AuthorTopic: rear cross member replacement  (Read 6929 times)

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Offline Matt_H

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rear cross member replacement
« on: January 21, 2006, 18:23:56 »
picked up my new 90 :-)  rear cross member needs replacing (which I knew about in advance of buying!)..

Is it a stragith forward home job (I'm ok with a welder) or is it easier to get a professional to do it (one fo those jobs that takes practise?).. Any idea on costs?

Matthew

Offline snezza69

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rear cross member replacement
« Reply #1 on: January 21, 2006, 18:28:59 »
I just replaced my x member on a 110.  Not difficult at all, reasonable with a welder but I did have the body off.  I think you will be looking at just over a ton for the replacement part (I got mine from Paddocks)

Hope that helps,
Snezza69

I wish this project would just hurry up and finish!

But I don't think it will if I keep making simple mistakes

Offline Matt_H

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rear cross member replacement
« Reply #2 on: January 21, 2006, 18:35:35 »
I'm guessing you have to weld the top edges then?

I guess it's one of those thigns that if you've done before it may be much easier - I can't see a prof taking more than 4 hours so that's aroudn £100-£150 labour.. may leave this one to the pros then!  I can see it taking me an entire weekend!

Matthew

Offline snezza69

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rear cross member replacement
« Reply #3 on: January 21, 2006, 19:07:29 »
It should be an easy job for a weekend.  I would think you have to weld the top edge for safety reasons, but if you get a replacement with the legs I think the 90 rails drop down in an arc so this should be straight forward.  Loads of people have done this before you should do a search for other strings first.
Snezza69

I wish this project would just hurry up and finish!

But I don't think it will if I keep making simple mistakes

Offline Matt_H

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rear cross member replacement
« Reply #4 on: January 21, 2006, 19:53:39 »
i guess the next stupid question is how the tub can be removed - is it simple bolt on or is it connected to bulk head and drivers area?

Matthew

Offline muddyweb

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rear cross member replacement
« Reply #5 on: January 21, 2006, 20:16:48 »
Don't remove the tub, leave it on there to help you align the cross member.

Cut a couple of holes in the rear floor above the chassis for welding access and then make up some covers to put back in.
Tim Burt
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Offline muddysteve

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rear cross member replacement
« Reply #6 on: January 21, 2006, 20:19:38 »
and try not to set fire to it this time  :wink:


Steve
Steve                www.lanerovers.co.uk    www.surreyoffroaders.co.uk

Offline davidlandy

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rear cross member replacement
« Reply #7 on: January 21, 2006, 20:21:23 »
we welded one in not long ago to a 90 and didnt remove the tub - as Tim says the holes help you line it all up.

we also drilled thru the old chassis and bolted it on first then welded around the edges. belt and braces!

took about 6 hrs, but 4 if you have a decent drill bit!
Dave
Sniff, sniff, this mud smells funny

Offline Matt_H

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rear cross member replacement
« Reply #8 on: January 21, 2006, 20:49:02 »
well it all sounds pretty straight forward... I'll have the fire extinguisher on hand this time!

Custom inspection covers seems like a good idea!

I noticed paddocks sell two different kinds, one which is described as 'basic' and one which has extensions.. Would I be right in thinking the one with extensions is so you can chop more of the original chasis legs out?

Your help as always very much appreciated!

Matthew

Offline davidlandy

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rear cross member replacement
« Reply #9 on: January 21, 2006, 21:05:29 »
get the one with extensions
Dave
Sniff, sniff, this mud smells funny

Offline Matt_H

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rear cross member replacement
« Reply #10 on: January 22, 2006, 10:25:59 »
if I'm buying a new rear x-member anyway - can you a rear x-member with built in winch tray?

Matthew

Offline j99mud

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rear cross member replacement
« Reply #11 on: January 22, 2006, 10:53:22 »
i just had my cross member replaced you are about right with the price of the part about £100 but the total job cost £617 , :cry: labour is lots but they did a fantastic job and waxoyled all the new stuff for me too

Offline TechnoTurkey

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rear cross member replacement
« Reply #12 on: January 22, 2006, 13:15:18 »
Need to get mine replaced soon as well, I'll add it to the list of jobs!

Mine is a truck cab but i havent seen any cross members with the little bits that the rear door hinges down on?
2007 Honda Civic Type R GT
1982 VW Camper - Current Project
1991 Pajero SWB 2.5TD - SOLD
1990 Range Rover Vouge 3.9 V8 - SCRAPPED
1989 110 3.5 V8 CSW - SOLD
1984 Series 3, Ex MoD, 109 SOLD
1986 90 2.5D Pick Up - SOLD

Offline muddyweb

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rear cross member replacement
« Reply #13 on: January 22, 2006, 15:47:50 »
Quote from: "Matt_H"
if I'm buying a new rear x-member anyway - can you a rear x-member with built in winch tray?


Yes you can.. but they ain't cheap ;-)
Tim Burt
Muddyweb
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Offline Matt_H

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rear cross member replacement
« Reply #14 on: January 22, 2006, 18:27:03 »
Quote from: "muddyweb"
Quote from: "Matt_H"
if I'm buying a new rear x-member anyway - can you a rear x-member with built in winch tray?


Yes you can.. but they ain't cheap ;-)


define aint cheep!  or have you got any links?

Got a X9 superwinch going spare now :-)

Matthew

Offline speedfreak

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rear cross member replacement
« Reply #15 on: January 23, 2006, 17:01:47 »
Quote from: "TechnoTurkey"
Need to get mine replaced soon as well, I'll add it to the list of jobs!

Mine is a truck cab but i havent seen any cross members with the little bits that the rear door hinges down on?



Thats because the brackets that hold the tailgate hinges bolt onto the Defender rear crossmember...
300 tdi Defender money pit
MG ZS 180 V6

Offline Matt_H

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rear cross member replacement
« Reply #16 on: January 23, 2006, 17:45:34 »
well i had a chat with safari, the main guy wasn't there so prices are guide only
£150 for cross member
£300 for heavy duty winch tray version

£300 labour

Ok £300 is a lot, but I know they will do it well, they've got a lift so can get all the access, they've done it a million times and don't cut any holes etc.

I am really tempted to do it myself, but I think I'd always be looking over my shoulder when towing, to make sure the lot was still attached!

Happy to practise on somenoe elses though ;-)

May as well get them to do the timing belt at the same time and just hand over the CC.  :shock:

Matthew

Offline TechnoTurkey

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rear cross member replacement
« Reply #17 on: January 24, 2006, 13:16:49 »
"Thats because the brackets that hold the tailgate hinges bolt onto the Defender rear crossmember..."

They appear to be welded onto mine, looks neat enough to be factory I thought.
2007 Honda Civic Type R GT
1982 VW Camper - Current Project
1991 Pajero SWB 2.5TD - SOLD
1990 Range Rover Vouge 3.9 V8 - SCRAPPED
1989 110 3.5 V8 CSW - SOLD
1984 Series 3, Ex MoD, 109 SOLD
1986 90 2.5D Pick Up - SOLD

 






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