AuthorTopic: 200TDi power loss when warm  (Read 5691 times)

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Offline Fizzy Pig

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200TDi power loss when warm
« on: July 06, 2006, 13:40:59 »
I got my Defender (the Fizzy Pig) a couple of months ago and it has a low mileage 200TDi engine in and I have just had her serviced to (and new fuel tank). She starts fine everytime but when she gets warm I lose power and in top gears, usually in 4th & 5th @ 50mph and she has conked out on me a couple of times.

Undoubtably fuel starvation. She does seem lumpy when warm/hot to.  Cold she is right as ninepence. And I have had her off road all day long no problem including towing a dead Disco up a 40 degree hill like it wasn't there.
So bottom line, cold and in low gears/speeds fine. Just as she gets warm stutters and sometimes dies when doing 50ish.

Is there some sort of temp detector or fuel control mechinism associated with the temp? Any ideas guys or anyone had similer?

Cheers :? [/img]

Offline wizard

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200TDi power loss when warm
« Reply #1 on: July 06, 2006, 15:20:20 »
Sounds like the fuel lift pump is dead. A replacement is about £25.

regards
Wizard :twisted:

Offline Fizzy Pig

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200TDi power loss when warm
« Reply #2 on: July 06, 2006, 15:29:17 »
If it was the fuel lift pump wouldn't this affect the preformance going up and down steep hills off road? What are the general symtoms or ways to prove if it is the fuel lift pump?

I'll be chuffed if it just £25 to fix her. Another dumb question but what top speed would you expect from a 200TDi 90. I can just get 60 at best. (never had a deisel before as I had a 3.9 V8 Rangie prior to this)

Cheers

Offline beast5680

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200TDi power loss when warm
« Reply #3 on: July 06, 2006, 16:23:47 »
I would check all the fuel lines to make sure they're not squashed anywhere, check for a breather on the tank and make sure its not blocked, i had a tractor that had a blocked tank vent which caused fuel trouble by creating a vacuum in the tank as it used more fuel which was in effect pulling the diesel back to the tank, check lift pump as wizard says also, does it start again easily after stopping? did it do this before the tank was changed?
Neal

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Offline hobbit

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200TDi power loss when warm
« Reply #4 on: July 06, 2006, 19:19:39 »
Another thing if they have them fitted. I'm talking on a 200tdi disco mind you, they have a sediment/water trap unit under by the tank, we had one in  recently with contaminated deisel, had to drain tank and replace fuel filter, then finished up bypassing this unit as it was seized solid and would not work, once bypassed no probs
Kev

'91 stretch Discovery 200 Tdi
Hybrid for running round (got to go now)
Srs 3 Lightweight petrol (got to go)
Srs 3 Lightweight petrol, runabout

Not every problem can be solved with duct tape, and it's exactly for those situations we have WD 40

Offline Fizzy Pig

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200TDi power loss when warm
« Reply #5 on: July 07, 2006, 08:31:41 »
I have just got a new feul tank & she has just had a service so I don't think it is any of these things as she was doing it before this as well.

But things to thinks about. Cheers Fizzy Pig

Offline beast5680

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200TDi power loss when warm
« Reply #6 on: July 07, 2006, 08:42:07 »
you just had a new fuel tank and now you have fuel problems? you see where i,m going here? dont assume its not that always worth a check :wink:
Neal

let him that hath understanding reckon the number of the beast

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Offline Fizzy Pig

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200TDi power loss when warm
« Reply #7 on: July 07, 2006, 08:53:18 »
Thanks Neal, but I was having the same problem before I had the new tank fitted. I had a quick look last night for squashed pipes ect. I will take a look at the breather this weekend as well to make sure.

I'm also trying a new experiment with the air intake, I'll post if it makes any difference or not.

Cheers

Offline Richie_EB4

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200TDi power loss when warm
« Reply #8 on: July 07, 2006, 09:57:44 »
Check all your fuel pipes for air leaks.........you will find that it will draw air into the fuel filter and then starve the pump.
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Offline Fizzy Pig

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200TDi power loss when warm
« Reply #9 on: July 08, 2006, 16:47:42 »
Thanks for your suggestions guys. I might have found the problem :)

The old Fizzy Pig has a home made snorkel which she had when I bought her, It is basically a bit of plastic tube running up the windscreen with a load of holes drilled in and the top blocked off.

