How can I remove a snapped bolt

[Homer]

Hi All,

After replacing the swivel pin bearings I had an oil leak from the swivel housing seal. Turns out I hadnt tightened the bolts up. Anyway whilst tightening them I snapped one if the bottom ones. It boke off about 2 mm inside the screw hole. What tool can I use to remove it and where can I get one from??


Cheers


Mark

[Hightower]

How about one of these http://www.altecweb.com/home.asp?cat=Subcategory5+Piece+Screw+Extractor+Set

I think Halfords stock them.

[Tyke]

A good quality stud extractor should do the job. Don't buy cheap ones, they may cause even more trouble.

You will need to drill a pilot hole down the centre of the broken bolt and then use the extractor, held in proper tap wrench, to work the screw out.

The whole set-up really needs to be rigid while you do this. There is a very real chance that if it moves, during drilling or extraction, the drill or the extractor could break and then you are in real trouble.


Remember, cheap extractors are rubbish, they will break and possibly render the whole swivel assembly as scrap. If the worst happens you will have to remove the whole swivel ball and get it to a good engineering shop for removal. It isn't practical to remove a broken extractor or drill in the normal home workshop.


Go for the largest and best quality extractor that will fit and good luck.

[Tyke]

Something like this shouldn't cause you any problems. Much better quality and complete with guides, nuts,  etc  


http://www.fine-tools.co.uk/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=SO6&Category_Code=

[Homer]

Thanks for the info!


Regards


Mark

[Tyke]

Your welcome mate.

I'll just say again that if you've never done this before, be carefull. If the extractor or drill break in the bolt they are a devil to remove, you will need a specialst engineer to sort it out then.

Another thing to watch is whether or not the bolt can be drilled through or whether it has 'bottomed out in blind hole when it sheared.

If blind it could be a little more awkward to remove and if you drill through then bits of swarf will probably end up in the swivel housing, not good for seals or bearings. You may end up stripping the housing just to clean the swarf out. Gentle heat around the area of the bolt hole may also help if that is possible.

On the other hand, it may just 'pop' straight out, they sometimes look worse than they really are. All depends on why it broke in the first place and usually thats because the bolt has bottomed out in a blind hole and has been overtightened or it is siezed into the threads.

[thermidorthelobster]

I think I might put one of these kits on the shopping list.  I broke a bolt in the exhaust downpipe of the 101 in Africa and it was a PITA.  Although, it would have been a sod to get to.

[Tyke]

Although, it would have been a sod to get to

Afraid that's usually the problem. A mate of mine did a stud on his V8 inlet manifold a while back. No access with 'normal' gear, rang a local engineer and he said scrap the engine  :shock:

Finally got it out by drilling tiny holes in the end of the stud with one of those hand sized Dremmel 'hobby drills', collapsed the stud into the hole and then picked out the bits with a scriber and magnet. Took absolutely ages to do and at one point he seriously considered resigning the motor to the scarp bin.

I then found an engineering company in Sheffield who specialise in removing broken studs/extractors. They use a laser welder to 'build up' the end of the stud/extractor and then weld a nut on top of that. Bingo, wind it all out with a spanner. Would have needed the engine out to set it up on the laser rig anyway so just as well we found a way, also it's quite expensive to do it with the laser apparently.



What do they say, 'When needs must?' . . . .  

[BrumLee]

http://www.fine-tools.co.uk/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=SO6&Category_Code=

Absolutely agree this is the best tool for the job as the worm type of extractor only expands the broken bit  :roll:

Mark, If you're coming up to Solihull tomorrow I'll bring my kit with me  

[Homer]

Luckily I had another look at it before I spent any money.

Was going to have a quick go and see if I could do anything using the drill, put the drill bit on the bolt and notcied that it moved! so after 10 mins of messing about with a pair of long nose pliers and a screwdriver the offending bolt is now out.

I will put one of those kits on the shopping list for next time though!


Cheers


Mark

[Homer]

Mark, If you're coming up to Solihull tomorrow I'll bring my kit with me  

Hi Lee,

I am not coming up tomorrow, I was going to have to work so I gave up my place on the team. Now I am not working  

Thanks for the offer though.  :lol:

Regards

Mark

[BrumLee]

Glad you're all sorted on the bolt issue  8) You can also get reverse drill bits that help if the broken bolt is not siezed.

Sorry you're not coming tomorrow but I'm sure we'll bump into each other soon    :lol: See you soon

[burgerman]

looks as im a tad late on this one,   But yes    reverse drills are worth there weight in gold,  yet again dont buy cheap ones,  i have found that even with seized bolts that the heat and vibration also helps to shift the bolt, as you have to drill a pilot hole for a stud extracter any how,,  glad ya got it fixed anyhow

[drmike]

I was pleasantly suprised to drift a sheared stud out once. It was a decennt diameter and had not sheared off smooth so there was something to tap but it actually came out quite readily that way using a centre punch and hammer.

Mike

[Tyke]

Well sorted on the broken stud/bolt . . . . glad it didn't cause you any hassle. Looks like you got out of that one easily  


Always a worry are broken studs/bolts.