AuthorTopic: lpg mixture  (Read 3592 times)

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Offline gtomo2

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lpg mixture
« on: January 06, 2007, 14:58:04 »
Thought i would try on here as well as its the same engine.
Anyone know how to turn the lpg up on a single point injector system as the lpg guy turned my right down when i had problems with it but now its running great on petrol but is very underpowered on gas to the point were if i floor the loud pedel the engine dies through lack of gas so i need to turn it up.
Thanks
Mr Graeme Thomas (tomo)
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Offline jjsaul

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lpg mixture
« Reply #1 on: January 06, 2007, 17:09:54 »
should be a screw/knob on the pipe between the vaporiser and where the gas  goes into the engine...
James

...lovin dirty days out...

1983 OneTen V8 Station Wagon 3.5 (LPG)
1972 Range Rover V8
1992 Range Rover 4.6 (LPG)
1978 Range Rover Carmichael Commando 6x4
1972 Range Rover - Major project, FOR SALE
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Previously: Range Rovers 1988, 1990 and others...
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Offline barnhill4x4

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lpg mixture
« Reply #2 on: January 06, 2007, 17:39:25 »
There is a screw on the face of the Vapouriser, you turn that out, you may or may not have the valve in the pipe from the vapouriser to the mixer, if you do, undo that a bit too. Be careful if the mixture is too weak it will backfire

Offline gtomo2

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« Reply #3 on: January 06, 2007, 22:55:09 »
yea the mixture is weak thats why i need to turn it up as i am laning tomorrow so need it. and yes it does back fire when changing over to lpg from petrol
Mr Graeme Thomas (tomo)
300 TDi Discovery - So i can go fording
Stop laughing put the camera down AND PASS ME THE TOW ROPE !! PLEASE

Offline Range Rover Blues

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lpg mixture
« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2007, 15:34:55 »
If it backfires on changeover that's becuase it takes a second for the gas to get to the engine, that's all.  Our runs lean, they do that :? and that's why I fitted a multi point to the LSE
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
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Offline Rossko

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« Reply #5 on: January 22, 2007, 22:28:34 »
A single point system need not run lean IF its set up properly and was sized to suit the engine.  You will never do it by ear, you should get someone with an exhaust analyser to have a go.  Systems like this should ideally be checked annually, and will almost certainly drift out of tune anyway in a couple of years as springs and rubbers age.

Most single points have three adjustment places.  One (usually the bigger screw) on the vaporiser controls the idle mixture - its a simple needle valve allowing a constant trickle of fuel, because the vaporiser isn't very well controlled at low demand.  This is the LAST adjustment to make in seqeunce!  Sometimes marked 'min' or 'minimo' on italian made units; screw in to lean off, screw out to enrich.

The other adjustment on the vaporiser controls the fuel pressure under normal-to-large demands.  Rarely needs adjusting.  Not even present on all makes.

If this is a manual system, without an electronic stepper motor to control fuelling, there is usually a big adjusting screw in the vapour path to the mixer at the throttle - somewhere at either end of the vapour hose, or in the middle, or at a Y-junction.   Set this for best mixture at around 3000rpm with the exhaust analyser, then allow engine to idle and adjust the idle screw for best mixture.  Then re-check - it's always a compromise of some sort.

If it's an electronic system with a stepper motor, a few can be recalibrated without extra equipment, but you will need the makers manual.  Most will need some software from the makers used with a laptop.

Vaporisers have a limited life - maybe 60,000 miles or three years before the rubbers in some get trashed.   If that's happened, it just won't set up properly.   Buy a new one, don't bother attempting to rebuild, £100 maybe.

Hope yours just needs a tickle, but do try to have it done on an analyser.

Another good reason for a catastrophic loss of power when pushed hard is a restriction in flow of liquid from tank - checked for squashed pipework.  Oh, and has the LPG filter ever been changed?  Can also be caused by a faulty solenoid not fully opening.  This is a fairly dramatic effect - all seems well until fuel demand passes a critical threshold then pweh, it dies.  This assumes the tank valves, pipe sizes, etc. were originally specced big enough for this engine.  If you don't have this effect like a huge flat spot, this ain't the problem.

Before you do ANY of that give the ignition system a birthday - LPG will show up weaknesses in the sparks that petrol is more forgiving of  :)

cheers
Ross Kennedy
GLASS
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Offline gtomo2

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« Reply #6 on: January 23, 2007, 18:33:44 »
Thanks for the heads up rossko. it had a full 10 year service and new plugs points leads dissy rotor arm etc just before the test. System was proffesionally installed so no worrys on in the departent. It was just that i had a misfire on it and it failed the emmissions test on gas. so he truned the mixture down as we thought it was over fueling but found the timing to be out by 42 degs. And when it was corrected the gas was underpowered as the mixture was turned right down. but all fixed and sorted now. Thanks
Mr Graeme Thomas (tomo)
300 TDi Discovery - So i can go fording
Stop laughing put the camera down AND PASS ME THE TOW ROPE !! PLEASE

Offline Range Rover Blues

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« Reply #7 on: January 24, 2007, 23:32:38 »
A single point should, in theory run a lot better than a draw-through system, so you need to cxheck what's fitted.  Blue has a draw through and it's well out of date. Without either the lambda contolled stepper or that weird orange thing that Chris Perfect sell you cannot avoid the power loss at high demand without running way too rich at idle.
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

 






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