As the trouble only seemed to be when at the dizzy top speeds of 50 to 60 MPH and from your suggesions about air in the fuel. I have sealed off about 2/3 of the air holes in the snorkle. Still a bit early to be absolutly sure but I have taken her on a few runs the same as my usual ones with problems and she's been fine.

Not saying she's completly right yet but not conking out down the dual carrigeway is a big plus. Also discovered my snorkel is not fully air tight which is a major bonus before I go more than 4 feet under ( got damn close to it last weekend too).

Cheers for your help on my first posting. Great to have the advice and knowedge from those with Landy know how. I doubt it will be my last.

Fizzy Pig  :)

Offline graham2306

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200TDi power loss when warm
« Reply #10 on: July 09, 2006, 13:41:39 »
Quote from: "Fizzy Pig"
Also discovered my snorkel is not fully air tight which is a major bonus before I go more than 4 feet under ( got damn close to it last weekend too).


Don't want it airtight, you want it watertight mate!!!!!
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Classic cars are the ones who's owners wave to each other. I just bought a pretend car! F plate 90!

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Offline hobbit

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200TDi power loss when warm
« Reply #11 on: July 09, 2006, 15:25:17 »
Try running without the fuel cap on, just the once

It may be making a seal and not venting
Kev

'91 stretch Discovery 200 Tdi
Hybrid for running round (got to go now)
Srs 3 Lightweight petrol (got to go)
Srs 3 Lightweight petrol, runabout

Not every problem can be solved with duct tape, and it's exactly for those situations we have WD 40

Offline Fizzy Pig

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200TDi power loss when warm
« Reply #12 on: July 10, 2006, 10:21:12 »
Graham2306 - Good point!!!  :oops:  Thanks!

Hobit - I'll give it a go with out the fuel cap. Now you mention it when I take the fuel cap off to fill up there is a pretty major in rush of air.

I have done a number of runs this weekend and again today to work along the same stretch I normally have problems but none at the moment. But it may well be I am just masking the real problem.

Cheers guys I will let you know  :)

Offline hobbit

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200TDi power loss when warm
« Reply #13 on: July 10, 2006, 10:29:41 »
Sometimes these systems block up on the cap or breather, and can cause this problem with vacuum, its all a case of trial and error
Kev

'91 stretch Discovery 200 Tdi
Hybrid for running round (got to go now)
Srs 3 Lightweight petrol (got to go)
Srs 3 Lightweight petrol, runabout

Not every problem can be solved with duct tape, and it's exactly for those situations we have WD 40

Offline Range Rover Blues

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200TDi power loss when warm
« Reply #14 on: July 11, 2006, 02:55:15 »
Did you say it runs better with the snorkel partly blocked? that's not right.  A diesel should be able to breath very easily, the power is controled by the amount of fuel added, the volumetric efficiency should be as high as possible in all situations.
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Offline Fizzy Pig

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200TDi power loss when warm
« Reply #15 on: July 18, 2006, 14:42:11 »
Cheers for all your help guys. I hope I'm there now.

Looks like the tank not breathing is the problem. I had the stalling problem again today and decided to open the fuel cap to see if letting in air cured it. Only problem was.... Numb nuts here  :oops:  forgot he had just filled her up to the brim last night. So like a Little Britain comic sketch I got a vomiting of diesel all over me.

So after another shower and change of cloths had a chat to my local 4X4 centre now I have definite information. They said sounded like the fuel cap, but this was brand new from Landrover when I got the 90 as the original didn't lock.

Looks like they sold me a duffer and was probably the cause of my old fuel tank rupturing in the first place. We have have tried some mods using a drill so fingers crossed that's the end of it.

As you said beast5680 "never assume" My mistake thinking a brand new puker part from the manufacturer would be OK. Should have known by how bad they are at getting parts in when they say.

Cheers again all  :D

 






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