AuthorTopic: problems with my series IIa please help  (Read 2047 times)

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Offline mikeh1975

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problems with my series IIa please help
« on: December 17, 2006, 17:12:00 »
hi all

i have had some problems with my series landy, it had little or no breaks so ive changed all the fluid, and changed all the pads, the pedal feals a little firmer after a couple of pumps, but when you drive along it goes very spongy and sometimes the pedal doesnt work at all, any ideas?

thanks

mike
barwell, leicestershire

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Offline Devon-Rover

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problems with my series IIa please help
« Reply #1 on: December 17, 2006, 17:46:58 »
Have a check of your adjustment. and also the pedal freeplay.

Jack each wheel up in turn and adjust them in turn. i.e. untill they lock then a couple clicks off, so they are just rubbing.

The pedal freeply is that when the brakes are off, the pedal should just be able to move up against the Pushrod on the MC.
Rowan.

"Jemima" 2.25 Petrol SWB, ACR rear Silencer, 235/85 Macho's, MAP Capstan & HD Bumper, Tweeked suspension, CB, Light Bar.
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Offline mikeh1975

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problems with my series IIa please help
« Reply #2 on: December 17, 2006, 17:55:07 »
we adjusted the drums but havn`tajustedthe mc how do i go about that?

thanks

mike


Quote from: "Devon-Rover"
Have a check of your adjustment. and also the pedal freeplay.

Jack each wheel up in turn and adjust them in turn. i.e. untill they lock then a couple clicks off, so they are just rubbing.

The pedal freeply is that when the brakes are off, the pedal should just be able to move up against the Pushrod on the MC.
barwell, leicestershire

When cheese gets its picture taken, what does it say?

If  4 out of 5 people suffer from diarrhea does that mean the fifth one enjoys it?

If Barbie is so popular, why do you have to buy her friends?

If everything seems to be going well, you have obviously overlooked
something

Offline Devon-Rover

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problems with my series IIa please help
« Reply #3 on: December 17, 2006, 18:01:16 »
If you have the haynes or the Workshop manual it should all be there under master cylinder free play and pedal height adjustment. If not say and i'll dig out the relevent bits off the S2C forum.
Rowan.

"Jemima" 2.25 Petrol SWB, ACR rear Silencer, 235/85 Macho's, MAP Capstan & HD Bumper, Tweeked suspension, CB, Light Bar.
"Baker" 2.6 Petrol LWB (former Tow Truck)
"Lizi" 4.2 V8i Discovery, Gone but not forgotten.
"Kate" 1985 Ninety 4.2 V8 Auto, Stainless exhaust, Ashcroft Tunnel, Mud console, Polmar Venus CB, HD Steering bars, Terrafirma Steering damper, D44 Winch Bumper, Superwinch EP9.5, Superwinch Wireless controls, QT Diff Guards. 'More toys to come'


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Offline mikeh1975

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problems with my series IIa please help
« Reply #4 on: December 17, 2006, 18:12:35 »
thanks i`ll have a look, and just incase can you post it please?

mike


Quote from: "Devon-Rover"
If you have the haynes or the Workshop manual it should all be there under master cylinder free play and pedal height adjustment. If not say and i'll dig out the relevent bits off the S2C forum.
barwell, leicestershire

When cheese gets its picture taken, what does it say?

If  4 out of 5 people suffer from diarrhea does that mean the fifth one enjoys it?

If Barbie is so popular, why do you have to buy her friends?

If everything seems to be going well, you have obviously overlooked
something

Offline Devon-Rover

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problems with my series IIa please help
« Reply #5 on: December 17, 2006, 18:23:08 »
Right then.

To check the brake pedal height it is 6.25 inches from the floor without mats to the lowest part of the brake pedal which is usually the front. Then check the master cylinder push rod clearance it should just rattle at rest.

To adjust then you need to remove the top cover over the pedal box, and with two spanners you can turn the nuts untill the pedal height and freeplay is right.

With new shoes some spongeness is common place and will take a little time to wear in.

next question if that doesn't work, is all the springs on the shoes put on correctly.
Rowan.

