Converting to rag top

[Cal]

How readily available are the bits needed to turn a hard top to a rag top?

In particular am thinking of a proper tailgate and the little hook bits that you need to keep the canvas in place over the back of the tub.

I've seen you can buy stick and hood sets, but not the other bits - am guessing it could be a trip to a breakers yard or something like that, or buy a truck cab vehicle in the first place instead of HT.

[Tiki Al]

i just cut down the rear door just below the screen instead of fitting a tailgate makes for much easer access especially when your already in the back and want to close it. Exmore trim do a good stick set for a ragtop but it doesn't matter where you go their all cuite expensive.

[Cal]

Nice one - had been thinking about if that was possible - did you put any sort of finishing stip over where you cut, or does it end up quite neat anyway.

Does that also mean the wheel carrier is left in the same place?

[Tiki Al]

depends on where you cut it i suppose, mine doesn't look too pretty but i was in a rush when i did it and haven't had the time to do a proper job  :?  i guess you could still use the rear wheel carrier too long as yourhinges are up to the job (remember you will loose the top hinge) but can't see why it wouldn't still work

[Cal]

I was thinking that if I did the door like you have, you could use a swingaway wheel carrier to take the weight off the hinges.

Just not sure about some sort of finishing strip - will have to see what the proper drop tailgates have on them.

Thanks for your advice mate.

[Tiki Al]

yep that would work  :)

[Ben]

Have a look at my webshots. Exactly what I did to the "first" M666MUD... Edit: I've just reviewed the webshots, and there aren't that many of if post-soft top. However, if I can give advice on anything, shout!

It started out as a 90 truck cab though, so I had most of the clips (etc) and the dropdown tailgate which I converted to side mounted anyway.

I actually put a 110 stickset on mine (plus the addition of a military roll hoop to mount the seatbelts). You basically miss out one of the "front to rear" sticks, and then mount the centre "hoop" to the tub, rather than having it floating as per a "normal" 90. I assume you're on a 90?

I bought a couple of extra clips for attaching the rope - paddocks had them, and you just rivet them on. Not particularly expensive...

The tailgate is the biggest issue. You'll spend a lot of money on a drop down which doesn't have the tow bar imprint on it, and unless you side mount it, you won't have the necessary brackets on the cross member (unless they're detatchable - I can't remember). If you're side mounting, there is the option of using a cut down door, but if you've got a decent one already, then sell it to buy a drop down. If you fit a swingaway, no one will see the optional extra tow ball imprint!
You've just missed Old Sod, but that's the best place for picking one up.
I think you might get away with a series 3 tailgate as well...

If you can get a second hand set with the screen rail, door "tops" and "sides" and the hoops all in one for a sensible price, then that's the best way to go. I bought a second hand set with 2 90 canvases, and the 110 stick set for about £300, and then added the military hoop for another £150-£200 (can't remember which). Managed to get a replacement canvas when that one went porous, so in all, the conversion probably cost getting on for about £800. It last nearly 18 months before it was stolen... Lesson? Make sure that you get a secondary security device (diskloc, full metal jacket etc) before you do the conversion, as they're very desirable, and a lot more stealable - no locks...

Cheers

Ben

[Cal]

Thanks for the info Ben, and the warning. Part of the reason for a rag top is that it will fit in my garage, so it will be secure when it's at home.

I would also be looking at getting something like the meck lock kit from mud stuff to hopefully keep it secure and probably also have something visible like a sterring wheel lock as well.

All a bit theoretical at the moment as I don't have the cash - but I would hope to get a 90 early next year if not sooner!

[Litch]

All tie downs etc are available as genuine parts or from any other dealer, people like all wheel trim are probably the best to talk you through exactly what you need. None of them are expensive and there is no need to search out S/H items.

I used a normal tailgate and fitted it with a pair of hinges, there is no way the two hinges would support the weight of a spare wheel (remember the top hinge on a door is much higher and can support the weight better but will still sag after a while). I have been using a swing away carrier connected to the tailgate for the past 6-years and it works perfectly.

With regards to security, any LR can be broken into easily as the locks are not the best in the world. To prevent them just opening the front doors by putting their hands through the canvas I removed the links on the locks, the front doors can now only be locked/unlocked with a key. I have an alarm,  battery isolator, Clutch Claw and a removable steering-wheel, easier to pick the vehicle up on a flatbed and take it away than try to drive it.

[tiltboy]

Hi Cal.

I get asked about converting to soft top quite a lot and here are some points.

Firstly, the hood itself is the easy bit. Exmoor trim do a quality range, mine is thier canvas type and after 2 years there appears to be no shrinkage.

Secondly, the tilt frame and rails are a nightmare to get hold of. The top screen rail which fixes the hood to the screen top at the front is dealer only (unless you can find a good second hand one - good luck with that!) and comes out at about £100 new with all the fixings (clamps springs etc).
There are so many small fixing parts to the soft top frame that you need to browse the parts book, or if you're near me come and have a look with pleasure.

Thirdly, tailgate. The most discussed bit of the whole affair. I went for the cut down rear door option as this is the easiest way to retain the door handle and lock. This was a tricky project, using a grinder (new disc needed for a clean cut), which leaves a very uneven finish. I then fitted the inner from a series tailgate, perfect fit and once you've cut out recesses for the lock and hinges quite a neat job as it covers the cut accross the top of the old rear door quite nicely. Mines been on for a couple of years now and needs rivetting again but just one of a long list of jobs to do!

Lastly, once it's on don't take it off! I run mine in the summer with the sides and back rolled up but never with the entire hood removed as it is the devils own job to get back on again!

I've added some pics of the taigate to my gallery if you need to have a look.

I've got similar security measures to Litch, but like any Defender it's still a desirable vehicle which is only ever a flatbed truck away from being nicked! I think I'll try and fit a dog guard to stop sneaky fingers reaching the inner door locks/window regulators. It's still a lottery though!

Tailgate gallery link;

 http://members.mud-club.com/profiles/tiltboy/gallery/TAILGATE

HTH

Jez

[Jake]

For tilt tops try Sodbury Sortout or any other auto jumble.
Ex army tilts are cheapest but if you have a specific colour in mind then buy new.
You could always find some one that has a tilt on and copy it?
There's plenty of canvas sow'ers out there.
 :D