Steering protection. Unholey or not?

[SnakeLogic]

I'm looking for a good steering protection bit.  Many on the market have cut-outs to allow mud and muck to flow through (in both forward and reverse) while others are a solid plate.  The thinking in the solid plate version being that it will slide more easily over obstacles.

Also, there seems to be a bit of a debate as to the merits of steel vs. aluminum.  

As always, I elicit your comments and suggestions.

[Henry Webster]

My un-holy reply is do you need one or not?!  My view is that strengthened streering bars of the Sumo or Dan Bar type better at protecting the steering.

You'll find that most competition vehicles do not have a steering guard as they are only another thing to get hung up and another bit of weight to carry around!

[drmike]

Hmm on the RR I had a hand made steering guard that was very open and hence didn't act as a plough in either direction. Once or twice it took the weight of the front end and was jolly useful. Although I had Rupert bars I don't think that they would have been as effective as teh guard was.

The one I have on the 90 is a PITA as it's a sheet and there's always mud and stuff accumulating. It too has taken teh weight of teh front end now and again.

So I'd disagree with Henry (which I am loath to do as he has vastly more expereince than me) but I'd go for a nice open guard which is what I'll make when I get round to it.

Mike

[Range Rover Blues]

General opinion is that with holes in for hot climate to alow air to circulate behind it and closed for cold climate as you are often replkcing the spoiler anyway.

I'd go aluminium, yes it will bend if you hit it but that's it's job.  Lighter and keeps it's look longer.

[Jim-Willy]

I've bent my steering twice with a steering guard on, i want sumo bars next...................

[SnakeLogic]

Solid advise all around, I'm sure.  Especially since ALL of you have vastly more experience at this than I do.

I've been looking at those steering damper relocation kits.  It seems to me that the stock position leaves the steering damper awfully vulnerable to damage, and that the guard would lower ground clearance even further.

Are those kits compatible with the Dan bars?

I can certainly see the point of avoiding too much weight on the front, as steering guard, winch bumper and winch all adds up to quite a bit of extra  poundage on the nose.

Also, as long as we're on the topic of underbody protection, are diff guards worthwhile?  I've seen a few versions available.  I don't do much driving on rocks, but I do tend to plow a trench with my differentials whenever I end up following a well-rutted trail (which is every time I venture off road).

As always, I highly value your input.

[Cal]

You can get a relocation kit with sumo bars, or wizard does a kit on his e-blag shop.

[Darren]

The advantage of a steering guard on a Disco is that it can usefully incorporate jacking and recovery points. Obviously not so important if you plan to fit a winch bumper.

I've had a solid plate, steel, steering guard fitted for nearly five years and it's never caused a problem. It's taken some pretty big hits without incident or damage.

[WoodyWolf]

I've had a Rebel steering guard fitted for 12 months now and it does take some hard hits(slight bow in the centre now),  It was the one that had recovery and Hi lift points on it which were useful when I only had a standard bumper. Had to remove them to fit a scorpion winch bumper and adapt it to fit. Diff guards I would fit as they are always in contact with the ground when on rutted surfaces.

[muddyweb]

I've always found that having holes in them makes them a bit easier to clean when they are full of mud.

As mentioned, they frontal steering guards only really protect the drag link and drop arm... the track rod is still a bit vulnerable.

Damper relocation kits won't be compatible with Dan Bars, as they slide over the top of the existing tube and as such will rotate.  They'd work OK with a Sumo bar.

[SnakeLogic]

OK, its time to reveal a little more of my ignorance.  Sumo bars are replacement steering rods, as opposed to Dan bars which slip OVER the stock rods?  Is this a brand name?  Where do I find them?

Of course, this all goes back to the question of whether a relocation of the steering damper is any better or worse than a protector for where it is.

[muddyweb]

Sumo Bars and Dan Bars are both brand names...  available from loads of places.   There are also then any number of heavy duty steering bars (equivalent in design to the Sumo) from loads of other places...  

You'll struggle to get a decent protection system for the steering damper in it's stock location, so moving it can be worthwhile...  that said, plenty of people don't and put up with the dents and dings... depends a lot on the type of off-road work you do.

[SnakeLogic]

OK, thanks.  A few minutes with Google and I was able to track down the Sumo bars.  One question though:  My steering rod (1995 300  Tdi Disco)has a double curve in it, and the Sumo bars are straight.  Is that going to work?  or do I need some sort of special adapter?[/list]

[muddyweb]

erm...  

Do you have a picture of it ?  (Your curved steering rod)

[Range Rover Blues]

Dan bars are supposed to spin when you are crossing an obstruction that catches them, that's whyt they fit over you existing rods and have grease nipples in them.

Relocating the steeing dampers can be done quite easily, if you have a steering guard then you drill a hole in it for the chassis braket and at the drop arm end of the drag link you fit the Defender drag link end with a fitting for a steering damper, thenm you fit a Defender steering damper.  The problem with relocatin the standard damper is the front drag link moves furthewr than the rear track rod, so the RRC/Disco damper is only just long enough if set up perfectly on a car with standard steering lock (not such a problem then if you have had to adjust your lock stops) and that's without considering any articulation.

On the downside I'm finding my front driver's side wheel wobbles on rh bends now, the damper ahead of axle doesn't work as well as it does behind the axle.

If you are worried about bashing it you can protect it a little by rotating the track rod so that the damper lies slightly above it.

[muddyweb]

you fit the Defender drag link end with a fitting for a steering damper, then you fit a Defender steering damper.

I think the Defender drag link is a different length, so you ought to fit one of them at the same time else you'll end up with steering with different locks left-right.

[Range Rover Blues]

They aren't a different length but depending on model year the threads are machined differently :roll:

Go on, ask me how I know.......