AuthorTopic: suspension lift  (Read 4460 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline disco-v8

  • Posts: 286
  • Attack: 100
    Defense: 100
    Attack Member
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Referrals: 0
suspension lift
« on: June 30, 2006, 02:22:37 »
ok im after a 2inch lift from some BFG tyres , then i was going to get another lift from the suspension......

the only problem is, i havent a clue on what to get??????


ive seen some kits that just include the shocks and the springs, but i dont no if will be good enough....

basiclay im looking for asmuch help and information as possible as im sure all you great people can help me out
I LOVE MUD!!!!!! but my engine doesnt


Offline Budgie

  • Regional Rep
  • *
  • Posts: 2217
  • Attack: 100
    Defense: 100
    Attack Member
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • This post is best viewed on a computer.
    • Lochaber
  • Referrals: 0
suspension lift
« Reply #1 on: June 30, 2006, 02:47:51 »
First off I think I would do it the other way round: Suspension first then the tyres, just in case the tyres you get look too small once the suspension has been done!  :wink:

For the suspension, all you really need is the springs, shocks & extended front & rear brake flexies - maybe dislocation cones if you really want them but they can be added later.
Once the lift is done you can then see how much space you have for the new tyres and judge what size tyres are going to give you what you want.
You may find that on full articulation the tyres catch the edge of the wheel arches and may have to trim some off. Do a search on "Camel Cut" to see what's involved.  :wink:

Once the suspension & tyres are fitted then drive it for a while to see how it handles. The steering may feel a little loose and tend to follow the lines in the road, this is normal. By lifting the suspension you have altered the caster angle of the front axle & to correct this will cost over £200 for a pair of corrected radius arms. So make sure you need them before you buy!!
If you've got anti-roll bars then either remove them or you need 2" spacers under the chassis mount, 2" alloy towbar spacers work well, to stop them turning over.

That should get you started, for more info then try searching the subject. There are loads of posts about this on here.  :D

Offline Bulli

  • Posts: 1694
  • Attack: 100
    Defense: 100
    Attack Member
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Referrals: 0
suspension lift
« Reply #2 on: June 30, 2006, 08:34:34 »
pm sent, im not a million miles from you and have nearly everything you want sat in the garage. Give me a buzz
EFILNIKCUFECIN
Disco V8 3 dr - THROW ME A FRICKIN' BONE HERE.
3 link, lockers and 35's- NUFF said

Offline disco-v8

  • Posts: 286
  • Attack: 100
    Defense: 100
    Attack Member
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Referrals: 0
suspension lift
« Reply #3 on: June 30, 2006, 13:03:34 »
nice one bully!!!!


well the tyres im after are 265/75 r16 which if seen on other peoples motors and they look fine with a suspension lift aswell.....

are you definatly sure that all i need is basicaly the springs and shocks, because if seen some exspensive kits that have the whole works included in them........

..... well i want my disco used as a road car as well as an offraod car, so didnt really want to go too extreme with the mods, so didnt realy want dislocating cones or to get rid of my anti role bars


will a 2 inch suspension lift be fine??? and what else will it do to the handling, stearing of the car???? will it also make the tyres where differently????   keep the info coming its all good stuff
I LOVE MUD!!!!!! but my engine doesnt


Offline Budgie

  • Regional Rep
  • *
  • Posts: 2217
  • Attack: 100
    Defense: 100
    Attack Member
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • This post is best viewed on a computer.
    • Lochaber
  • Referrals: 0
suspension lift
« Reply #4 on: June 30, 2006, 18:52:42 »
265x75R16's will be fine with a +2" lift although the extra width of the tyres will restrict your turning circle ( the tyres will hit the radius arms before you reach the limits of the steering ) so you'll need to adjust the steering stops on the front swivels.

Plan what you want to do in the future - if you're thinking of fitting a winch & H/D bumper then the front springs need to be of a higher rating otherwise the front will droop when the winch is fitted. If you plan for it now then it saves ou having to uprate the front springs when you get the winch.  :wink:

You can go really wild with the suspension if you want, it's all up to you and the money you have available.
I've gone with a +3" lift, 33" tyres, fitted wheelarch flares to allow room for the tyres, wheel spacers to keep the standard turning circle, fitted corrected radius arms & modified trailing arms, changed the transfer box for one from a TD5 Defender to cope with the large diameter tyres as the gear ratios are more suitable, fitted a double cardan front propshaft because of the angles the front diff is now working at...............................it can just go on & on.  :?

I must add that this has been done over six years and some things didn't work or I wasn't happy with the result, money and time has been wasted by not planning!!

