Fun, Friendly and Free
Welcome,
Guest
. Please
login
or
register
.
1 Hour
1 Day
1 Week
1 Month
Forever
Login with username, password and session length
News:
Forum back online. Please post!
Home
Forum
Battle
Search
Login
Register
Mud-club
»
Vehicle & Technical
»
Series Land Rovers
(Moderator:
Frankie-Boy
) »
petrol
Print
Pages: [
1
]
Go Down
Author
Topic: petrol (Read 1863 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
cherokeegraham
Posts: 199
Attack: 100
Defense: 100
Attack Member
Karma: +0/-0
Referrals: 0
petrol
«
on:
November 26, 2006, 11:05:12 »
I've been told that it's ok to run the series 2a on regular unleaded, is this right or should I use an additive?
Logged
Jeep Cherokee 4.0 limited. 3-4" lift, 31" Super Swampers, safari snorkel, bonnet mounted Hi-Lift jack, rock sliders, diff guard, TC guard, , Pro-comp ES9000 shocks, roof mounted spots, extended braided brake line, Prothane suspension bushes, lots of MUD!!!
'61 Land Rover Series 2 88" Ex Military. x 2 (half share)
FoDRoW member.
Canada Al
Posts: 137
Attack: 100
Defense: 100
Attack Member
Karma: +0/-0
Referrals: 0
petrol
«
Reply #1 on:
November 26, 2006, 15:25:43 »
A standard 2 1/4 petrol is not designed for unleaded fuel . you can run this engine on unleaded but eventually you will burn the valve seats . you can use an additive or run one tank out of four with leaded petrol .
Alternatively you could fit hardend valve seats when you next have the head off .
Logged
Robbo
Posts: 252
Attack: 100
Defense: 100
Attack Member
Karma: +0/-0
Referrals: 0
petrol
«
Reply #2 on:
November 26, 2006, 16:01:48 »
I agree with Al, but that said if you only do about a 1000 ayear it'll be ok for your retirement, but that said I'd go with unleaded and use the additives rather than super which seems to run a little lumpy sometimes...
yours currently switching from super to ordinary, 31 year block with unleaded head.
Logged
Daisy SWB series 3 station wagon, 1975 and pretty in mud
Eat a live toad the first thing in the morning and nothing worse will happen to you the rest of the day
muddyweb
Posts: 6382
Attack: 100
Defense: 100
Attack Member
Karma: +0/-0
Referrals: 0
petrol
«
Reply #3 on:
November 26, 2006, 16:28:47 »
Main thing for running on unleaded is to make sure your ignition timing is right for the grade of unleaded you run.
I can't remember off the top of my head, but I'll dig out the various timings for the engine (unless someone has them to hand :-))
As said, unless you are doing loads of miles, don't rush out and get an unleaded head conversion for it.. Run it on unleaded until you have problems... I haven't had any issues yet, even without additives.
Logged
Tim Burt
Muddyweb
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
www.muddyweb.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
cherokeegraham
Posts: 199
Attack: 100
Defense: 100
Attack Member
Karma: +0/-0
Referrals: 0
petrol
«
Reply #4 on:
November 26, 2006, 18:29:35 »
Cheers guys. Muddyweb, that would be really usefull, thanks.
Logged
Jeep Cherokee 4.0 limited. 3-4" lift, 31" Super Swampers, safari snorkel, bonnet mounted Hi-Lift jack, rock sliders, diff guard, TC guard, , Pro-comp ES9000 shocks, roof mounted spots, extended braided brake line, Prothane suspension bushes, lots of MUD!!!
'61 Land Rover Series 2 88" Ex Military. x 2 (half share)
FoDRoW member.
Devon-Rover
Posts: 748
Attack: 100
Defense: 100
Attack Member
Karma: +0/-0
Tavistock
Referrals: 0
petrol
«
Reply #5 on:
November 26, 2006, 22:36:49 »
On the 7:1 engine the static timing for 90 - 95 RON fuel should be 6'BTDC
on the 8:1 engine the static timing for 90 - 95 RON fuel should be TDC.
Logged
Rowan.
"Jemima" 2.25 Petrol SWB, ACR rear Silencer, 235/85 Macho's, MAP Capstan & HD Bumper, Tweeked suspension, CB, Light Bar.
"Baker" 2.6 Petrol LWB (former Tow Truck)
"Lizi" 4.2 V8i Discovery, Gone but not forgotten.
"Kate" 1985 Ninety 4.2 V8 Auto, Stainless exhaust, Ashcroft Tunnel, Mud console, Polmar Venus CB, HD Steering bars, Terrafirma Steering damper, D44 Winch Bumper, Superwinch EP9.5, Superwinch Wireless controls, QT Diff Guards. 'More toys to come'
Vorsprung Duch Ducktape.
My website
Searle Safari Info source.
Spacemud
Posts: 243
Attack: 100
Defense: 100
Attack Member
Karma: +0/-0
Rhoose
Referrals: 0
petrol
«
Reply #6 on:
November 29, 2006, 14:20:43 »
I use additive in my old MG and SIIa and haven't had any problems as yet. I was told additive in one out of four tanks would be fine and I haven't managed to prove that wrong so far!
Logged
Spacemud misses his Land Rovers :o(
MisterC
Posts: 34
Attack: 100
Defense: 100
Attack Member
Karma: +0/-0
Referrals: 0
petrol
«
Reply #7 on:
November 29, 2006, 20:38:07 »
I fitted an inline fuel catalyst thingy I got from ebay for a fiver and stopped putting the additive in. I do around 8000 miles a year commuting to work every day in my 72 S3 petrol. I know this won't really lubricate the valve seats like lead/an additive, but no problems so far. I hope those aren't famous last words....
Logged
1972 SWB Petrol 2.25 SIII, safari top side windows, Limestone, FWH, 750xR16s, Weber carb, Kenlowe fan, Maplin DIY ignition amplifier and now overdrive. Coming soon...(cheap) SU carb conversion and (cheap) electronic dizzy conversion (he said hopefully).
Print
Pages: [
1
]
Go Up
Mud-club
»
Vehicle & Technical
»
Series Land Rovers
(Moderator:
Frankie-Boy
) »
petrol
SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal