DOES 3" LIFT = SPECIAL PROPSHAFTS, CASTOR CORRECTION ET

[John Clayton]

Anyone know of a good book or magazine article that covers how to do a 3" lift properly?

My 300TDI had a 3" lift + dislocation cones from the previous owner but I'm not sure all the knock-on issues were taken into consideration.

Do I need to do anything with the following:

-propshaft angles front + back ('double cardon' prop?)
-castor correction
-extended brake hoses
-steering
-Gear + Transfer box levers (need to check if they're too short)

Anyone got any experience to relay on this front?

[Skibum346]

John,

From memory, anything over 2" lift means wide angle or double cardon props, certainly need cranked and castor corrected front & rear radius arms.

Should already have extended brake hoses & shock absorbers.

The radius arm upgrades are important to keep your steering geometry correct.

The props are to prevent binding of UJ's and the knowck on strains on transfer box & gearbox.

There is no issue I know of that affect the length of transfer or gearbox levers. I assume you mean the levers used to change gear and engage high/low box? With a lifted vehicle, the whole chassis is lifted and as the gearbox & transfer box are mounted to the chassis they do not change position with reference to the body.

Other than that, the only issue may be changing your bump stops to suit any larger tyres that are fitted and cutting away wheel arches to accomodate them as well.

The only "book" I can recomend is the new HAynes manual "Modifying your Discovery".

Kindest

Skibum

[Budgie]

First question is: How does it drive?

You only need a double cardan prop if you're getting vibration through the gear train when driving. If you need to change the prop then a wide angle yoke type won't help as the vibrations will still be there. The double cardan eases the angle that the prop has to work at, thus reducing the vibration (or pulsing) caused by the lift.

If the lift was a suspension lift then the gear stick etc won't have moved, only a body lift will do this. If it's a body lift then the radiator will have moved as well!

Caster corrected radius arms: When driving do you notice that it's hard to keep the Disco in a straight line, always having to correct the steering, steering feels very light? Then best to get corrected radius arms. These will tighten up the steering and mean it won't follow any lines inthe road (tram line) when driving.

Extended break hoses: If they are not fitted then get some. You don't want to snap the hoses on full articulation and leave you with no brakes!

Steering: Only really needs looking at for the above and adjustment of the steering stops on the front axle so larger tyres don't hit the radius arms on full lock.

If you've got, or want to go for, tyres larger than 32" dia then these will effect the overall gearing of the vehicle. Left with the standard transfer box & diff ratios it will struggle up hills (even on the motorway), will only do 30mph in 3rd (4th will be too tall and the engine will stuggle). You can either change both diffs and put 4.11: ratio diff in, this will bring both high and low range back to near standard. Or change the tranfer box for a 1.44:1 ratio box from a TD5 Defender, this will only change the high ratio for normal road driving but will leave the low range slightly over geared.

Skibum makes a good point about the extended bumpstops.  

[Skibum346]

Skibum makes a good point about the extended bumpstops.  

 :oops:

Aw... shucksss....


 :lol:

[rollazuki]

Take the lift kit out, only raise it an inch or two maximum, get a wheelarch flare kit, and cut the arches. You can get 35" tyres in with a 2" lift kit, why have all the extra grief, and make the car ready to roll over with loads of lift? :roll:

[Range Rover Blues]

@zuki has a point.  2" lift is pretty much standard fair but first check what lift you actually have, a standard car on 205s is 790mm floor to wheelarch eyebrow, most have sunk by now.

I'd weigh in on the side of a comprehnsive mod at 3", Cardan prop for the wide angle as well as the pulsing effect, wide angle rear prop, castor correction, brake lines and rear kickers or cranked arms.

Spent enough yet?

Gearsticks should be no different unless the body was lifted

[Sheddy]

And no-one has mentioned the panhard rod..........

[Skibum346]

And no-one has mentioned the panhard rod..........

B*gg*r!   :oops:

[bullfrog]

Why mention the panhard rod when it wll have moved the axle over by 4mm !!!!!!!!!! :?
How many LR chassis are acurate to 4mm ??????? :?
Lots of companys selling longer/adjustable panhard rods at silly prices. :shock:
Not worth it in my book unless you want some bling  :lol:

[Sheddy]

I lifted my Disco by 3" and if the front axle was moved by 4mm then it was the biggest 4mm I've ever seen!  Probably shifted by close on 30mm.

Now you've got me wondering if there was something wrong with it before the lift! :)

[Range Rover Blues]

Err, I'd say so yes.  I know that the front axle in the LSE is over to the driver's side, it's build tolerance.  Better still when you change height mode the centre steer point moves, so if you drop it after you park, the steering wheel moves with the suspension.