my webshots... under Disco Mods on page 2 I think.

[ChrisW]

Looking at the pic of the back of the switch my guess is...
Red & Green (?) supply in from battery/switch circuit (sidelight - main beam etc)
Red & Orange - switched supply out to operate relay
Thinner red & orange - loop to indicator on switch
Black - earth for indicator on lamp
Based on the above, when the switch is made the indicator lamp comes on - not sure if there's supposed to be a connection to the dash lights or anything tho.

Again, this is where the multimeter comes in handy!

[Andy.]

Cheers Chris excellent  :D

I'm sure on the roof light relay 85 pin was earthed, might be wrong and did'nt check the other two, but I think I have it now.

There are only three wires off the switches, earth for the lamp and then to the feed and relay switch so I don't think a connection to the dash lights is needed.

Yes your right about the roof lights on/off/on. On with no ignition on, off and on with main beam.

How do I find out which wire is on and which is switched off on the switches  :?:

Cheers again those diagrams on your webshots are very handy.

[ChrisW]

How do I find out which wire is on and which is switched off on the switches  :?:

I think the easiest way is to trace the cabling - put the switches into the 'on regardless' position then pull one of the 'feed in' connectors off the back of the switch and see if the lights turn off - course you could get the hint about the multi-meter and be able to check for voltage at the switch wire!    :lol:

[Andy.]

Well it's done.

Well not wired up until tomorrow now but all the wires are now found and labelled up ready for connecting.

A big, big thanks to all who gave advice I owe you all a beer next time I see you  :D

Pic's to follow of the new switches, hopefully by the end of the weekend  

[ChrisW]

Good news on identifying everything then

Whats the update for today?

[Andy.]

Good news on identifying everything then

Whats the update for today?

Well they all work anyway and I did'nt blow anything. But and there is always a but when I have the main lights on along with the front lower fogs and then I put full beam on for the two spots on the A bar the front fogs go off.

Now I wired the A bar spots to the main beam dip wire blue/white and the front fogs to the red/blue wire. I think I need to wire the front fogs to a different wire  :?:

The update was to post some pics but have'nt stopped packing up boxes all day.

[hobbit]

Fogs should work on dipped headlights only, spots on beams

[Andy.]

Fogs should work on dipped headlights only, spots on beams

Right main lights on dipped, fogs work OK, switch to main beam and they go off when the front spots come on. But when I flash using the stalk, pulling the stalk forward they remain on  :?:

Before I could have them all on together  :?:

[Range Rover Blues]

Sound like the power for the fog light switch come from the dipped beam, when you pull the courtesy flash the dipped beam stays on (and the headlights get very hot).  One fix for this is to use a diode from the main beam circuit to the fog light relay switch output (between the switch and the relay).

[ChrisW]

As RRB said, when you hit main beam the feed to dipped beam drops out hence the switch feed to the fogs drops out and the lights go off!

Ideally you need to pick up a switch feed to the fogs from the side-light circuit so that when you switch side-lights on the fogs are 'enabled' failing that you could always use a permanent feed as the switch wire but this isn't the right way for fogs to be switched and I know what you're like (that and somebody will be along quoting construction and use regs!)    :lol:

[Andy.]

As RRB said, when you hit main beam the feed to dipped beam drops out hence the switch feed to the fogs drops out and the lights go off!

Ideally you need to pick up a switch feed to the fogs from the side-light circuit so that when you switch side-lights on the fogs are 'enabled' failing that you could always use a permanent feed as the switch wire but this isn't the right way for fogs to be switched and I know what you're like (that and somebody will be along quoting construction and use regs!)    :lol:

I thought as much Chris after reading the workshop manual I have.

Is there a side light feed off the steering column switch, I can't see any reference to one, so will it have to be from the engine bay, and will it be OK to feed off one side i.e the RHS side light feed  :?:
Or how about using the rear fog light feed, but then I suppose when I turn on the front fogs the rear ones will also be switched on  :?:

[Bush Tucker Man]

MMmm, I feel like coming up right now & having a look at this spaghetti, seeing as it's my last night of freedom