AuthorTopic: petrol  (Read 1863 times)

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Offline cherokeegraham

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« on: November 26, 2006, 11:05:12 »
I've been told that it's ok to run the series 2a on regular unleaded, is this right or should I use an additive?
Jeep Cherokee 4.0 limited. 3-4" lift, 31" Super Swampers, safari snorkel, bonnet mounted Hi-Lift jack, rock sliders, diff guard, TC guard, , Pro-comp ES9000 shocks, roof mounted spots, extended braided brake line, Prothane suspension bushes, lots of MUD!!!

'61 Land Rover Series 2 88" Ex Military. x 2 (half share)

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Offline Canada Al

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« Reply #1 on: November 26, 2006, 15:25:43 »
A standard 2 1/4 petrol is not designed for unleaded fuel . you can run this engine on unleaded but eventually you will burn the valve seats . you can use an additive or run one tank out of four with leaded petrol .
Alternatively you could fit hardend valve seats when you next have the head off .

Offline Robbo

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« Reply #2 on: November 26, 2006, 16:01:48 »
I agree with Al, but that said if you only do about a 1000 ayear it'll be ok for your retirement, but that said I'd go with unleaded and use the additives rather than super which seems to run a little lumpy sometimes...

yours currently switching from super to ordinary, 31 year block with unleaded head.
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Offline muddyweb

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« Reply #3 on: November 26, 2006, 16:28:47 »
Main thing for running on unleaded is to make sure your ignition timing is right for the grade of unleaded you run.

I can't remember off the top of my head, but I'll dig out the various timings for the engine (unless someone has them to hand :-))

As said, unless you are doing loads of miles, don't rush out and get an unleaded head conversion for it..   Run it on unleaded until you have problems...   I haven't had any issues yet, even without additives.
Tim Burt
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Offline cherokeegraham

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« Reply #4 on: November 26, 2006, 18:29:35 »
Cheers guys. Muddyweb, that would be really usefull, thanks.
Jeep Cherokee 4.0 limited. 3-4" lift, 31" Super Swampers, safari snorkel, bonnet mounted Hi-Lift jack, rock sliders, diff guard, TC guard, , Pro-comp ES9000 shocks, roof mounted spots, extended braided brake line, Prothane suspension bushes, lots of MUD!!!

'61 Land Rover Series 2 88" Ex Military. x 2 (half share)

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Offline Devon-Rover

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« Reply #5 on: November 26, 2006, 22:36:49 »
On the 7:1 engine the static timing for 90 - 95 RON fuel should be 6'BTDC
on the 8:1 engine the static timing for 90 - 95 RON fuel should be TDC.
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Offline Spacemud

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« Reply #6 on: November 29, 2006, 14:20:43 »
I use additive in my old MG and SIIa and haven't had any problems as yet. I was told additive in one out of four tanks would be fine and I haven't managed to prove that wrong so far!
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Offline MisterC

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« Reply #7 on: November 29, 2006, 20:38:07 »
I fitted an inline fuel catalyst thingy I got from ebay for a fiver and stopped putting the additive in.  I do around 8000 miles a year commuting to work every day in my 72 S3 petrol.  I know this won't really lubricate the valve seats like lead/an additive, but no problems so far.  I hope those aren't famous last words....
1972 SWB Petrol 2.25 SIII, safari top side windows, Limestone, FWH, 750xR16s, Weber carb, Kenlowe fan, Maplin DIY ignition amplifier and now overdrive.  Coming soon...(cheap) SU carb conversion and (cheap) electronic dizzy conversion (he said hopefully).

 






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