Wheel Bearing/Hub Bearing

[Discotel]

Hi All,

On inspection today I have noticed that the drivers side wheel had a hell of a lot of play in it, I removed the wheel and to my horror I noticed that ALL that was holding the wheel on was the centre circlip and the brake caliper. This is due to the inner wheel bearing being massed up beyond belief and the outter bearing being very loose.

I have removed all the bits except for the inner race of the inner bearing which is stuck on the CV joint, I am going to try a blow torch on it tomoz so with a bit of luck this should do the job. I have bought a new bearing set to put on so will keep you posted.

Also, I had some brake pads fitted by a garage about 4 weeks ago, and from what I can see they are only held in by the two split pins and NOTHING else, I can shake them sround alot when they are in situ, this cant be right surely..!

Terry

[Richie_EB4]

Good luck with the blow torch.......they normaly weld themselfs to the stub axle..........the brake pads are held in with what looks like split pins.

[dazzawhipple]

The brake pads are held in with a split pin and spring plates the pads shouldn't move that much....

Post a picture

Darren

[Discotel]

Hi mate, Yes the pins are there but that cant be ALL that holds them in, there are clips on the back pads as well as pins, but just pins on the front.

The stub axle, thats the shiney silver bit sticking out of the hub housing with the half shaft in the middle, I thought that was the CV joint..!..Silly me

Terry

[clbarclay]

Its very common to secure brake pads with split pins. When using the brakes all the forces on the pads are sideways into the disc and caliper, so all the pins do is stop the pads falling out.

There should laso be a couple of sring plates between the pads and the pins.

[Discotel]

Thanks guys, but there are no clips or springs in there, this is why the pads are moving about I think. I bought the pads from paddocks and they tell me they are the right ones. I am taking it back to the garage this week who fitted them as I think they are a danger, they move around by about 10mm in all directons...!

[Budgie]

There are a few fixings for the front pads on the Disco, mine has two pins (not spit pins) with a spring that goes over the pins and site between the two pads, holding them apart.  

If you're not happy with them then just order a new fixing kit, they don't cost much, and make sure you have you chassis number when ordering.  

If your inner wheel bearing is stuck on the stub axle then it's likely that it will have scored the bearing surface on the stub axle, in which case you will need a new one.  :(
If you just clean up the the old one and fit new bearings then you stand a good chance that the inner bearing will weld itself to the stub axle again in a very short space of time.  :?

As this one has gone then it may be a good time to check the over three sets of bearings to make sure that they are well packed with grease and check them for play.  

[Tyke]

The springs and clips holding the pads are not actually necessary. No harm will come about by not fitting them . . . . except maybe a bit of pad rattle . . . . which can be annoying and lead you to suspect something is wrong somewhere else.

I had a rattle and it took me ages to suss out it was the pads. There was so much crud on the brakes that I couldn't move the pads by hand, but once I was off road the rattle appeared very noticably. I would fit the springs and clips if I was you, just for peace of mind.

As for wheel bearings and stub axles . . . . . been there and done that on another vehicle and was quoted over a grand for a complete new axle to sort it. At least the Land Rover ones are repairable.

[Leigh]

Did my bearings last week and had the same problem. I found using a blow torch didn't do the job so ended up cutting it off. End result was a badly scored stub axle but managed to get a new one for 30+vat

Putting it back together is so easy compared to trying to get that race off

[Discotel]

Right, I have finally put it all back together..I had to gas axe the race off int the end, cleaned up a treat with some emery cloth. I have drove the disco up and down the car park and around the yard at work  but the real test will come on Monday when I drive the 20 miles home. It feels ok and there are no funny noises which I assume is a good thing.

I have the dreaded MOT on Tuesday so watch this space for the result, I know it will fail but its a question of on what it will fail.

Terry

[Discotel]

Well the day finally came on Tuesday last week, the dreaded MOT....I took it to the garage after I done the wheel bearing and just prayed for the best, I knew it would fail it was just a question of damage limitation.......

I rang the garage late afternoon and got told that it was quite bad, the list was long and they needed time to price the work, well I felt down and like a part of me had died, anyway I rang back an hour later and spoke to the guy who MOT'ED her and the result is below.

Drag Link £9
Track Rod End £9
Brake Pipe Burst On Rear £12
Number Plate Bulb 50p
Patch Of Welding On Inner Wing 3'' Long £70
Spilt Middle Exhaust Section.

I already had the exhaust ready to fit in the motor, so the outcome was £226 for parts, all the work, MOT test AND for an oil + Filter change....I AM WELL CHUFFED. :D ..AS I expected it to be around £600 from what the guy first told me, not bad for a Disco used EVERY DAY and 175K on the clock.  :D....Thanks for the advice guys.