AuthorTopic: slave cylinder replacement  (Read 1681 times)

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Offline Discotel

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slave cylinder replacement
« on: January 27, 2006, 17:49:33 »
Hi all,

I have got a quick question for you...I have noticed that there is a fair old leak from the drain hole on the bell housing next to the slave cylinder, and every 3 hours I need to bleed my clutch on the Disco1. It has a new master cylinder fitted so does that mean it is the slave that has gone..!..Once it is bled I have clutch for about 3 hrs then the fluid leaks out and its gone again...I presume you can buy gasket kits/seal kits for them but maybe it is better to buy the unit itself at £28 + vat.

Regards, Terry

Offline Discotel

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« Reply #1 on: January 27, 2006, 17:53:25 »
Also as I have fitted a 2' lift to the D1, should I remove the front anti roll bar as people say it counter acts the lift..!..It is not a road legal car and is on a trailer so no legal requirements.

Offline Richie_EB4

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Re: slave cylinder replacement
« Reply #2 on: January 27, 2006, 20:33:16 »
Quote from: "Discotel"
Hi all,

I have got a quick question for you...I have noticed that there is a fair old leak from the drain hole on the bell housing next to the slave cylinder, and every 3 hours I need to bleed my clutch on the Disco1. It has a new master cylinder fitted so does that mean it is the slave that has gone..!..Once it is bled I have clutch for about 3 hrs then the fluid leaks out and its gone again...I presume you can buy gasket kits/seal kits for them but maybe it is better to buy the unit itself at £28 + vat.

Regards, Terry


Yeah..........sounds like its leaking inside.........a friends did that but he had wadeing plugs in and the first he knew was the clutch started to slip bad........always better to put a new unit on.
Where there is mud there will be someone stuck.........then the fun begins

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Offline Richie_EB4

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« Reply #3 on: January 27, 2006, 20:34:39 »
Quote from: "Discotel"
Also as I have fitted a 2' lift to the D1, should I remove the front anti roll bar as people say it counter acts the lift..!..It is not a road legal car and is on a trailer so no legal requirements.


IMO.......first thing you should do if taking it off road.........and if its not fitted when you take em for an MOT then its one less thing for them to fail it on :wink:
Where there is mud there will be someone stuck.........then the fun begins

Owner www.4x4lrs.com

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Defender TD5...K88 MUD
2" lift
Mach 5 rims with 33/12.5/16's
Mile marker H12 with 9.5mm Plasma rope
Steering Guard and front and rear diff guards
Safari Snorkel and roof light bar.

Offline Skywalker

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« Reply #4 on: January 27, 2006, 22:12:29 »
Is the leak you have like this one



Dave
WIP ........ just Keeps Changing .......

SW

Offline Richie_EB4

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« Reply #5 on: January 28, 2006, 08:17:35 »
Mine has a leak like that bu its black oil  :? .......something to do with the engine i think LOL
Where there is mud there will be someone stuck.........then the fun begins

Owner www.4x4lrs.com

Administrator  www.4x4uk.org

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Defender TD5...K88 MUD
2" lift
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Mile marker H12 with 9.5mm Plasma rope
Steering Guard and front and rear diff guards
Safari Snorkel and roof light bar.

Offline Skywalker

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« Reply #6 on: January 28, 2006, 09:12:58 »
The oil will most likely be leaking from the rear crankshaft oil seal, if the wading plug is left in the clutch will get contaminated with oil and slip.  

You won't get brake fluid coming out of the bell housing, so that's a different problem.  Sometimes a slave cylinder can be repaired with a new seal kit, take it off and have a look, if the seals are perished or look "naff" you could  try a kit; if the bore of the cylinder is scratched it'll need a new cylinder.

Dave.
WIP ........ just Keeps Changing .......

SW

Offline Richie_EB4

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« Reply #7 on: January 28, 2006, 09:17:37 »
Quote
You won't get brake fluid coming out of the bell housing, so that's a different problem.


Im sure you will as the end of the slave cylinder is inside the bell housing.
Where there is mud there will be someone stuck.........then the fun begins

Owner www.4x4lrs.com

Administrator  www.4x4uk.org

4x4RNE Commitee member www.4x4RNE.co.uk

Defender TD5...K88 MUD
2" lift
Mach 5 rims with 33/12.5/16's
Mile marker H12 with 9.5mm Plasma rope
Steering Guard and front and rear diff guards
Safari Snorkel and roof light bar.

Offline Discotel

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« Reply #8 on: January 28, 2006, 10:05:35 »
Hi all, thanks for the replys, it must be the slave cylinder as it is losing fluid and it is running out of the bell hounsing, I think it is the bell housing anyway, plus as soon as I bleed it the clutch is ok, until it starts leaking again. I am going to change it today anyway so thanks for the advice guys

If any of you are going over Bures tomoz I will see you there, I will be in a G reg Disco1 3dr in red.

Thanks, Terry

Offline Skywalker

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« Reply #9 on: January 28, 2006, 18:43:57 »
Quote from: "Richie_EB4"
Quote
You won't get brake fluid coming out of the bell housing, so that's a different problem.


Im sure you will as the end of the slave cylinder is inside the bell housing.


Dead right Richie, so it does, that'll teach me to rely on memory  :oops:    I'm obviously stepping back in time to some of mi' older motors  :shock:

Having had a crawl under the lad's Defender today there' a liberal coating of every known LandRover fluid, methinks I'll be doing more than clutch cylinder.  Better start reading the manual.

Best of luck with the Slave Cylinder Discotel, hope it solves the problem.

Dave
WIP ........ just Keeps Changing .......

SW

Offline Discotel

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« Reply #10 on: January 28, 2006, 19:16:52 »
Good News, I replaced the slave today and touch wood it seems to have cured the problem and the leak, it was a little tricky to do as there is a small inlet pipe to undo and move out the way but got there in the end, took around 1hr 30mins including bleeding so not bad really, will know tomoz for sure if the leak has stopped but looks good at the moment.

Also I took off the Panard rod the other day and it is a [!Expletive Deleted!] to get back on because I have fitted a 2' lift kit it will not line up on the drivers side as the longer springs force it down.

Is the only way to get it back on to remove the spring and jack up the axle to line it up...!..Any help here would save me some time and energy.

Terry

Offline Richie_EB4

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« Reply #11 on: January 28, 2006, 19:29:46 »
I use a truck rachet strap to pull al back into line.
Where there is mud there will be someone stuck.........then the fun begins

Owner www.4x4lrs.com

Administrator  www.4x4uk.org

4x4RNE Commitee member www.4x4RNE.co.uk

Defender TD5...K88 MUD
2" lift
Mach 5 rims with 33/12.5/16's
Mile marker H12 with 9.5mm Plasma rope
Steering Guard and front and rear diff guards
Safari Snorkel and roof light bar.

Offline Xtremeteam

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slave cylinder replacement
« Reply #12 on: January 28, 2006, 20:01:52 »
Quote from: "Discotel"
Good News, I replaced the slave today and touch wood it seems to have cured the problem and the leak, it was a little tricky to do as there is a small inlet pipe to undo and move out the way but got there in the end, took around 1hr 30mins including bleeding so not bad really, will know tomoz for sure if the leak has stopped but looks good at the moment.

Also I took off the Panard rod the other day and it is a !Expletive Deleted! to get back on because I have fitted a 2' lift kit it will not line up on the drivers side as the longer springs force it down.

Is the only way to get it back on to remove the spring and jack up the axle to line it up...!..Any help here would save me some time and energy.

Terry

i dont quite understand the problem,put the panhard rod in the hole on the axle & put the bolt through then get some1 tp push or pull the body to get the other hole to line up
Mike
I can Drive.. You can criticize..
I too can criticize like you.. but can you Drive like me??


Offline Discotel

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« Reply #13 on: January 28, 2006, 21:10:11 »
The problem is the lift has forced the location bracket down about 3' and to the right so it does not line up with the bracket on the axle, I think I may have to take out the drivers side spring and ratchet strap it into place, or can it be done with the spring in situ.

Terry

Offline Xtremeteam

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« Reply #14 on: January 28, 2006, 21:14:33 »
put the wheels back on & lower it down onto the ground so the vehicles weight is onit then try puting the panhard rod in
Mike
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Offline Discotel

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« Reply #15 on: January 29, 2006, 19:28:51 »
Thats the problem, it dont line up when the vehicle is on the ground, the locating bracket is about 3' higher than the axle and a little to the right, I think the only way of doing it is to take out the drivers spring and jack/ratchet strap it into place.

Terry

Offline Xtremeteam

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« Reply #16 on: January 29, 2006, 20:36:15 »
can you take a pic as i cant see in my mind how it can be 3 inchs out
Mike
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Offline Discotel

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« Reply #17 on: February 01, 2006, 21:29:40 »
Hi Mike, Guess what a tit I feel, I see what you mean about the panard rod now, stupid me was trying to line it up with the bracket where the other end would attach if it were LHD.. :oops:

Offline Xtremeteam

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« Reply #18 on: February 01, 2006, 21:36:51 »
Quote from: "Discotel"
Hi Mike, Guess what a tit I feel, I see what you mean about the panard rod now, stupid me was trying to line it up with the bracket where the other end would attach if it were LHD.. :oops:
:(biglaugh): :(biglaugh): :(biglaugh): :(biglaugh):
Mike
I can Drive.. You can criticize..
I too can criticize like you.. but can you Drive like me??


 






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