CV joints

[H]

well got the rangie into work havign gotten another CV joint, went to take the side off that had the old cv joint expecting it to be that side that had gone, due to a few complications last time namely replacing the wrong side with the new CV joint before taking off the other side and finding the truely blown CV the old working CV is in the side that had gone originally, so when another went I naturally went to that side nope was fine. opened up the other side to find the new one had destroyed itself.
Question is...... what would make a brand new CV joint destroy itself within 4 days (less than 200 miles)? (road use only)

[v8kenny]

Don't suppose it was one of these CV's that have cropped up in the Landy mags lately for about £30 ?

[H]

nope paid £45+ vat from a local recomended parts dealer seem to remember it being a brit parts one but could be confused with the one I fitted today which was from another local parts dealer.

H

ps both dealers seemed shocked at my K reg RRC having a HA chassis number, anyone explain why and is there likely to be some sort of shinangians in my trucks history  :?

[v8kenny]

GA is 1990 so maybe it just hung around for a wee while before first registration
I would be hopping up and down at wherever I got CV joint from if I was you - I always stick to GKN brand - dearer but worth it in the long run
Poor old CV's do a lot of work in a V8

[H]

want to establish it wasnt something I did wrong in the installation there off 1st before I got down the hopping up and down route...... the outer spacer ring on the inner shaft was split and bent open, fortunatly I work in a metal fabrication engineers and we happened to have some tube with the right OD and ID so manged to fabricate a time being replacement for that to get me home until I can get one.

H

[v8kenny]

Did you check the end float - no more than 25 thou
I assume CV joint had the ring of serrated teeth for ABS motor ?

[H]

no abs on mine , makes this snow interesting!

H

[Range Rover Blues]

If it's the non-abs axle then the Cv joint is different, more like the older RRC axles and you don't set the endfloat as I'm aware.

[H]

summat still wrong, could feel the steering pumping back at me when going round round abouts this evening :( gettign fed up of this now anyone any ideas its almost exactly 4 days again. Gonna be no cv joints left in Lancashire at this rate.

H

[Range Rover Blues]

That sounds an odd symptom, the steering thingy, but if you are sure it's another CV joint then I have to ask what sort of transfer box you've got, is it the B-W with a locked up viscous unit?  otherwise is the front diff seized?

[H]

That sounds an odd symptom, the steering thingy, but if you are sure it's another CV joint then I have to ask what sort of transfer box you've got, is it the B-W with a locked up viscous unit?  otherwise is the front diff seized?

good with cars but new to Land Rovers what would tell me what transfer box I have, dont think the diff is seized havent tested it today but yesterday when the symptons where only just starting and jacking up both sides seperatly you could rotate the wheel slightly (about 1/8th of a rotation) and both showed relative movement on the front prop shaft at the diff knuckle joint.  I only think its CV as I had this "feedback" before the 2 previous cv's blew. I dont know if feedback is a accureate description it feels like when you turning that someone else has hold of the wheel and is trying to turn it the other way as I've said I'm good with the spanners but at the moment I dont have much time or patience for it so I'm trying to exhaust suggestions before I just hand it to a gargage (either one near work or Steve Parker's in Whitworth and just get it fixed. cant afford a new cv every 4 days.

H

[Range Rover Blues]

If your high-low stick goes sideways and has lock/unlock then it's the earlier LT230 same as a Defender.  If it only goes H-N-L then it's the later Borg-Warner with viscous diff.  If you can turn the front wheel with the box in Neutral then all is ok, but 1/8 of a turn is the amount of backlash in the drivetrain so it sounds like the B-W.  You should be able to turn it further but VERY SLOWLY as the faster it turns the stiffer the viscous unit gets.  If it's stuck fast then this could be enough to bust a CV or driveshaft.

As a reference I can tighten wheelnuts against the stiffness of the viscous unit but if you lean on the wheel wrench the wheel will turn extremely slowly, I can also tighten propshaft nuts against the stiffness of the viscous unit.

As for the steering it sounds a little like the PAS pump belt is slipping, as it slips the power assistance fails and the steering becomes damned heavy and pulls hard to the centre, an intermittant slip would give you the snatching effect.  Make sure the belt is clean and quite tight.  As a help, when the PAS belt slips the alternator will also slow down as it drives from the PAS pulley (assuming a V8) not that you get much chance to look at the rev counter when you're struggling to steer.

[H]

Its the Borg Warner, I'll check on the belt , already have a replacment would make sence having recently replaced the alty, Still get worrying clunks from the front end on tighter turns though as if something is binding up and then releasing.

H

[Range Rover Blues]

Just check it's not you tyres hitting the radius arm on full lock.

[H]

nah its not the tyres know what they sound like  as they did rub till mot time then I ajdusted the bump stops so that they couldnt rub its definatly a mechanical metalic clunk.

H

[MuddyMike]

Did you completely strip the swivel housing down and clean out all the bits of the old CV joint. Bits of steel can hide in there and mess up the new one pretty quick.

Mike

[H]

had a latex glove on groping about in the grease pretty sure I got all of them but was late and cold and I wanted to get home to a pie and a pint, so I could of missed something in my rush, replaced the swivel housing bearing top and bottom both sides last week too would this require all the shims ptting back in on the top one or is there a correct metheod of establishing how many and what thickness?

H

[MuddyMike]

You need to remove the swivel housing completely and wash it out to ensure all the bits are out. If you replaced the swivel bearings you will need to re set the preload by adding or removing shims. You do this with a spring balence on the track rod connecting point with trak rods disconnected. I dont have the poundage to hand at present but could probably find out for you. I know here are two different settings one with swivel oil seal in place and a lower one without.

Mike

[MuddyMike]

Now have the pre-load figures
12 pounds with the seal in place
3-4 pounds with the seal out.

Mike

[Range Rover Blues]

OOhhh that's worth remembering as I'm going to re-check mine now it's been driven.

[Range Rover Blues]

its definatly a mechanical metalic clunk.

H

That doesn't sound good, just to try I locked up my rear diff on the road and in addition to having no steering the back end 'hops' on tight corners, it could be a diff that's causing it and/or busting the CV joints.

[H]

anyone know if the rear steering arm should be perfectly straight our bend up a little after the steering damper mount (running from n/s to o/s)

H

[Range Rover Blues]

You mean the track rod that connects the left and right wheels don't you? it should be straight.

[H]

yup thats the one, looks like I bent it slightly at Whitworth then, and its ducked my wheels  so that they are driving along like \----o--/  (diagram exagerated) I'll straighten it and get it tracked once I get her back together  tonight hopefully that will solve my woes, recon the latest CV went (hadnt gone completly was just notchy) due me rushing, when I stripped down the swivel housing last night I found fragments of the previous one in the grease. Gonna change my steering damper too as that looks like its taken a battering.

H

[Range Rover Blues]

Fingers crossed for you then, let's hope that fixes it for good.