dashboard stoped working

[ross501]

took the landy out this morning and after about 20 miles the fuel and temp gague have stopped working both at the bottom looked at all the cables all seem fine any help ment to be out in it tomorrow

[lightweight-love]

hmm strange they both went at same time, was it wet? could be a earth related problem? infact not much else it could be!? right?

[ross501]

everything else on the dash works fine checked the earths

[lightweight-love]

do you think it cud be worth double checking earths? get a few jump cables out and hard-wire earths to negative terminal on battery? do the fuel gauge and tempo gauge share any wiring?

[ross501]

i have done that from battery to the back of the gagues  still nothing they share the earth wiring with the dash and all other lights work

[lightweight-love]

Are all your dash instruments linked to the ignition? or can the lights work without the ignition being on?

[candpdoyle]

might be a dumb question?? but are the brake lights and indicators still working? They are al on the same fuse circuit... mine go regularly and just need to wiggle the fuse and bobs your uncle..

Nearly all my series vehicles have done this


Chris

[ross501]

everything else on the landy works all the light  heater and wipers

[hobbit]

Voltage regulator?

[muddyjames]

I used to have this problem on my series landy. If I pulled the top of the dash out as much as it would whilst still bolted on the guages would move up to where they should be. If I took the dash out it worked fine no problems. As soon as I bolted the dash back in they stopped again. I just used to drive along and prize the top out only by a few mm and read the gauges and then let go again.

[ross501]

will the regulator stop them working is there a way to test it

[MisterC]

I agree with hobbit, almost certainly the voltage regulator/stabilizer.  This is fixed to the back of the speedo and supplies the power for both the fuel and temp gauges.  You'd need a multimeter to test, but you should see a steady c. 10 volts on the output wire (light green) when the ignition is on.  Feed wire (green) is fed from the same fuse that feeds the brake lights, so if they are working you know the fuse is ok, although it is worth double checking all fuses (there's only 4), as over time people add/move accessories around and the fuse connections then don't match the wiring diagram.  They're pretty cheap to replace, or you could consider a solid state version, some of whcih are advertised on eBay as voltage stabilizers.  Hope this helps.

[ross501]

have ordered a voltage regulator today hopefully it will all be okay after