V8 into swb series 2

[benspray]

Hi all...

Ok so as some may be aware I was looking to swap the engine on my 2a, I had the choice of a 200tdi or a v8, well the tdi has now gone so Im left with the v8 (I still feel the tdi would have been a better conversion for my use but hey looking forward to that v8 burble :-)

So before I even start I have some questions regarding the conversion, I have bought a (full hopefully) conversion kit second hand - not sure of its make but looks the same as most I have seen before with extended engine brackets, the usual alloy adapter ring, spigot bush, re-drilled flywheel, and what I believe to be a 101 oil pump housing ie turns the oil filter away from the front diff....

So my questions to get this totally straight (Ive read so many other posts but got a bit confused by all the options.. :-) and possibly compile a bit of a faq for V8 fitting in a series 2.

Currently the 2a is in original (read knackered) condition, its a Jan 1962 model, I plan to keep it looking as near to standard as poss but dont mind what mechanicals are underneath as such, Id basically like to rebuild it using the strongest series parts that I can whilst retaining its true ID as far as the DVLA are converned...

So Engine:

1) Do I need to remove the battery tray and filter tray thing..
2) I currently have quite a thick brass topped rad in there - do I need to change this? whatever I do rad wise I guess I will need to fit a 16" blower fan on the front.
3) on the v8 (3.9 out of a 1992 range rover) can I get away with a standard Range rover timing cover and water pump or do I need to source a p6 water pump and crank pulley etc, ie for clearance issues??
4) Am I likely to need an oil cooler for off road use just rtvs etc really, but could mean lots of slow driving so may lack cooling?
5) I have this spigot bush with the kit, do I still need to modify the crank on the v8?
6) I currently have the RR 3.9 cast headers and also a nice set of P38 stainless headers are either of these usable?

Drivetrain:

7) I have the standard 2a gearbox, I have heard that I have to get a series 3 bellhousing for the conversion? something to do with the clutch slave cylinder arrangement? if so what parts do I need to source and what is involved?
8) Sticking with standard gearbox / diffs but larger 7.50r16 tyres is it likely to be usable, ie top speed / comfortable speed etc for road use or do I need to look for an overdrive (are there any good ones left!) or perhaps an ashcroft high ratio transfer kit..? I dont really want to use range rover diffs even though I have a spare pair as I want to retain the low ratio for off road use.
9) How much power is the gearbox and drivetrain good for, I will be using a 3.9 with a 4 barrel weber, mallory ignition, torquemax cam etc am I likely to get trouble (went through the whole depends how you drive it thing with the tdi and general consensus was that a v8 is kinder to the drivetrain than a tdi but how much kinder :-)
10) Current plan is to get some later axles or at least just fit 11" brakes onto the current ones, are the later axles ie post 81 series 3 axles any stronger?
11) I looked into fitting the spare range rover axles (with series diffs) but looked far too much hassle (plus at that stage potential DVLA issues) so sticking with series axles are there any usefull parts off the range rover axles (ie calipers, hubs etc etc) towards a future disc brake upgrade that I should remove before I sell / scrap them.


Body mods

12) Is anything other than trimming the footwells required?

[Rich_P]

A 3.9 is going to kill the Series transmission.  :shock: The 3.5 Litre is the best one to go for in my opinion, as it produces plenty of power as it is.

[Robbo]

A 3.9 is going to kill the Series transmission.  :shock: The 3.5 Litre is the best one to go for in my opinion, as it produces plenty of power as it is.

...it'll still break it!

[mark.yellow.series.3]

dont worry about killing anything, you can  break anything if you drive incorrctly, so be sensible and you should be ok.
i had to cut and reweld my footwell on the drivers side, because the defender V8 tubular manifolds woulndt fit.
i put the stage one grill on, to give me lots of room under the bonnet, and i fitted the defender V8 radiator ,but the original front can be retained, but i dont know how this is done.
11" brakes are a good idea, but i woulnd mess about with changing axles,this would lose you more DVLA points. overdrives are good but wont make your series feel any better at speed, i still like to cruse at 40mph, even though it will oull to over 70mph.

hope this helps

[Paul Woodward]

1) Yes you will need to remove the battery tray.
2) If the rad has 4 rows of tubes it will just about cope. It needs to be in perfect condition though. The 16" fan just about fits.
3) I used the P6 front/pump. Even this is close to the rad so I'm pretty sure the RR assy wont fit.
4) Yes cooling is marginal when driving slowly. My fan is on most of the time when laning. The oil cooler would be a good idea if you can find space for it!
5) Yes you will need to cut the spigot on the crank back to leave about a 1/4 inch long spigot to locate the flywheel.
6) The 3.9 has double downpipes doesn't it? If so they may not fit. I think you'll just have to try them. There isn't much room on the left hand side.
7) The adaptor plate should fit fine with the 2a bellhousing and clutch set up. A friend had a V8 in his 2a with the std setup.
8. The gearing will be too low for road use with the series diffs. I agree with you though, I have RR diffs and I find low ratio too high for offroad use especially with the tall tyres. I think the o/drive is the best option.
9) I think the gearbox will be marginal! You may get away with it if you use it gently. The 2a ( 2 synchro)box is supposed to be the strongest though.
10) I didn't find the 11" brakes much better than the 10" to be honest. I don't know if the later axles are any stronger.
11) I fitted the RR axles in the end. As you say it's a lot of work. If you use the original transmission, suspension and steering systems you will still be ok on the DVLA points system.
12) You have to trim the l/h footwell back to the support bracket to give clearance for the exhaust manifold. Everything else should clear.

Hope that helps and good luck with the project!

[benspray]

well new rad, and see how everything fits and get the grinder out for the water pump etc then.... basically going to have to see how a lot of this goes I guess as it seems a lot of the conversions are different..!
yes the 3.9 cast headers have 2 down pipes on each side, guess I will do away with them and give the P38 headers that I have a try, if they dont work (they are quite a large bore but are reasonably close to the block so may fit) if not Im back to early carb types (damn I binned 4 of those when I moved house in Jan this year :-(

I have a servo and twin line master cylinder sitting here so I will fit that as a starter, and upgrade the brakes if I need to from there, not sure how much better normal 11" brakes are but I do know that the 2.6/stage 1 front brakes which are from memory 3" wide x 11" stopped my old 3 ltr v6 series 3 well enough!!! :-)

Cheers

[landroverkeith]

:lol:  i found the v8 fitted into mine a treat easy peasy.........


well ok i bought it with it already in lol