body lift

[fatclive]

has anyone got any tips for doing a 2" body lift, have read up & seems only tricky bit could be extending the steering column. Am I being a bit daft or just very hopeful ?

[way2deep]

which rangie are you lifting????????????? i did a 2" body lift on my mk1 rangie and used a mk2 steering shaft,fitted a treat :D

[fesuvious]

mk2 steering shaft ????

Does that mean It came from a P38 ?

Help me here - I too have problems with my shaft !

[fatclive]

Am trying to lift a 1992 vogue se, when you say mk 2 is that a p38 or the later classics ?

[way2deep]

soory for any confusion  :oops: i used the shaft from the later classic to fit my early one.thats the rod with the two knuckle joints on it in engine bay!!!!

[clover]

I have considered this myself.

I am told that you only need to worry about the steering column if you are lifting the body more than 2".

Don't forget you will need spacers for the rear seat blet mounts and also for the radiator.

Who is making your spacers for you?

I want to price up a set myself.

I think its a much better way of going about things than a suspension lift as you don't have to worry about castor angles and stuff like that.

Cheers

John

[Wolfie_]

Ive done a two inch lift on my 1988 rrc and I have had no problems with the steering at all. took me a day to do it using just a hi-lift jack.All I did with the steering was loosen all the uj bolts wiggle the steering a bit and retightened the bolts

 



As for kits there's a user on here called sharpshooter that can make the spacers and extended bolts for the seat belt mounts



The radiator drops 2"  and all I did was drill two holes 2" further down the slam panel and rebolted the mounts on

[fatclive]

thanx for the info, as soon a I get the spacers I will atempt lift & will post any problems/easy fixes I encounter.

[way2deep]

i left rad on original mounts and did away with the cowling and fan ..i used sierra twin electirc fans and wired them up as seperate items .my v8 stays cool with only one being used tho

[way2deep]

also the clutch pipe needs re positioning cos it goes thru the bulkhead mount and won't be long enough to reach slave cylinder once lifted ..

[Sharpshooter]

:D  You Rang  :D

[Wolfie_]

also the clutch pipe needs re positioning cos it goes thru the bulkhead mount and won't be long enough to reach slave cylinder once lifted ..

Mine is just long enough but would agree its advisable to replace it with a longer pipe

[Grunter]

Have been looking at doing this myself, mines got auto box so no worries there but anyone know what front brake pipes will do, i have some pro comp +4" shocks and +2" hd springs waiting to be fitted and with the body lift as well want to make sure they will be long enough, mines the twin pipe per caliper variety

[keithdixon]

Sounds of interest,

Can someone who has done this list what needs doing & what is required.

Also if there are any down sides to lifting the body

[Sharpshooter]

Wolfies your man for the fitting, and im your man for the bits. :)

[keithdixon]

do you have a price for the bits for an 84 rr classic 5 door
& what bits are included (and excluded) to do the job


rgs

keith dixon

[Wolfie_]

I ummed and ared for quite a while before actualy doing the lift(about 18 months and 3 rangies later)
But after helping a freind do his I decided to bite the bullet and do it.
the worst part and most time consuming part of the job had to be undoing all the nuts and bolt that had never been undone since new. Once that was done I had no problems. I used one hi-lift jack to raise the body. It was very simple to do, once all the bolts were undone(10 bolts hold the shell down and 4 bolts tie the rear seat belt mount and front floor to the chassis ) I put the jack under the sill just in front of the front door and jacked it up high enough to get most of the spacers in on one side, I then had to put the jack under the rear just to lift enough to get the very rear spacer in, I then repeated this on the other side.The main problems you come across is that you cant just put longer bolt through the holes, you have to remove the bushes and put the bolts through at an angle and then resettle the bushes back into place (sounds worse than it is to do ,when doing it you'll find it easier to picture what i mean)the only two bolts I couldn't put back in were the two rear ones as there is just not enough room so I put these up from the bottom but all were secured with nylock nuts so shouldn't be a problem.The only problem Ive encountered is that mines got a manual gearbox and the clutch pipe is a bit tight and could do with being replaced with a longer one.which ever side you do first you need to take the bolts out other wise they catch and the chassis lifts as well, leave the other sides bolts in so that the shell cant move side ways and extreme but possibly fall off the chassis.When we did my friends he used a hi-ab crane and as he picked up the shell it swung sideways by about 6" so I recommend leaving in some bolts.put one spacer and bolt in at a time and once through put the nut on just a couple of turns and it will stop you displacing the spacers if you need to lift a bit more.Don't forget to unclip your bumper end caps from the body and once the lift is complete loosen all the steering uj bolts and wiggle the steering wheel abit and then tighten the bolts back up.there are several floor supports that need some blocks and you need to drill two new holes for the top radiator mounts and thats about it. I had mine done for several months now and I use it as my daily drive and have had no problems what so ever and last weekend went greenlaning with no problems at all. hope that helps any more questions please ask or if anything isn't to clear in my description please ask

