Still overheating 300tdi....saga continues

[loyalduke]

Well the saga continues as you know I had the head gasket done, new water pump, new radiator and checked the fan.....so the cooling system is working :?  Oh for good measure 2 new thrmostats tried and now removed altogether.

So tootle along at 50-60 mph and its just about ok but still hot (top and bottome hose equally hot) but then try going up a bit of a hill and up the needle climbs(checked the sender).

Top hose hardens with the pressure but as soon as it cools the pressure drops back. There is no noticeable loss of water(expansion cap hissing as water gets v.hot), no contamination present in either coolant or oil.

There has been a increase in fuel consumption and it is noticeable that I have to drop a gear more than normal to pull up a hill and 'acceleration' is not as good as in the winter when it was running cooler :roll:

Advice is mixed but the consensus seems to point towards a cracked head, so Monday off it comes again    and check it over and pressure test it.

Being pessimistic/optomistic if the head is ok.....then what else could it be :?:

With Billing approaching I want to get it sorted this week.....advice please

[Jas278]

Blocked Rad, internally or ext....with mud ?

[loyalduke]

Jas
Its a new radiator along with all the other bits so I know its not the cooling system.....hence the mystery :?

[jnoshea]

Hope you find the solution. Let us know if it's the head causing the problem 'cos mine is overheating too as you know.  I'm losing water from somewhere near the water pump though so I'm pinning my hopes on a new P-gasket and water pump.

[jnoshea]

Just a thought but could it be a problem in the drivetrain. I'm guessing that if there is too much friction somewhere like the wheel bearings and axles that the engine would have to work much harder to overcome this. Could explain poor acceleration, power and overheating?  :?

[mark.yellow.series.3]

Just a thought but could it be a problem in the drivetrain. I'm guessing that if there is too much friction somewhere like the wheel bearings and axles that the engine would have to work much harder to overcome this. Could explain poor acceleration, power and overheating?  :?

i think the power loss would have to be very noticable for it to overheat the engine.
i would bet its the head.

[bilge rat]

how long have you had the prob . did anything trigger it off in the first place, that a bar and lights is restricting the air flow to the rad a fair bit . know it sounds daft but had a prob with a 200, but only when towing .put it down to wipacs .removed them it was ok. as said is the rad core clear, when ya say head prob thought the norm on a 300 was to blow the gasket out at no4 ,making like a ticking noise ?. alan.....

[daggie]

cracked/fecked head  :?:

[winchman]

Cant you get a test kit where ytou take a sample of rad water and it tells you if combustion products are getting in the water? think Snap on do them so others must, or am I dreaming?
Have you tried a pressuretest?

[bilge rat]

used to use a block test when checking petrols. picks up exhaust gases in the cooling system, dont ever recalling it being used on deisels though. you could take all the glow plugs out, make a union or something to screw into the glow plug whole. one by one set the cylinder your testing to tdc on the firing stroke lock the engine (hand/brake on in gear) then pressurize the cylinder with air. brim the header tank with water and watch to see iff ya get any air bubbles come through. it will tell you which cyl is leaking . narrows it down a bit. alan.......

[kwik.kwak]

me and my bro just both had the same problem a few weeks back, both bought new heads from paddock,s and all is ok now :)  heads £275 from paddock,s cheapest i cud find anywhere :)

[loyalduke]

me and my bro just both had the same problem a few weeks back, both bought new heads from paddock,s and all is ok now :)  heads £275 from paddock,s cheapest i cud find anywhere :)

I think that is the answer  :idea: and as you say at that price its not as painful as I thought. Is it a Britpart and what else is needed? obviously gasket set what about valves etc.? Not that I know what I am talking about as I am going to have to apy someone to do it :oops: ......hopefully sorted by Thursday so I canget to Billing on Friday :lol:  :lol:

Seems thet are all going at the same time.....chatting to a lad I know today and he has the same problem but thought it was the turbo until I told him about this saga.  :roll:

John

[Jas278]

Quote...

 
 know it sounds daft but had a prob with a 200, but only when towing .put it down to wipacs .removed them it was ok.




I had this problem with winch solenoids in front of RAD so could be the answer.............

[landroverkeith]

Mine is Now also suffering with this problem seems to be fine cruising at 60/70 then suddenly whoosh up goes the needle. checked water its fine and doesnt seem to be any water in the oil. turn on the heaters and needle drops back down and then is fine..............

im going to flush the rad in the morn as this is 2 time she has done it  in space of the weekend

lol ok the first time was a trip to holyhead and back  :roll:

and today was central london  :shock:  never again !!

[Les Brock]

when you had the gasket changed did they skim the head ?, or comfirm it was dead true....or just fit one

guess why I'm asking this :roll:


I ended up doing mine twice....athough I checked it myself...it wasn't good enough it was warped

[loyalduke]

Yup they skimmed the head and gave it an acid bath as it was gunged up....need to do the inlet manifold this time. Probably put in an EGR blanking plate as this causes all the crap :roll:

Don't believe its the a-bar and wipacs as that would cause problems at low speed but the problems start when I am accelerating or trying to go uphill! Also the viscous fan seems to create a fair old gust through the rad at idle.

So of with her head :shock:  AXA will live again :lol:

[bilge rat]

just a thought daft as it seems i know, your viscous fan when cold should have little resistance when you spin it by hand with the engine off, get it to opperating temp turn engine off spin again should then be loads of resistance, have been known to fail on ocasions .alan......

[Porny]

Have you checked your heater matrix isn't leaking??  

Engine block, has this been flushed properly??  i.e. the the plug on the side of the engine block removed?  (small 13mm head brass bolt, located just under the exhaust manifold)


Ian

[Paul.K/LuckyTrucker]

Hi there, just a thought has the system been bleed of all air?