Front shocks

[Jonny Boaterboy]

I have a 1994 Range Rover with air suspension, I have got stearing wheel shake/wobble when I go over bumps at speed or round a bend. I have put an old man emu stearing damper on and tightened the pr-tensioner on the swivel housing. (maybe not enough!) both of which have reduced the shake/wobble but not got rid of it. My next line of attack is the dampers. Which brings me to my question... which make/type do you think I should go for? Old man emu, de carbon and Bilstein are top choice at the moment with pro comp a close second. I'm seting the Range Rover up for semi serious off road ability but it is also my every day car. Should I be going for gas, oil, mono or twins and which are the best quality that will last a long time.

Thanks alot

Jonny

[Sharpshooter]

I had a similar problem with my 110. I changed the Panhard rod bushes and bolts today, and it has stiffened up my steering and suspension.

P.S. The panhard rod goes between the axle and the chassis, to stop the axle moving sideways. (If you didnt know) :D

[Xtremeteam]

you say pretensioner? did you remove some shimd from the top of the swivel pin??

if so yes it will have tightened up the swivels BUT if the bearings have never been changed it could be them on there way out thats giving you the slack in the first place

IMHO Fit a decarbon steering damper then fit pro comp es9000 shocks allround,cheap & have alifetime gurantee for the length of time you own the motor (dads just got a waranty claim on a rear shock for his 110 3 years after buying them)  

[Range Rover Blues]

I'd agree with the pro-comps, unfortunately they don't do a steering damper it seems but Explorer can supply a Gabriel unit that's bl**dy good.  I find the DeCarbon pressurised tends to bias the steering a little, otherwise it's a nice damper.

Check you've done the steering swivels properly, there are 2 different specs depending on the year and the Haynes manual only covers the earlier ABS type, not the later, as the Haynes was last changed in 1990 it seems.  Anyway, if you have the ABS type axles then you have Railko type bushes at the top, if these are worn you can't adjust the play out of them like you can with twin taper rollers.  Of course the bottom taper roller is retained.
You need to drop the steering links and feel how smooth the steering is at the knuckle, if it's at all lumpy you may need new bearings, then check the torque required to turn the knuckle (after the initial force required to move if) it's 45-65ft/lbs on the 1990 model, that's a lot.  It's lower on later cars but I can't remember how much.

Again this won't cure a worn out Railko bush.

[Budgie]

I'd agree with the pro-comps, unfortunately they don't do a steering damper it seems but Explorer can supply a Gabriel unit that's bl**dy good.

Ummm - they do!  :P  ES2000 for a RRC upto 94 are £30. :mrgreen:


Jonny,
What about the wheel bearings, have you checked them for play?
I've found this to be the cause of many a steering wheel wobble.  

[Range Rover Blues]

Your right, I remeber now I asked them for a non-pressurised damper, which ProComp don't do.  Anyway, with the swivels done properly I don't think you should need a heavy steering damper.

[Jonny Boaterboy]

Well that gives me a bit to be going on with! I cant give any explanations on whether or not I have done what you have all sugested as I am fairly new to Range Rovers and i'm not 100% sure where all the bits are but I will consult my Land Rover cd as the haynes does not cover my model  Sound like the pro comp are the shoks to go for from what you are all telling me I guess with a life time guarantee they carnt be too bad

Thanks alot

Jonny

[Xtremeteam]

im guessin thats the rave cd you have,it os better than the haynes book of lies but doesnt tell you everything like how the haynes does,personally dont need a cd as i get them from work on loan

[Budgie]

It could be the new(ish) CD ROM's than Land Rover have published.

I've got one for the Rangie and it's got the Parts Manuals, Service Manuals, Electrical Trouble Shooting Manuals and Owners Manuals on it.  :D

[muddyweb]

All of which are quite likely protected under copyright, so let's not advertise them here please ;-)

[Budgie]

You are quite correct Tim, however, the one I have IS a Genuine Land Rover product, Part Number LHP2 and I even have proof of purchase........... somewhere.  

[Garth]

Hi Jonny

Let me know how you get on as I had/have same problem.  Stripped swivels adjusted swivel bearings, deflex bushes (orange) fitted, steering damper took off and checked, steering box adjusted. I think thats all, however the shake went away after all that but have done 3000M since and its starting to come back (and I have re-torqued all suspension bolts).

There are so many possible answers I have found you just have to work through them cheepest first.  

Try to avoid changing steering damper (unless it is obviously NG) as a new one can "mask" the real problem.

Garth

[Jonny Boaterboy]

oops! Sorry didnt think think about the implications.... so I wont be coppying my ligitamate coppy of the disc to anyone sorry. Thanks for you note Garth I will carry on working through the list I havent checked a few things on the there but its not too bad at the moment so will live with it untill I have a bit more spear time and money

later Jonny

[Range Rover Blues]

Hi Jonny

Let me know how you get on as I had/have same problem.  Stripped swivels adjusted swivel bearings, deflex bushes (orange) fitted, steering damper took off and checked, steering box adjusted. I think thats all, however the shake went away after all that but have done 3000M since and its starting to come back (and I have re-torqued all suspension bolts).
Garth

Did you re-check the swivel pre=load? it's possible that if you didn't get the bearings seated properly they have now moved and your pre-load is gone.

[Garth]

No I have't checked since I did them as I was very carefull to get it right first time BUT its worth a check.
As everything is built up its impossible to tourque one of the bolts but I am sure I have seen a drawing of a "special tool" somewhere with dimensions on it that fits over the bolt head and has an offet square to locate torque wrench onto.  I have had a look tonight but canot re-find it .
Does any one have it to hand so I can make my own tool

[Range Rover Blues]

No I have't checked since I did them as I was very carefull to get it right first time BUT its worth a check.
As everything is built up its impossible to tourque one of the bolts but I am sure I have seen a drawing of a "special tool" somewhere with dimensions on it that fits over the bolt head and has an offet square to locate torque wrench onto.  I have had a look tonight but canot re-find it .
Does any one have it to hand so I can make my own tool

That tool is to check the pre-load on swivels with a Railko bush ie ABS vehicles.  You can still check the preload using a spring balance (or a weight, peice of string, pulley) and remember that 1990 MY vehicles have a different spec to 1991 onwards.  TBH you can get away with putting the torque wrench onto the swivel botls anyway, the tool is superfluous.