Ian
As for the kit you need 10 spacers + 4 extended tie bolts and you will also need to get some  10 3/8 unf x 6"(for 2" lift)

[Wolfie_]

Have been looking at doing this myself, mines got auto box so no worries there but anyone know what front brake pipes will do, i have some pro comp +4" shocks and +2" hd springs waiting to be fitted and with the body lift as well want to make sure they will be long enough, mines the twin pipe per caliper variety

You will need to change your brake pipes for longer ones or relocate your pipes lower down

[Grunter]

relocate the pipes it is then!!
i picked up 10 3/8 unf x 6" bolts today but they only have about 1" of thread, is this enough or should i cut the thread further before i start the job, dont really want to be adding packing if i can help it.

[Sharpshooter]

relocate the pipes it is then!!
i picked up 10 3/8 unf x 6" bolts today but they only have about 1" of thread, is this enough or should i cut the thread further before i start the job, dont really want to be adding packing if i can help it.

What are you making the rest of the kit from?

I have found the polypropelyne ones the best.

[Grunter]

well i have 40 spacers in all, 20 x 1" and 20 x 1 1/2" so could combine these for various heights, got a full set of std new body mount rubbers, new washers and waited ages for new top hat inserts, i think that only leaves the tie rods left to worry about.

[fatclive]

got a friend at an engineering company to make me 10 x 40mm diameter x 50 mm long with a 10mm clearance hole in center spacers in mild steel for the vast amount of £0.00. Hopefully fitting them this weekend so will let you know of any problems I may encounter.

[barmiebrumie]

Whatching this post with interest, as I really fancy doing this,  understand the problems with brake pipes steering shaft but what happens with the h/brake& gearleavers,


Thanks John.

[Grunter]

well just off to attack mine now, decided to go for it and just make things up as i go along....

[Grunter]

well thats that done, only problems were one of the bolts had decided it was not going to part company with the rest of the bush or chassis whatever was done to it, oh and i forgot about an earth bonding strap, wires for the petrol sender needed extending, went for the easy option with rad and just removed cowling as lowering the rad would have meant remounting the oil cooler which i couldnt be bothered with today. maybe some other time. Getting enough lift to fit the spacers was a problem as i only have a bottle jack and much of the lifting range was taken up by the springs as weight was taken off the chassis, winding some coil spring compressors on by hand before jacking the body soon sorted that one!
 
biggest problem with this job.......
        EVERYONE can now see the bits under the wheelarches that need a little.. attention

[way2deep]

Whatching this post with interest, as I really fancy doing this,  understand the problems with brake pipes steering shaft but what happens with the h/brake& gearleavers,


hi mate,when i lifted mine i didn't have a proplem with gear sticks,made the hi-low  one a bit longer tho just for comfort more than anything else. was a bit close to the gaiter

[way2deep]

another way to help ease the job is that before you lift body put axle stands under opposite chassis rail as this stop that side from sagging down on suspension

[Dave]

What do you have to do with the bumpers they will need lifting to look right.

[way2deep]

i left my front one on for a while till i fitted winch bumper which sits on top of chassis rails  ,it looked ok (i suppose) rear was left off ,looks better

[jjsaul]

i left my front one on for a while till i fitted winch bumper which sits on top of chassis rails  ,it looked ok (i suppose) rear was left off ,looks better

got any pics??