Hub bearings

[zulublue]

I have just replaced all my disc's and pads on my 82 RRC, when removing the hubs I noticed the inner retaining nut was about finger tight, when I refitted it, I tightened it up and tapped it round with a hammer and screwdriver ( I know not the best, but tools to hand) I have taken her out for the first time today, and she felt a bit sluggish, like something was holding her back (I do know the carbs need setting up and maybe running rich) once I had stopped there was a slight burning smell, thought it maybe the hubs over heating or the brakes stuck on a bit, I put her in to neutral to see if I could move her and she rolled OK.

Any ideas anyone.

Mark.

P.S. 2" lift has also been fitted, also notice a whining noise.

[clbarclay]

The inner hub nut should not be done up tight, you adjust the inner nut so that the hub has a small amount of float and then do up the outer nut tight to stop the inner from moving.

To do it properly you need a DTI (dial test indicator), but it can be done by feel/eye if not avalible.


IIRC the workshop manual gives a routh guide, do the inner up tight (not B tight or BF tight) and then back it off a fraction of a turn. I don't have the manual to hand at the moment (I'm having a cup of tea) so i can't tell you what that fraction is at the moment.

[ChrisW]

I normally tighten the inner hub nut up as tight as I can until I can't turn the hub anymore then back it off 90deg and do it up hand tight, put the lock washer on, run the outer nut up to the washer and use it to hold the washer in place to knock one edge over the inner nut to hold it, then do the outer nut up as tight as I can and knock the washer over onto the outer locknut.

[zulublue]

Thanks Both, Ill do it tomorrow, hope it cures the issue, although all the hubs were spinning fine when I did them, but I suppose under pressure it may change.

[Eeyore]

What happens is this - the bearing get torqued up properly and over time the bearings wear, making the inner nut seem slack. This is normal and is why we have to check our wheel bearing regularly.

Whats probably happened now is that you've roasted your bearing by running it too tight (and man, they will get hot enough to melt the grease). The free rotation may well be down to excessive wear. I'll bet you 10 to 1 that if you lift the wheel and give it a tug, there's play in the bearing.

The best way I've found to torque a hubnut is to do it all with the wheel lifted and the wheel on. Tighten the inner nut, but not too tight as it'll damage the bearings. When it's getting close to being tight try spinning the wheel - it should spin freely. Then grab the tyre and give it a darn good wobble. If there's any movement then the bearing isn't tight enough. There should be no movement when you wobble the tyre, but the wheel should still spin nicely. The addage of uptight then back off an 1/8th of a turn can get you somewhere near.

Don't beat the nut up tight and don't use power tools to do it up, particularly impact guns.

When you're happy with the inner nut, apply the lock washer and the outer nut. Do this up relatively tight. Then check you're bearing for spin and wobble again. If it all feels good, fold the tabs over on the lock washer.

The whole adjustment process shouldn't take more than 5 - 10 minutes a wheel (I can do 4 in less than 20). The longest job is taking off and refitting the drive members! I usually use a simple 52mm box spanner with a 3/8th", 500mm extension as a tommy bar. I do have a 52mm impact socket, but that only comes out if the shaft ends are short enough and if the outer nut has corroded onto the lock washer (a common problem if you use monkey-metal lock washers).

Check them bearings though, just in case.

HTH

cheers
 8)
Eeyore

[zulublue]

Thanks will do. Only went 2 miles so hope there ok, touched the half shaft cap when I got back the rears were cool and the fronts were slightly warm.

Fingers crossed

[Budgie]

If you find you've got play in them again then before you tighten them again, remember to pack some more grease in the bearings cos the if the grease that was in there has melted then it won't be of much use now.  

[ChrisW]

I would offer to pop over and give you a hand but time doesn't seem to be on my side at the moment  :roll:

[zulublue]

All done all fine, it was the near side front calliper sticking a little bit, now sorted.

And I am now the proud owner of a MOT certificate.

[Range Rover Blues]

Just for the record, you don't need a DTi to check endfloat, in fact it's a PITA simply because if you fit new seals the wiper on the inner seal takes up the endfloat.  Fit the first nut and tighten to about 18 lb/ft then slacken, finger tighten then back off about 2 flats.  Losely fit the washer and second nut, spin it up to take up any backlash int he threads.  Lever against the washer onto the hub to force the hub back against the backlash.  Use a feeler guage between the first nut and outer bearing to measure the backlash.  Easy :)

The tighten it up/back off 2 flats is only accurate for new bearings :!:

And anyway, when the intergral CV/drivemember type axle was introduced (think ABS axle) the endfloat was drastically reduced, onlder axles can be set to the later endfloat and the only noticeable difference is the lack of brake pedal travel.

