Frame sizes are still as far as I know (or ought to be) either
Centre to Centre
Centre to Top
That is to say, the centre line of the Bottom Bracket spindle (the axle in the shell at the Seat Tube & Down Tube) to the top (or centre-line) of the Top-Tube (cross-bar for the non-cyclists amongst you
)
If it's a sloping Top-Tube, ie Giant, consult the shop
My
Pace had a sloping Top-Tube, but it measured as a 16" C-C measurement & had a ideal length Top-Tube.
On the road I usually ride a 54.5cm C-C, that's what my titanium Dyna-Tech is.
For MTB racing I used the same position as on the road (even down to handle-bar height)
Cyclo-Cross, I lowered the saddle by 1cm, it helped for running dismounts & remounting
Seat height ought to be set by the knee-angle, practically straight at full extension (without rocking the pelvis when pedalling
One thing that is equally important as the Seat-Tube length, is the saddle set-back.
Ideally for the most efficient position, the kneecap (with cranks hoizontal) ought to fall a couple of MM's behind the pedal spindle.
I wish I could justify a
Trek Madone to SWMBO, it'd give me an incentive to start riding again :D