Propshaft problems

[Wanderer]

Hi All,

While looking at another problem I had this thought.

If you are getting propshaft vibration after doing a lift it might be that the problem lies here.

Most LR propshaft as originally fitted can have the slider easily removed.
Without any real knowledge it is possible to put the slider back in the wrong position thereby putting the UJs into a position where they are out of phase.

On all of the propshafts I've looked at pre 93 you can slide the slider out and seperate the prop.

When you put the slider back in ( I have this info from a propshaft manufactuer so don't doubt it's validity) it has to line up properly.

If you look at the section of the UJ that's part of the flange there's a small nodule on the casing (raised mound of metal) and this should line up with the missing spline in the longer section of the propshaft.
It is possible to slide the slider in in the wrong position (difficult but possible) which ill leave the ujs out of phase.

Maybe this might help someone along the line if it has been refitted wrong.

I hope it all makes sense.

In my case it looks like a double cardon and TD5 flange which I have on order from the nice man at Devon 4x4. I think his name is Tim something or other.

[s.stirley]

Yes, that's definately true .. reminds me I must re-greased all my UJs soon too, will make a note to check if they look in-phase whilst I'm under there ! Cheers

[DISCO-CHRIS]

top bloke that tim, supplied me with the same bits last week.
so much nicer to drive now and cd,s don't keep skipping!!

[Range Rover Blues]

Took me a while to get my head round 'till I realised the diffs are further out than the transfer box but the front prop uj are in pahse when they are not lined up completely :?   So when you lift yet another reason why it vibrates :roll:

[Damonski]

Interesting.. Im thinking about a 2" lift for mine,  ontop of the springs/shocks kit what other almost "hidden" costs are involved in doing the job?

Do all disco's that are lifted need the props changing ?

[Wanderer]

I only got the problems with mine while towing.

With a 2" lift and normal radius arms it was fine although the steering was "vague" (for want of a better word) due to the change in the castor angle. so I paid out for 3 degree castor correcting arms.
These then tip the axle back to near it's normal position but then it causes problems with the rear UJ on the front prop.
This UJ ends up doing all of the work as the front one is virtually straight.

It takes some getting your head around but the UJ oscillates due to the inside of the the Uj moving faster than the outside and it trying to even it out. A second UJ (double cardon joint) gets around this problem.

With mine there was a rumble when labouring in 5th gear on over run.
I even changed to another transfer box (Defender one) in case that might be the problem (Also because I wanted the gearing to match the bigger wheels but it would remove one thing).

HTH

[PUX]

ooo prop shafts  ](*,)  :lol:  yeah i have the same when in 5th gear so im defo going to get me a td5 prop.

[chuggaman]

i too have a double cardin prop

as advised by these members(thanks guys)

i have three inch lifted springs

plus 50mm spacers

scorpion castor corrected radius arms

and i tow regularly(3500 kg trailer)

i get a little rumble at low revs in high gears from the new front prop

before i put the spacers in and radius arms in i used a wide angle prop

this was fine until

i fitted new radius arms (big nasty grinding)

especially whilst letting off throttle

with a three inch lift and castor corrected radius arms a double cardon prop is a solution

as for the physics

i placed a wide angle prop on the floor

and a double cardon

i bent them both to their maximum at the top uj

the wide angle bent further by about 20 degrees than the double cardon

yet the cardon prop works better

dont ask me how


but it works


mike

[DISCO-CHRIS]

all i can say is tim speaks the truth......"anyone who tells you castor correction will cost you £200 is lyin, try £400 by the time you've paid for a double carden prop!".
very,very true words.

[Wanderer]

In theory it works because the DC splits the joint into two smaller angles.
A normal say 32 degree UJ will at a push do 32 degrees.
If it was the same sized DC joint then it can't get 16 degrees on each joint so ends up with less of a range.

On a DC propshaft the important part is the short length in between the two joints. It takes the oscillation out, well it dampens it.

I went down the wide angle joke path and wish I hadn't. Just waiting for my flange from the man at D 4x4 and I'll be set.

I am trying something different this weekend. I've refitted my 3 degree castor correcting arms (QT) and put my original 3" lift on to see if the extra inch might help the vibration.

After all the vibration is down to the axle being rolled back and it may improve with a 3" lift. I have been looking at the fact that 3 degrees of correction might be too much on a 2" lift.

We'll find out at the weekend.

It's fine solo but I need to test it while towing as towing a caravan makes it worse due to the extra weight and the engine on over run.

[Range Rover Blues]

Ed, bring some beer, we can discuss at length :D

[Budgie]

Ed, bring some beer, we can discuss at length :D

A crate should do it Ed, you must have see the length of some of his explanations!  :mrgreen:

[Wanderer]

The beer's packed.
We might have to extend the weekend by a few days :)

[barmiebrumie]

ok guy's i get the sience bit , now has anyone got a double cardin prop spare ? or who's the cheapest to get one from?, oh & enjoy the weekend while i'm stuck here working




John

[Budgie]

Devon 4x4 are about the cheapest for a new Genuine Land Rover Propshaft, you also need the TD5 transfer box output flange to go with it.

If you want to go second hand then try your local scrapyards or places like Equicar who deal mainly in second hand Land Rover parts.

They sometimes come up on Ebay but I've seen those sell for more that Devon are charging!!