[zulublue]

Cheers RRB :?  I will keep a copy of your reply for future ref, as I thought PITA was a bread, End float was something you fished with and the DTi was a government body. LOL

[barmiebrumie]

All done all fine, it was the near side front calliper sticking a little bit, now sorted.

And I am now the proud owner of a MOT certificate.

 =D>  =D>  =D> ,

See you at one of our west mid's day's out soon then  :?:   ,




John.

[Range Rover Blues]

Cheers RRB :?  I will keep a copy of your reply for future ref, as I thought PITA was a bread, End float was something you fished with and the DTi was a government body. LOL

 :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

You have much to learn, Luke, but the force is strong in you.

[zulublue]

Hope to get to one, having problems with the carbs (I think (Hope)) getting some backfire in carbs at high revs and she is not running smooth, thought she was only firing on 5 or 6 pots but check it out and they seem ok.

Does anyone know a place in the west mids who specialise in SU carbs.

[Range Rover Blues]

Could be running lean, could be doing a valve :o

Blue backfires when a valve is going.

[zulublue]

The guy who checked it for me said the near side carb was pulling twice as much air as the off side, but he did not have the equipment around to alter, I have spoken to him today, and he said they are not SU carbs, Strombergs I think, so a wanted add going in for some SU's.

Might rip the engine and gearbox out and drop another one in!!!!

How difficult is it to put a wireing loom in? if I went for an EFi engine.

[Range Rover Blues]

The later hot-wire would be the one to go for then, more reliable.  WIll work with a 3.5 but the EFi had better heads, manifolds and the 3.9 had a better cam than the 3.5, that's where the power comes from.

But the EFi loom is almost entirely stand alone, so you could strip one out and with a few wires connected (depending on how well you want to do the job) you can lay an EFi loom into your car almost as-is.

[zulublue]

I dare say, there is going to be more to this than meets the eye, don't really know what is in there, the RR is an 82 but I am sure the engine is older as when I came to change the plugs it had the early model plugs.

Stuck between a rock and a hard place, I wish!!!!

[Range Rover Blues]

If the bottom end is solid you could swap the heads for later ones, an early (say 89 to 92) EFi would fit without too much grief either way (make sure you get the airbox) othersiwe buy an engine that runs with the complete EFi system including loom.

It's not too hard to instal and there's plenty of us could help.

[Budgie]

Before you go to all this effort of fitting an EFi loom etc, why not just get the carbs ballanced and, assuming it's Strombergs you've got, put new diaphrams in the carbs, refill the oil in the top of the pots and set the CO levels and ignition timing to see what it runs like when it's all set correctly?

it's not going to cost you much to do this and it maybe all your looking for!!  

[Range Rover Blues]

But that would be far too easy

Seriously that's a fair point, Stroms aren't that bad when set up properly but the cost of a good pair of SUs is about the same as a S/H EFi system which is capable of delivering more power.

[zulublue]

Both valid points, I was going down the carb balance route to start, but there is a few good drops of oil coming out of her, (nothing new I know).
The diaphrams are not split the needles are a bit worn, and if I am going to take the engine out I was thinking lets drop a good one in.

My mate was going to swap his 3.5efi out of his as he has just had a rebuild done on a 4.2 at JE engineering, which will be sweet, but maybe to good for a weekend every few weeks, so as much as I want his 3.5 I think he should leave it in, and do a new project with the 4.2, that's his call.

Its great to know you have help and advice around you on here, very much appreciated.

I know things are going to break, I just want to try and get the heart of the motor sorted as much as possible as work commitments are going to be increased shortly.

I did take her on her first off road today, well short bit of green lane and then some woods we found, and she went ok, the engine /carb is the last bit (for now) I need sorting so I hope it does not cost me much. :?

[Budgie]

That's the good thing with setting up the carbs, fueling and timing - it doesn't cast anything, unless you get yourself a Gunson Carbalancer to assist.  
It's what I've used on both SU's and Stromberg's and seems to do the job. I think they are about £13 from most good auto parts shops.

[zulublue]

Sending her in to a Carb Doctor tomorrow fingers crossed.