FAO Landyman

[Merlin]

Hi, when you did your sills what do you have to do to get the old ones out.
From what I have read my best bet is new inners + a repair panel for the outers.  Can you get the inners off by just taking the two mounts off where they join the body + cutting as needed? or do you have to take other mountings off to get a space by lifting the whole body/side up?
Basically, can you tell me how you did the job please, I'm good at mechanical but not at bodywork ( but learning)--Cheers--Cogs.

[Range Rover Blues]

I'm watching with interest, I have the sill to do on a 4 door starying this week, tomorrow I'm starting easily with a trip to Paddocks.

[Merlin]

Wish Paddocks was nearer, 200 mls. from me.
Landyman, any chance of a bit of help here please, the job will need doing soon as my welding friend is going away.
Got the black plastic Rivets!!! no probs. from my local independant L/R place.
Cheers--Cogs

[landyman Ash]

Blimey, we did the RR years ago but we only removed the rotten bits.

Paddocks should post them too you at a reasonable price.  

We cut the outersill off and patched the inner ONLY where it was rotten and then welded the repair plates onto the outer.

I dont have any pics.

Are they really rotten???  

We did the rear arches at the same time, again from paddocks.

[Merlin]

Thanks for that, I've had a closer look & will get away with Paddocks "Outer Sill Repair Kits" on both sides + some patching on the inners.--Cheers--Cogs

[hobbit]

Paddocks do free delivery with orders over 50 quid

[landyman Ash]

As long as you order on-line

You dont get the discount when you ring plus is £50 EX VAT!  So be careful.

Dead helpful lot though!  Used them for years, fantatsic!!!

[Range Rover Blues]

Cogs, I've started doing my Wedathon now.  The sills are easy, -ish.  I bought new inner sills complete and the outer sill repairs from Paddocks, I think they have these bent up locally.
The outers only have the 'floor' section around the front door and have a cutout for the B post also, which is odd because they need to slide in behind the post, not over the outside face.
Anyway I'd suggest that unless the floor is very bad that you cut along the line of spot welds that holds the inner sill to the floor for the length of both doors.  Drill out the spot welds holding the seat belt mount to the floor. If rust hasn't taken care of the ends of the sill you need to cut them off somehow.  Unbolt the body mounts.
I was then able to stand on the sill and force it downwards 'till it fell off.

Start with the new inner sill.  Bolt the mounts into place to hold it firm then seam weld the old floor to the edge of the inner sill lip where it would normally be spot welded to the floor.

Make up the front and back of the sill before fitting the outer.

I'm going to suggest you cut the top 'floor' section off the outer sill panel before fitting it, it's too wide anyway so there's plenty left.  Fit the outer sill and weld through the bottom flange to spot weld it, drill pilot holes if you need to.  Now you can paint inside the sills.

Finaly take the bit of the panel you cut off and bend the edge to form a lip for the door rubber, the repair panels don't have this, and weld it onto the outer sill to finish.

I'm doing it this way to limit the amount of welding I do underneath and also so that I can try to rustproof the inside of the sills, at least the bottom edge where the muck settles will be painted.  I'm going to drill from outside to waxoil the sill once it's been MOT'ed and body chutz (the waxoil one) the underneath after having it steam cleaned locally.


BTW the panels cost

Inner sill £30
Outer sill repair £17
Footwell £20

All plus VAT

And you will need a square metre of 1mm steel for the ends of the sill plus any rot in the fear floor.

Andrew

[Merlin]

RRC, excellent, thanks.  Will let you know what I have done to mine when the job is finished (& started).  At the moment I am renewing brake pipes that I found to be very dodgy when I was looking as sill rot.  Done the long one no probs & then spotted the one that goes up from the same front union is dodgy- todays job, also the rubber hose under the top-up tank has for some reason just started to leak (the low pressure one). Just normal old car probs.!!!
The sills will have to wait till end of Sept. now, hols. In York & Knaresborough for 2.5 weeks coming up.--Cheers--Tony

[Merlin]

Just ordered 2*"Outer sill repair kits" from Paddocks & they are FREE delivery & the bill is only £41,Most helpful.-Cogs

[hobbit]

Just ordered 2*"Outer sill repair kits" from Paddocks & they are FREE delivery & the bill is only £41,Most helpful.-Cogs

Changed their policy then on price, thats good

I was up there for a cross member and it wasn't in for a couple of days, paid for it and they sent it out to me no charge

Always worth checking their website for the offers they throw out now and again

[Merlin]

Just finished, as you said RRC, cut the "floor" sections off.  Can't see how they would fit anyway because of the lip the door seal goes over.  Not a bad job, some patching on the inners + some on the posts but all in all a job worth doing properly.  Can now forget about that area after "Shutzing" it all tomorrow.--Cogs

[Range Rover Blues]

Unfortunatley if the rot gets in from inside (wet carpets etc) then that rail is MIA when you start the repair, so I had to make a new one.  Once I'd done the first side I decided it was best to cut that floor section off, then fold 1" of the off-cut up at 90deg and weld it back on to make the sill-top and lip in one peice, also a nice easy weld in the valley between the two folds.  Because I was doing the inner and outer, plus rot in the floor I just cut the car off at the row of weld that holds the inner sill on, everything outward of that is in the bin now.

I've just finished the footwell on the second side but I've decided to put a new inner front arch in too, weather permitting but I'm taking the weekend off, all that welding's given me migrane.

PS, did your door drop whilst you were doing the A post? :shock:

[Merlin]

Hmmm!!, I thought the gap was wider.  Will check when the downpour stops.--Cogs