This is what it looks like now and Bully has gone even further!!  :D  


Offline Bulli

  • Posts: 1694
  • Attack: 100
    Defense: 100
    Attack Member
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Referrals: 0
suspension lift
« Reply #5 on: June 30, 2006, 20:30:40 »
Cheers Budgie, you live in a nicer spot...though it must cost you more to get to Langdale :shock:
You need to do the brake lines for safety's sake, like anything its horses for courses but personally i think you have to do dislocation to get the best from your set up. It doesnt make any difference on the road but it helps loads off it!
EFILNIKCUFECIN
Disco V8 3 dr - THROW ME A FRICKIN' BONE HERE.
3 link, lockers and 35's- NUFF said

Offline Budgie

  • Regional Rep
  • *
  • Posts: 2217
  • Attack: 100
    Defense: 100
    Attack Member
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • This post is best viewed on a computer.
    • Lochaber
  • Referrals: 0
suspension lift
« Reply #6 on: June 30, 2006, 21:37:35 »
Quote from: "Bulli"
Cheers Budgie, you live in a nicer spot...though it must cost you more to get to Langdale :shock:


Yep, over £120 just to get to the mainland let alone the 400+ miles to Langdale.
We don't get down there that often but it's good fun when we do!!  :wink:


Offline andygod

  • Regional Rep
  • *
  • Posts: 785
  • Attack: 100
    Defense: 100
    Attack Member
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Birmingham and surrounding areas regional Rep
  • Referrals: 0
2" lift
« Reply #7 on: June 30, 2006, 22:54:36 »
disco-v8

I purchased a 2" lift including yellow springs and pro comp shocks. Next I fitted 235  85  16 mud tyres. Before I fitted these I used to get stuck nearly every time I went off roading. Since fitting I manage more severe terrain without getting stuck. I had to trim the rear wheel arches but that was all. I have popped the rear springs out on about 3 occasions and I am now fitting rear dislocation cones and will fit extended break hoses after that. If like me you want to do your lift in stages start with the springs and shocks and do the other things in order.

Yo ho ho and a bottle of rum and jolly bad eggs are we

Offline Bulli

  • Posts: 1694
  • Attack: 100
    Defense: 100
    Attack Member
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Referrals: 0
suspension lift
« Reply #8 on: June 30, 2006, 23:05:09 »
Yup, do it at a pace that suits you,

Budgie heres one from Langdale...everyone blasted through to avoid getting stuck...i did it at tickover :wink:
EFILNIKCUFECIN
Disco V8 3 dr - THROW ME A FRICKIN' BONE HERE.
3 link, lockers and 35's- NUFF said

Offline Range Rover Blues

  • Moderator
  • ***
  • Posts: 15218
  • Attack: 100
    Defense: 100
    Attack Member
  • Karma: +3/-0
    • South Yorkshire
  • Referrals: 0
suspension lift
« Reply #9 on: July 01, 2006, 03:30:12 »
To sort the car out properly then the springs and shocks are only the start of things.  Given you are looking at 4 new tyres as well I'd say you need to be prepared to spend around £1200 on that car.

Of course if you only off-road you don't need castor correction, but as you've got used to driving the car now it will probably feel pretty awful once you have lifted it.

Mine's now lifted properly, with most of the suspension re-engineered to cope with the lift,

QT front arms, £200
Gwenn Lewis rear arms, £130
TD5 prop, I'd gues you are looking £150, plus £30 flange to fit it
Brake lines, no more than £70 if you've got DC callipers, less if they are SC
Bump stops, £7.50 each I think for +1.5" poly
Then your springs and dampers/lowered mounts
and your tyres.

Plus a parachute for the girlfriend to get out again.

Oh and the ARB spacers, £5.50 a pair.  You need to space the rear one to stop it inverting when you get articulated, the front one needs spacing just to avoid the prop.

I'd also suggest you increase your maintenance on the propshaft UJs as they start to work harder, don't be surprised if well used UJs pack up shortly after installing a lift.
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

Offline Colin 009

  • Posts: 2303
  • Attack: 100
    Defense: 100
    Attack Member
  • Karma: +0/-0
    • High Wycombe
  • Referrals: 0
suspension lift
« Reply #10 on: July 30, 2006, 18:16:09 »
Quote from: "Range Rover Blues"
To sort the car out properly then the springs and shocks are only the start of things.  Given you are looking at 4 new tyres as well I'd say you need to be prepared to spend around £1200 on that car.

Of course if you only off-road you don't need castor correction, but as you've got used to driving the car now it will probably feel pretty awful once you have lifted it.