"Jemima" 2.25 Petrol SWB, ACR rear Silencer, 235/85 Macho's, MAP Capstan & HD Bumper, Tweeked suspension, CB, Light Bar.
"Baker" 2.6 Petrol LWB (former Tow Truck)
"Lizi" 4.2 V8i Discovery, Gone but not forgotten.
"Kate" 1985 Ninety 4.2 V8 Auto, Stainless exhaust, Ashcroft Tunnel, Mud console, Polmar Venus CB, HD Steering bars, Terrafirma Steering damper, D44 Winch Bumper, Superwinch EP9.5, Superwinch Wireless controls, QT Diff Guards. 'More toys to come'


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Offline mikeh1975

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problems with my series IIa please help
« Reply #6 on: December 17, 2006, 20:26:26 »
i ajusted it the pedal height is right now, but the pedal still feals soft and could there be air in the system still?, would it be worth me buying one of those auto bleeder kits? or would it be the mc?

mike

Quote from: "Devon-Rover"
Right then.

To check the brake pedal height it is 6.25 inches from the floor without mats to the lowest part of the brake pedal which is usually the front. Then check the master cylinder push rod clearance it should just rattle at rest.

To adjust then you need to remove the top cover over the pedal box, and with two spanners you can turn the nuts untill the pedal height and freeplay is right.

With new shoes some spongeness is common place and will take a little time to wear in.

next question if that doesn't work, is all the springs on the shoes put on correctly.
barwell, leicestershire

When cheese gets its picture taken, what does it say?

If  4 out of 5 people suffer from diarrhea does that mean the fifth one enjoys it?

If Barbie is so popular, why do you have to buy her friends?

If everything seems to be going well, you have obviously overlooked
something

Offline Devon-Rover

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problems with my series IIa please help
« Reply #7 on: December 17, 2006, 23:28:25 »
Is it a CB or a CV master? as both have different bleeding techniques. Also have you tried working from the furthest away to the closest wheel? or maybe tried to reverse to see if that helps, also if you raise the front of the vehicle up then that is said to help bleed them.
Series brakes are a very tricky and horrible job to do, as there is lots of this that have to be right to get it all functioning correctly.
Rowan.

"Jemima" 2.25 Petrol SWB, ACR rear Silencer, 235/85 Macho's, MAP Capstan & HD Bumper, Tweeked suspension, CB, Light Bar.
"Baker" 2.6 Petrol LWB (former Tow Truck)
"Lizi" 4.2 V8i Discovery, Gone but not forgotten.
"Kate" 1985 Ninety 4.2 V8 Auto, Stainless exhaust, Ashcroft Tunnel, Mud console, Polmar Venus CB, HD Steering bars, Terrafirma Steering damper, D44 Winch Bumper, Superwinch EP9.5, Superwinch Wireless controls, QT Diff Guards. 'More toys to come'


Vorsprung Duch Ducktape. My website Searle Safari Info source.

Offline mikeh1975

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problems with my series IIa please help
« Reply #8 on: December 18, 2006, 13:19:07 »
i think its a cv , it feeds direct from the dual reservoir, that also feeds the clutch, we did the front passanger the drivers side, the the tear passanger and rear drivers side as discribed in the book, im going to see if a frien of mine will lend me his bleeder equipment, and give that a try?, as we also recheck`d to see if there were any leeks just incase it may have been a brake cylinderbut we couldnt find anything

mike


Quote from: "Devon-Rover"
Is it a CB or a CV master? as both have different bleeding techniques. Also have you tried working from the furthest away to the closest wheel? or maybe tried to reverse to see if that helps, also if you raise the front of the vehicle up then that is said to help bleed them.
Series brakes are a very tricky and horrible job to do, as there is lots of this that have to be right to get it all functioning correctly.
barwell, leicestershire

When cheese gets its picture taken, what does it say?

If  4 out of 5 people suffer from diarrhea does that mean the fifth one enjoys it?

If Barbie is so popular, why do you have to buy her friends?

If everything seems to be going well, you have obviously overlooked
something

 






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