RRC Rear Xmember

[Range Rover Ron]

Mud-Clubbers..........

I've just bought a new replacement rear xmember for my RRC.
I've not done this job before and will rely on a friend to do the welding.
Has anyone done this before, any tips or advice will be much appreciated.
I'll be doing it on my driveway.

Cheers...............

[sean m]

Done mine at christmas make sure you drill out any spotwelds and take your time to make sure you have cut any other welds off. Mine is a fairly worn vehicle so to get new crossmember in i took off rear lights, and cut off bottom of light housing in the crease line on one side. When re welded and ground down and filled canot see weld. Take photos of crossmember before removing and tale gate springs its amasing what you forget and any referance can save a lot of time. Did not brace any of the rear body it did not move and tail gate closes fine and margins around tail gate are as they were when started

[big rob]

Where did you get your xmember from as I need to do this job one day.

[Range Rover Ron]

Hello sean,

thanks for the info.

did you measure the gaps around the tailgate before you took it off.

I'll take loads of photos before I grab a spanner or grinder!

Big Rob.............

I got the Xmamber from Overlandrs in Liverpool, not sure if they'll do mail order.
Most palces should have them though.
Try Alan on 0151 476 7002

Cheers..................

[sean m]

I just made a gauge to put in gaps so when i finnished just put gauge back in and tightened tail gate bolts. Another way is to have tail gate bolts slack close tail gate alter gaps then tighten bolts. I left floor and petrol tank in and were floor attaches to crossmember drilled out spot welds along crossmember and about 18in in floor area so floor could be lifted up slightly, this way you can use floor as guide to set up crossmember in proper possition and metal strip that holds on bottom rubber seal. If you go to www.landrover.ee in top tool bar click varia then kasulic failid then cars,
you can bring up all landrover workshop manuals, in range rover body chassis manual it will show you were factory welds are so you know were to cut and re weld

[Range Rover Ron]

Hello Sean,

That web site is brilliant, thanks.

Are there any issues with the body "dropping" when you pull the Xmember away?
Can you lift it back?
Will the bolts set the position?
I'm renewing the floor at the same time, probably with chequere-plate.
Probably have a go at it this weekend if it does not snow!

Cheers......................

[sean m]

It depends on who you talk to some say its an issue one i read said he could not shut rear doors after fitting new crossmember.That seems a bit severe because the crossmember on mine was so rusty on one side it fell apart when i took it off and was not supporting anything, and i had been driving car like this for months. When i renewed rear x member everything shut and lined up as it should, so nothing had moved and it was un supported while being driven for months.

[jjsaul]

replaced rear xmember one of ours and nothing moved...the old one was that rusty it wasnt supporting anything!

[Difflock]

Ronnie,Iam doing one right now over in sunny Widnes but there was nowt much left of the old one,so I dont think it was even supporting anythink,I did notice that once I had tack welded the new one in (also bought from Liverpool landrover)the rear doors shut better!!,I also have to do SOME welding on the rear floor and the floor sides where they meet the inner wings,here are a few things that might make the job go a little easier

1:Take off one rear wing for easy re-installation of the new one(pretty straight forward,2 bolts under the wheelarch where it meets the wing,1 at the bottom where the mud flap bracket meets the wing,4 or 5 screws along the top of the wing from inside and chisel the rivets on the side of the cowl that the rear lights bolt onto),depending on your model (93 on)the fuel tank filler rubber grommet is a pig to get out  :roll:  :roll:
2:Check the hole centres on the new x member chassis mounting brackets,if its like the one I bought they need to be adjusted bigger with a lump hammer as they wont line up with the ones on the chassis  
3:If the x member has been "gone" for a while there may be a spot of body sag at the rear,I positioned the new one without the rubber mounts in first,tacked it in position then jacked the cross member up one side at a time the get the bushes in.
4:Most important one this,after painting/treating the inside blank off the open ends of the new one as they are open when new,just like the originals and we all know what happens to them  :D  :D  :D

If I come across anythink else this week I will let ya know