Topic: P-gasket replacement? (Read 2616 times)

jnoshea · « **on:** July 13, 2006, 16:20:14 »

Hi Guys, haven't been posting much lately but still keeping an eye. Anyway, the Disco has started overheating again and I've traced the water leak to a slow seepage from behind and beneath the water pump. I'm guessing it's the P-gasket so I think I'll change it on the weekend. Water pump is making a nice scraping noise too so I might as well change that at the same time. So apart from the P-gasket and the pump, is there anything else I need to get from Paddocks on Saturday morning before I start. The disco is our only car so I don't want to get halfway through and realise I need a .....

Mace · « **Reply #1 on:** July 13, 2006, 19:37:49 »

Maybe I'm wrong but I thought you had to get a genuine LR P gasket as the factory made modifications to prevent future failure. I got a feeling the other manufacturers are still selling standard ones. Shoot me down in flame why don't you :lol:

jnoshea · « **Reply #2 on:** July 13, 2006, 19:59:12 »

I think you're right Mace, the new part number is PET100790 which I think is the upgraded aluminium one instead of the old paper one. I'm hoping that Paddocks has one 'cos my local dealer tends not to stock anything so there's always a few days wait.

denviks · « **Reply #3 on:** July 13, 2006, 20:01:06 »

have you got a spanner to take viscouse fan off?

just a thought

jnoshea · « **Reply #4 on:** July 13, 2006, 20:05:31 »

Now chuckle if you want, but I wasn't going to take the fan off because I'm not going to replace the belt, so I was hoping (and I haven't tested my theory yet) that I could untension the belt and get it off the pump etc and just let it hang around the fan pulley. Will this not work? :D

denviks · « **Reply #5 on:** July 13, 2006, 20:13:08 »

is the 300 series the same as the 200? if so the viscouse fan is on the water pump...so if you are changing the water pump you will need to remove the viscouse unit from the water pump before removing it

jnoshea · « **Reply #6 on:** July 13, 2006, 20:15:45 »

The fan is not on the pump in the 300Tdi, in fact it's quite far away.

denviks · « **Reply #7 on:** July 13, 2006, 20:18:18 »

thats cool then mate........sorry for worrying you :lol: :lol:

Xtremeteam · « **Reply #8 on:** July 13, 2006, 20:32:53 »

but you will however have to remove the fan to get the casing off which the P gasket is behind

you need to remove:the fan,belt,waterpump undone,alternator & pas pump,then the casing should come away leaving the block behind it with the P gasket onit

jnoshea · « **Reply #9 on:** July 13, 2006, 21:43:01 »

Quote from: "RedlineMike"

but you will however have to remove the fan to get the casing off which the P gasket is behind

you need to remove:the fan,belt,waterpump undone,alternator & pas pump,then the casing should come away leaving the block behind it with the P gasket onit

I thought the casing that the P-gasket is behind was separate from the the timing cover and casing that is behind the fan. Is it just that you can't get to the bolts with the fan still fitted?

davidlandy · « **Reply #10 on:** July 13, 2006, 22:15:37 »

it is - you dont have to touch the timing case

the proper gasket is an allly one and its a use once as it has a little collapseable rib on it, buy a couple of them - someone i know put two of them on for good measure!

Mace · « **Reply #11 on:** July 13, 2006, 22:30:11 »

Someone I know used a makeshift bike spanner as a viscous fan removal tool

Ollie !!!

Tyke · « **Reply #12 on:** July 14, 2006, 08:27:28 »

Word of warning when you come to remove the bolts holding the accessory bracket to the block . . . .

The long through bolt in the lower left hand corner can be a pain to get out. Quite often they sieze due to water seepage and subsequent corrosion. Access to the nut at the back of the bracket on the long bolt is also difficult, might need to get creative with sockets and extensions. Give all the bolts a good coat of copperslip before re-assembling.

Did one a while ago, parts were in reasonable condition, bolts were stiff but not totally siezed, needed a good rubbing up on the wire wheel to clean them up before re-assembly though. Job took just over two hours

Ollie · « **Reply #13 on:** July 14, 2006, 10:51:11 »

Quote from: "Mace"

Someone I know used a makeshift bike spanner as a viscous fan removal tool Ollie !!!

Yep, still pride of place in my Land Rover tool box 8)

Ollie

jnoshea · « **Reply #14 on:** July 14, 2006, 15:32:47 »

Quote from: "davidlandy"

it is - you dont have to touch the timing case

the proper gasket is an allly one and its a use once as it has a little collapseable rib on it, buy a couple of them - someone i know put two of them on for good measure!

so is that:
a) you don't touch the timing case therefore the fan can stay on or
b) you don't touch the timing case but you can't get the other part off with the fan still in place :D

ChrisW · « **Reply #15 on:** July 14, 2006, 15:34:50 »

I've got a nagging doubt in the back of my mind when I changed my water pump it was a PITA with the fan still fitted - if you're going in further than the water pump I would strongly suggest getting a viscous fan spanner from Halfords, think they're only around a tenner anyway.

jnoshea · « **Reply #16 on:** July 14, 2006, 16:16:58 »

I didn't realise Halfords had them. I thought it might have been a mailorder job, thereby stopping me playing on the weekend. Cheers.

Doodlebug · « **Reply #17 on:** July 14, 2006, 22:08:49 »

I replaced mine last year with a genuine parts one which are alloy/copper & a lot better than the pattern parts.

I'm not sure but I think my genuine kit came with replacement bolts for some reason but cant remember why!

I just slackened everything off & slid them forwards to ease the gasket in behind, still good after 12 months. Job took just over 2 hours.

jnoshea · « **Reply #18 on:** July 14, 2006, 22:26:04 »

Two hours sounds good. I'll tell the wife 6 though

Xtremeteam · « **Reply #19 on:** July 14, 2006, 23:14:00 »

Quote from: "jnoshea"

Quote from: "davidlandy"
it is - you dont have to touch the timing case

the proper gasket is an allly one and its a use once as it has a little collapseable rib on it, buy a couple of them - someone i know put two of them on for good measure!

so is that:
a) you don't touch the timing case therefore the fan can stay on or
b) you don't touch the timing case but you can't get the other part off with the fan still in place :D

B

jnoshea · « **Reply #20 on:** July 17, 2006, 21:24:37 »

Well it took 9 hours in the end because one of the water pump bolts (yes one of the three around the P-gasket) was so seized that not even the vice-grips would budge it. Had to spend 3 hours cutting through it at a very awkward angle. Finally got the water pump housing off and found that only about 10% of the original P-gasket was still there, the rest had disolved away. Anyway, all back together now and just waiting to test it on a long journey to see if this has cured the overheating problem. Fitted a new water pump while I was there.

By the way, I replaced the three P-gasket bolts with stainless steel studs this time. Keeps the P-gasket nicely in place while you slide the water pump assembly back on. Need to be careful to get the length right though otherwise they could come close to the drive belt.

News:

AuthorTopic: P-gasket replacement? (Read 2616 times)

ChrisW