crank pulley

[blade]

after the distruction of my crank damper i fitted anew one put loctite on the bolt tightened it up as tight as i could but yesterday heard a tapping noise stuck my hand up and realised i could move the washer slightlyso tightened it up again.
anyone ideas how to stop this happening again

[bobtail4x4]

plastic metal to take the slack up?

[johnpirate]

I used sleeve and bush loctite and borrowed a commercial garages torque wrench so I could get it as close to the ridiculasly high setting its never come loose since.

[blade]

how did you stop engine turning handbrake and 1st gear dont seem to work

[hobbit]

how did you stop engine turning handbrake and 1st gear dont seem to work

1st gear low range + diff lock, and chock all 4 wheels

[clbarclay]

Try 5th gear, 1st gear gives more mecahnical advantage over the handbrake/wheels. The same goes for low range, use high.

[muddyjames]

My mechanic does it up so tight that when he changes the cam belt he has to destroy the pulley etc to undo it all. He is a MC member but dont know his user name :(

I think he gets it up on a car lift and just puts 1 almighty big bar onto it.

When I bought my disco I drove 150 miles and then next morning at my mates house when it started I had plumes of black smoke and no go for 5 minutes. Was very embarassing. It went on a low loader to the chap and he showed me the bits afterwards. He had to rebuild the crank shaft, the crank pulley key was worn big time and the 1/2inch bit of metal on the back of the pulley had smashed appart. Wish I took photos now. the timing had slight gone out hence the no go and plumes of smoke. I got away very lightly luckily. Could have been a blown up engine or new crank shaft if I had gone much further.

When I picked it up the brake pipe at the back rusted through. Guess it was some looking down on me as if the bolt hadnt worked loose and the car hadnt gone on a lorry to the mechanic I would hate to think where the brake pipe would have burst  :shock:

[johnpirate]

I made a plug to fit in the wading hole to stop the crankshaft turning whilst tightening .You can buy the cambelt setting tools on e,bay but they are about £50 I used a wading plug drilled a hole through it used the drillbit epoxyed into the hole .I set the engine on TDC.slid the drill bit into place to lock the engine and tightened the nut slowly.

[gtomo2]

Ok my crank pully is loose (you can trun it by hand and the enigne wont turn :shock: ). so i tighten it up and its sitting at a angle so is there a slot that it has to fit into to line it up. I imagine there is so you get the tdc mark in the right place. If so how do you find it as i have tryed turning the pully til it locks in place but it dont :roll:

[Jas278]

I made a plug to fit in the wading hole to stop the crankshaft turning whilst tightening .You can buy the cambelt setting tools on e,bay but they are about £50 I used a wading plug drilled a hole through it used the drillbit epoxyed into the hole .I set the engine on TDC.slid the drill bit into place to lock the engine and tightened the nut slowly.

I use a reverse light switch out of an old ford escort g/box , correct thread and you can here the plunger drop into the slot on the crank..

[drmike]

As usual I'm a bit confused with all this talk of locking the crank using the wading hole.

First off, this is the hole in the bell housing or the timing cover?

Secondly you can actually just get a pin in there and that's strong enough to let you tighten the pulley nut up to the 300 zillion NM that's required?

Doesn't something get damaged or break round the locking pin end of things if you do this?

Thanks

Mike