AuthorTopic: tinworm woes  (Read 845 times)

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Offline raeteam

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tinworm woes
« on: August 04, 2006, 13:50:37 »
any one got any photos on doing the sills on 5 door disco 1994 mine has serious tin worm on both sides (waxoyled for the last 11yrs my ass) any hoo any photos or where to get replacement inner and outer sills at reasonable cost.. then ill do the rear xmember panel that holds bumber, then the passenger side inside panel at rear quarter light ... then wings ,then ????.. ill try to get sum photos into a galley later

Offline Cal

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tinworm woes
« Reply #1 on: August 04, 2006, 17:09:21 »
Not sure how their prices compare to others but these guys do 'em:

http://www.mps4x4store.co.uk/about.htm

as do Paddocks (probably quite a few others as well  :wink: )

Offline Elmo

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tinworm woes
« Reply #2 on: August 05, 2006, 00:41:15 »
Got inner and outer repair panels for mine from Paddocks, quite reasonable. I still have the inners, when the outers were removed the inners were fine.

Here's hoping your story is similar. If not, I have the 5-door inners here and can let you have them cheap - they are brand new and no use to me. I'll do them for £10 cheaper than Paddocks for the pair.
H19 MJO - 200 Tdi "Elmo" still and always a "work in progress" ;)
C312 GVX - 110 CSW "Bessie" My latest victim - at last a proper Land Rover

Offline Range Rover Blues

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tinworm woes
« Reply #3 on: August 05, 2006, 01:42:30 »
I ought to get me a**e in gear and put this in the workshop section.

I did RRR last year, don't panic it's quite easy.

You will find the inner sill a flat 3mm plate with a slight return at the top for spot welding and the front and rear mounts fitted.  The outer sill wraps over the top of it (being part of the floor) then turns down for the sillouter, retuning underneath to close the sill.

If your floors aren't bad DO NOT buy ouoter sills, buy the repair panel from Paddocks.

Cut out most of the rot, I cut along the floor to just take outthe spot welds to the inner sill, that way the floor is resting on the sill but not joined to it.

you need to cut out the sill front and rear end, plus the triangulating plate across the underside of the floor (become clearer when you are underneath).

Remove the inner sill, replace the rubber mountings and fit the new inner sill.  On mine the only thing it was touoching was the edge of the floor where I had cut it.

As soon as you are happy the inner sills are straight and vertical, weld along the edge of the floor to the return at the top of the sill.  it may help later if you support the weight of the body somehow,otherwise it will be resting on the front and rear more than the sills.

Once the inner is one good and strong I then suggest you refit the outer of the sill with the bottom but leave the top face off for now, that way you can paint the vulnerable surface inside.  The Paddock panel had the floor section on the front door but not the back, if it does cut it off just beyond the bend, for strength.

Once the outer is on I suggest you fit up the front and back ends, you can avoid a lot of crawling underneath this way.  Also checko n any rust in the floor under the pedals/feet and beneath the rear carpets.

I finished off by fitting the strip of floor that covers the sill box, welding alongside the first weld of the floor to inner sill (this avoids a big rust trap) and from the outside so the weld was covered by the door rubber.  i should say that I bent the floor to give me a return for mounting the door rubber, again it gives the panel strength but is also easier to weld as you are not welding the edge of a panel so don''t burn through as much.

You will probably find the A post rotten and the floor sections, these are cheap repair panels too but be careful not to weld the fuel or brake lines.

I'll try and post some pictures
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

Offline raeteam

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tinworm pics in gallery
« Reply #4 on: August 05, 2006, 15:02:46 »
thanks for all the replies and a look at the rangie pics , my case seems differnt and if possible can you s look at them and advise what i need .. can i get away patching the inner sill and then using a outer sill repair patch ???

Offline Range Rover Blues

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tinworm woes
« Reply #5 on: August 06, 2006, 16:34:01 »
I've had a quick look and you're is not as bad as mine, so you could get away with patching the inner sill, but would you be happy with that?

The surface has scaled and is undoubtedly thinner now, if has rust and no amount of pianting will stop it for good.  SO how long do you want the repair to last?

It will make your life easier if you repair one half of each sill at a time though, so if you buy the inner sills then just replace the front half/back half as you think fit, if you decide to repair them then try to cut beyond the rust into sound metal, and use slightly thicker steel in your repairs.

The rear wheelarches are borderline in need of repair, I fabricated patches for these but I know I'll be going back some time to replace them.
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

 






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