Front Prop UJ (rear)

[robbie]

How easy are these to change?? Do you need complex hydraulic presses or will they just 'pop out' with a bit of persuasion??

And yes, the question is because mine has gone......... :(

[robbie]

Just been doing some digging, on Paddocks, it shows a 'replacement' UJ or a 'Hard Spicer' UJ. Anyone know what the difference will be?? If it is the rear one on the front prop, am I better doing both while it is off the car??

I recall the name Hardy Spicer from years ago but cant recall what it is in relation to the Prop and UJ. Is this the criss-cross bit in the middle??

[davidlandy]

Get a quality replacement like a GKN manufactuered one - it will cost you about the same price as 2 or 3 of the cheapo ones but it will last longer

been there done that got the tee shirt!

u dont need a press to get them out just a good vice, some circlip pliers , and selection of different size sockets to whack and do up in the vice, and a good hammer!!!

an easy diy job

[hobbit]

Hard spicer I think you will find are Hardy Spicer, if i recall are a good branded one, again may cost more but will be better wear on them

[ChrisW]

You should also replace the nuts and bolts between the diff/gearbox and either end of the prop.
Can't remember length but they are 9/16th UNF thread - nuts should be nyloc type. I can measure the set sitting on the centre console tomorrow as a result of a cold half hour underneath the car one night last week  

[robbie]

Thanks All, I will probably go for the Hardy Spicer ones cos I do recall them being the better ones.

The bolts are about £0.20 from Paddocks so nothing drastic......

Is it worth doing the front while I have the prop off??

AND IMPORTANTLY

Will the prop fit on the wrong way (back to front so to speak) and if so, does it make any difference.... I know I can mark it no probs, just curious

[ChrisW]

Yes do the front while it's off, for the sake of a couple of quid and another 20 minutes it'll save you in the long run  
The manuals etc talk about marking the prop and gearbox drive flange so the prop goes back in the same position it came off in - if it wasn't that important they wouldn't tell you to do it!

Don't forget the grease gun - the UJ's with a grease nipple are preferable to the non-grease nipple one's  

[s.stirley]

All good advice .. I'd only add pay attention to the phase of the UJs, not sure if it's possible to get them wrong on the front prop (I suspect not) - but if you do it will wobble horribly ! good luck

[Hissy]

Or you could just fit a Td5 front prop and transfer box output flange :roll:  :roll:

Just a thought :)  :)  :)  :)  :)

Cheers  Andy

[Range Rover Blues]

Aparently there is a small cast bip on the male spline casting that should line up with the blank spline on the female (in truth it's a breather spline to allow the propshaft to telescop without pumping itself up).

[muddysteve]

Mine hasnt got a missing spline? it does however have a cast tit on the sliding uj and and arrow stamped into the prop body which i assume should line up

looks ok to me but the proof will be once its fitted

Steve

[ChrisW]

I'd only add pay attention to the phase of the UJs, not sure if it's possible to get them wrong on the front prop

I believe it's only an issue if the front prop is physically split i.e. the inner sliding member from the outer - the yokes on the ends of the prop should be at 90 degrees to each other.

[muddysteve]

I'd only add pay attention to the phase of the UJs, not sure if it's possible to get them wrong on the front prop

I believe it's only an issue if the front prop is physically split i.e. the inner sliding member from the outer - the yokes on the ends of the prop should be at 90 degrees to each other.

2 brand new props recently fitted to my old disco the ujs were more or less in a straight line not 90 deg

Steve

[robbie]

OK, finally plucked up courage to get under the car and take the prop off cos it looked like it was going to be quite mild this morning, that was until I actually started to remove it, aand yes, the damned heavens opened, water rolling everywhere, still, finally got it off without too much bother.

However, there are now some more questions.... how on earth do you remove the rear bolts on the front flange  :?  The front bolts are fine, but no quick easy way to remove the rear ones. I will admit I didnt take too long to check cos it was not a nice place to be under a wet Disco . . . . .

The other thing I noticed while I was under there was a big round doughnut thing which seemed to be bolted onto the drivers side end of the sterring damper.... what on earth is it for    :?

[robbie]

Oh, and the rear UJ was absolutey... erm (trying to find a word to fit) ..... I guess it rhymes with bagged but might begin with sh . . . . . .

It is actually a wonder I had no notice of the failure sooner, I dont wuite understand this. part of the housing for the bearings have obviously been worn away too, suggesting a prolonged failure, yet there was no sign until the other week.....

Still, get the new bits one this week, reinstall the prop during the week and away we go :)

Soon be back on the road again

[Range Rover Blues]

The bolts on the gearbox flange are captive, you don't change them easily.

The doughnut is called a harmonic damper, the name kind of gives it away but they were introduced about the same time as the EFi which had bigger props.  Check that the isolating rubber is in good nick, if it's perished the damper doesn't work too well.