Mine's now lifted properly, with most of the suspension re-engineered to cope with the lift,

QT front arms, £200
Gwenn Lewis rear arms, £130
TD5 prop, I'd gues you are looking £150, plus £30 flange to fit it
Brake lines, no more than £70 if you've got DC callipers, less if they are SC
Bump stops, £7.50 each I think for +1.5" poly
Then your springs and dampers/lowered mounts
and your tyres.

Plus a parachute for the girlfriend to get out again.

Oh and the ARB spacers, £5.50 a pair.  You need to space the rear one to stop it inverting when you get articulated, the front one needs spacing just to avoid the prop.

I'd also suggest you increase your maintenance on the propshaft UJs as they start to work harder, don't be surprised if well used UJs pack up shortly after installing a lift.

Just did a search on info about Dis-location cones and come across this thread.

Where should I get ARB spacers and any recommmendations on the Dis-location Cones.

DC/SC callipers ?
Cheers.
Colin,
Shiny Blue Crew 009
                   "Everbody Has to be Somewhere"


 

Offline Budgie

  • Regional Rep
  • *
  • Posts: 2217
  • Attack: 100
    Defense: 100
    Attack Member
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • This post is best viewed on a computer.
    • Lochaber
  • Referrals: 0
suspension lift
« Reply #11 on: July 30, 2006, 20:15:35 »
The solid alloy tow hitch spacers make a good ARB spacer.  :wink:

Take your pick with dis/re-location cones, Paddocks are one of the cheapest.

Offline bullfrog

  • Posts: 1009
  • Attack: 100
    Defense: 100
    Attack Member
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Referrals: 0
suspension lift
« Reply #12 on: July 30, 2006, 21:40:36 »
You can get all those parts a LOT cheaper. :)
Not sure where anyone gets 2K from !!
For a +2" you dont need to spend £££££ on stuff.
Springs and shocks of ordinary make (blue or yellow) £200
Brake lines. £59 (delivered and inclusive)
You could buy castor correction bushes for less than £100.
You wont need rear arms unless you are seriousll playing.
You can get cranked ans castored radius arms for £150 and rear arms for £140
For around £350 you can get springs, shocks, cones, brake lines, turret rings , retainers and few other odds.
Tyres shoukld set you back around £300 but you may get a deal on rims too if you need them.
I make that £650 for complete +2" lift and tyres ! 8)
not quite 2K !! :?

I meet loads of people who spend ££££££ on there truck only to see standard trucks with M/Ts drive past them when they are stuck !!
Get the lift and tyres and see how you go.  :idea:
Try MM4x4, 4x4 mail order, Paddocks  etc for prices. all around the same.
I got my brake lines from LLamha4x4  8) . Very good value and quility item.

Offline Budgie

  • Regional Rep
  • *
  • Posts: 2217
  • Attack: 100
    Defense: 100
    Attack Member
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • This post is best viewed on a computer.
    • Lochaber
  • Referrals: 0
suspension lift
« Reply #13 on: July 30, 2006, 23:37:57 »
Quote from: "bullfrog"

Not sure where anyone gets 2K from !!
 They haven't from what I can see, RRB said about £1200 for good quality kit but I can't see anyone mention 2K!  :?

Offline andyb

  • Posts: 412
  • Attack: 100
    Defense: 100
    Attack Member
  • Karma: +0/-0
    • Tilshead, Wiltshire
  • Referrals: 0
suspension lift
« Reply #14 on: July 31, 2006, 09:13:08 »
Quote from: "Range Rover Blues"
DC/SC callipers ?


Double circuit/Single Circuit.

RR, Disco front are DC. Def front SC. :)

Offline bullfrog

  • Posts: 1009
  • Attack: 100
    Defense: 100
    Attack Member
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Referrals: 0
suspension lift
« Reply #15 on: July 31, 2006, 09:53:30 »
I stand corrected.
Mind you £650 is still not £1200. :?
Arms etc would push price up but for just a +2" and some larger tyres all the other kit is not needed. :!:

Offline Colin 009

  • Posts: 2303
  • Attack: 100
    Defense: 100
    Attack Member
  • Karma: +0/-0
    • High Wycombe
  • Referrals: 0
suspension lift
« Reply #16 on: July 31, 2006, 14:27:59 »
Quote from: "andyb"
Quote from: "Range Rover Blues"
DC/SC callipers ?


Double circuit/Single Circuit.

RR, Disco front are DC. Def front SC. :)


Thanks for clearing that up. :)
Cheers.
Colin,
Shiny Blue Crew 009
                   "Everbody Has to be Somewhere"


 

Offline bullfrog

  • Posts: 1009
  • Attack: 100
    Defense: 100
    Attack Member
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Referrals: 0
suspension lift
« Reply #17 on: July 31, 2006, 21:42:45 »
Re your flexi brake lines if you phone dave at LLAHMA4X4 and tell him the year and model of your truck he will know what you need . I have sevaral sets of his and they are mustard. 8)

Offline Ralph Hardwick

  • Posts: 88
  • Attack: 100
    Defense: 100
    Attack Member
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Referrals: 0
suspension lift
« Reply #18 on: July 31, 2006, 21:44:21 »
I got my kit from M&M.  I have blue springs and Pro-comp shocks cost about £250-ish.

