Recovery Points

[Bush Tucker Man]

.de/new/oxid.php/sid/f75c3e25d70390d57754294854f7fbd8/cl/alist/cnid/a9940b456627bc856.03629816]These might be a bit excessive though :?  :lol:

[SteveG]

[quote="Bush Tucker Man]

It looks a very interesting solution  :-k
I take it that it has the threaded cross-member?? (captive nuts?)
Otherwise you've had the same problem as I've got (fuel tank)

Can I ask 2 questions please?
1. How far does it stand off the cross-member face?
2. How much are they?(haven't noticed them for sale)

My main concern is whether the upper-most bar on the Dixon-Bate framework will interfere with the loop on that[/quote]

I'll measure up and take some closer pics for you tomorrow. I'll also check the exact price, but I think itwas about 20-25 pounds.

I take my standard LR adjustable tow plate and rack off, takes about 5 mins to undo bolts and disconnect connector and bolt on ring. But I don't tow that often.

Have you also considered one of these..


this works with TD5 tank and crossmember.

Cheers

Steve

[Bush Tucker Man]

I'll measure up and take some closer pics for you tomorrow. I'll also check the exact price, but I think itwas about 20-25 pounds.

Have you also considered one of these.. this works with TD5 tank and crossmember.

Cheers

Steve

Thanks for the offer of measurements

I'd like to stick with the Dixon-Bate, as I often tow various trailers (& hence coupling heights)
I've had the W&H Wheelcarriers version on my old 90V8-CSW, it's an easy all-round solution, but not what I need.
Thanks for suggesting it

[Bush Tucker Man]

I've come up with a sort-term solution (still haven't got a BIG shackle)
I used the cross-member loop (part number below), spreader plate & a 1" tow-ball spacer to mount it to the spare slider.
The only real problems are;
1. To have the loop in the central position interferes with the mounting pin
2. The thread (& length) of the 'Loop' are matched to a cross-members depth, so the spacer is required.
If I could get it threaded further down & shortened, it would be preferable.

IIt's NRC5396 at £5.24 + VAT. You will also need the spreader plate for the other side, 562756 at £6.10 + VAT (yes, more than the loop!) and 2 nuts. I used Nyloc ones. Can't remember the thread size, but I'm sure it was metric.

Apologies for slight blurring/lack of colour saturation, but it was getting towards dusk.

[Bush Tucker Man]

I could however do with someone with a lathe, to thread the length of the cross-member section of the 'Loop', then I could cut down the thread to a minumum & dispense with the 1" spacer

That's if it'd fit in the holding section of a lathe

[karloss]

That's if it'd fit in the holding section of a lathe

I'd be very surprised if it did.
M16 die nut is what you need. Just run it down with a ratchet and a socket (carefully with plenty of lubrication), you might like to find someone who will lend you one as buying one that size wont be cheap for just one use.

[Bush Tucker Man]

I'd be very surprised if it did.
M16 die nut is what you need. Just run it down with a ratchet and a socket (carefully with plenty of lubrication), you might like to find someone who will lend you one as buying one that size wont be cheap for just one use.

Without wishing to sound 'daft', but how do i use a socket on something that has a length of about 5".
Are ratcheting die holders available??, as you can't turn the handle far enough on a normal die-holder, or I'd have got the father-in-law to do it at the bus garage

[Xtremeteam]

I'd be very surprised if it did.
M16 die nut is what you need. Just run it down with a ratchet and a socket (carefully with plenty of lubrication), you might like to find someone who will lend you one as buying one that size wont be cheap for just one use.

Without wishing to sound 'daft', but how do i use a socket on something that has a length of about 5".
Are ratcheting die holders available??, as you can't turn the handle far enough on a normal die-holder, or I'd have got the father-in-law to do it at the bus garage

hold the loop section in a vice & wind the die nut down with a suitable sized socket & ratchet

[Bush Tucker Man]

hold the loop section in a vice & wind the die nut down with a suitable sized socket & ratchet

Yes, but my point is/was;
If I use a ratchet, with a socket. How does it cope with the threaded section, unless cut-down first, surely the ratchet 1/2" drive will prevent much of the sockets travel :?

Or are Die-Nuts very deep??

[defenderdan]

Will a spanner not do the job?

[karloss]

Will a spanner not do the job?

It will mate yes.
A die nut is as it's description Richard. It's just the same size and shape as a normal nut but has the cutting teeth of a proper die. They are really only for cleaning threads up but you'll cut that with one no bother.

[Bush Tucker Man]

I finally got a shackle drilled out.
I've been meaning to take one into the Engineers workshop in our Estates Services.

It ended up being mounted in the chuck of a Lathe & done that way.
Also, it took almost 15minutes to drill it through :shock: , pretty damn tough casting/forging then?(with stops to check depth & spray on lubricant)


For mounting in this position, I'll have to forgo a big shackle as there's insufficient clearance to allow for the 'head' between the securing (through) pin & the rear-face

[timberdog]

Tucker i should edit that number or someone could be borrowing it for other means

Nice Rings 8)

[Bush Tucker Man]

Tucker i should edit that number or someone could be borrowing it for other means

????? :?
Pardon?

[timberdog]

Page 1 of thread ya number plate

[bullfrog]

Better still a rachet spanner !
Yes you could cut off some of the "excess" first leaving enough to start the dye, Then cut a bit more and so on untill you have the amount threaded.
I take it the thread does not go upto the stop then as you could simply cut off the excess to do away with the spacer. You could just sleeve the extra bit and do away with the full width spacer.
Would still stick out that far but look neater.
Why not just cut and weld the hoop to the spare plate ?
Job done !