Toolbay.biz (IIRC)
It'll be a Laser brand, BUT - depending on your half shafts, it might not be deep enough to reach the inner nut! However, it is usually the outer nut that causes the issues anyway (see below!). As a bnous it fits a 1/2" drive an' all! 8)
Here's a couple of snippets I've learned along the way,
1) Whilst you can undo the nut with a chisel, it ain't recommended - and please don't do it all up afterwards with the same technique. I've had to do it once as an emergancy measure and now always carry the box spanner instead.
2) Don't buy the really cheap lock washers - they corrode onto the nuts and make them very, very hard to undo.
Experience speaking here........
3) Although the socket is 'impactable' - don't use a rattle gun to loosen or tighten either of the nuts - it will destroy the bearings before you even get rolling!
4) To adjust the bearings - tighten up the inner nut fairly tightly, then slacken it off about 1/8th of a turn (until the wheel rotates freely, but still doesn't show any slack when tugged about). Put on the lock washer and tighten the second nut all the way - recheck to ensure free rotation without any detectable slack. If it's now too tight, take the outer nut and lockwasher off and redo the inner nut. Only once you're happy with it all do you bend the washer to lock it all up. Bending the washer before you've checked it all can make life expensive on lock washers :lol: (speaking from experience here!).
5) If changing bearings, you can beat the old bearings out with a good cold-chiesel or punch (but watch out for scoring the faces of the hub). You can use the old bearing shells as a drift when beating the new shells in (very carefully, with a hammer). The old shells will sit quite firmly into the bearing faces, but these can be beaten back out again with the same cold cheisel you used earlier.
With three Landies in the house (including the racer) - you get some good practice at adjusting bearings! :lol:
Hope some of this is usefull!
cheers
8)
Eeyore