I run 235/85 Goodyear MTR's (about £100 each) and I had to cut the rear quarter slightly.

I popped a rear spring a couple of times but have solved this by using jubilee clips around the top of the rear springs so they dont come out.  Ihave had no problems since.

I have removed my rear anti-roll bar although I am planning to add spacers and put it back.

I haven't extended the brake hoses and have had no problems although I will probably do this for safety reasons later.

The car handles fine although there is a fair bit more body roll but nothing to cause concern.

All in all a good result for minimum outlay.
1995 300Tdi Discovery

Vehicle mods and expedition countdown blog
www.overland-rovers.com

Norfolk & Suffolk 4X4 Response
www.4x4response.net

Offline Range Rover Blues

  • Moderator
  • ***
  • Posts: 15218
  • Attack: 100
    Defense: 100
    Attack Member
  • Karma: +3/-0
    • South Yorkshire
  • Referrals: 0
suspension lift
« Reply #19 on: August 03, 2006, 21:25:47 »
Quote from: "Range Rover Blues"
Of course if you only off-road you don't need castor correction, but as you've got used to driving the car now it will probably feel pretty awful once you have lifted it.


The other thing I should add is that your nice new Mt tyres won't last as long running around with negative castor.  Go on, ask me how I found that out.
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

Offline Bulli

  • Posts: 1694
  • Attack: 100
    Defense: 100
    Attack Member
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Referrals: 0
suspension lift
« Reply #20 on: August 04, 2006, 12:10:00 »
650 is cheap...300 quid for 4 tyres....surely you need 5 or you will blow your halfshaft/diff if you get a puncture. With tyres you get what you pay for ....sadly mine cost a more than your total for the lift...

I dont like jubilee clips on springs its a bodge ...sorry ive said it before and havnt changed my mind. For the cost of cones why bother?
EFILNIKCUFECIN
Disco V8 3 dr - THROW ME A FRICKIN' BONE HERE.
3 link, lockers and 35's- NUFF said

Offline HIPPO

  • Posts: 21
  • Attack: 100
    Defense: 100
    Attack Member
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Referrals: 0
lifts
« Reply #21 on: August 06, 2006, 10:23:42 »
Just thought i would add my bit, i lifted my discovery using a kit from Paddocks, Britpart yellow springs and procomp shocks it was only a 1.5/2" lift, and also brake lines from Llama. I also changed all the bushes to deflex ones again from Paddocks.  The tyres I fitted are BFG Muds 225/75-16.  The road manners were fine for me but when swmbo drove it it used to wonder about?  its just what you get used to.  I then fitted wheel spacers which did make a small difference.  it didn't have A/R Bars.  I felt the lift was about right for what i used it for and it also meant the kids could still get in and out.  All you need to do is check out lots of other disco's, do lots of looking on the net and buy what suits you and what you want to use it for.  A 2" lift is very common and doesn't stress all the other components out too much.
All just  my thoughts.

The picture below is after a "little drive" around coney green.
HIPPO
97 Discovery 300 TDI - painted in Java Black, now where's my sponge.......

Offline Range Rover Blues

  • Moderator
  • ***
  • Posts: 15218
  • Attack: 100
    Defense: 100
    Attack Member
  • Karma: +3/-0
    • South Yorkshire
  • Referrals: 0
suspension lift
« Reply #22 on: August 06, 2006, 16:24:33 »
Too true, a 2" lift is very porular, anything 1 1/2 " to 2 inch is easy to live with, much more and you end up with negative castor.  Believe me that's BAD.
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

Offline Colin 009

  • Posts: 2303
  • Attack: 100
    Defense: 100
    Attack Member
  • Karma: +0/-0
    • High Wycombe
  • Referrals: 0
suspension lift
« Reply #23 on: August 06, 2006, 16:48:17 »
Just did a 2" lift on my Discovery, :D


Pro Comp es9000s and Blue Bearmach springs from Tuff-Toys.

Ordered Tuesday delivered wednesday, top service from those guys. They were even answering their phone at 2:30pm on a saturday,

Had a 30 mile drive home from my mate who fitted them and the ride was Great, much smoother than the DeCarbons and standard spings on before.
Cheers.
Colin,
Shiny Blue Crew 009
                   "Everbody Has to be Somewhere"


 

 






SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal