Suspension setup?

[smo]

As i'm rebuilding my 90 (post crash) i shall be changing her quite a lot. I intend on going truck cab, full cage etc and plan on running at lease 35/36" tyres.

So - what is the best suspension setup to go for, is it best to go firm but with relocation cones, or go soft long springs that wobble about, possibly 3 link (altho cost is a limiting factor) or is there a better solution, the X-eng X-spring possibly???

Suggestions and comments appreciated :)

[Eeyore]

What is it you're trying to achive with the vehicle?

This'll largely dictate which way you want to go with the suspension.

Cheers
 8)
Eeyore

[Muddy]

i like progressive springs but each to there own. You really need to build your motor and get it 99% done and then you can measure your sprung weights to get the best springs you can.

[smo]

Itll be a challenge vehicle of sorts, low speed technical & winch challenges, throw in some RTV's etc too for good measure!

[paul_humphreys]

I run a Gwyn Lewis kit, very good. I know someone who runs a Max Traction kit, again good and passes the ARC rules as you can not have the springs dislocating.

Paul

[smo]

Ah yes, i'd forgotten about silly things like the ARC rules, thanks for the reminder Paul.

[CJ]

...and i think Max traction have there non dislocating 3link out soon too ??

 8)

[SteveG]

Even though it's mainly going to be for Challenge events I'm going to assume that you'll be driving to and from events. If that's the case then my view is that long soft springs ala Max Traction aren't great for on-road use. Also if you've done any slow technical sessions on a side slope in a Challenge events you'll know that soft springs aren't that great for this too. Progressive springs help with this, but the choice for your height needs etc becomes limited.

I like the idea of X-Eng's springs as you put the springs on for best road use and you get downward pressure too. I haven't tried them yet so I have no opinion on how good they are.

Gwyn's rear shock mounts are good in action and are cost effective too. Chenging out the A bar joint helps significantly too and is ok on-road. Some have replaced A-Frame for rose joints and is good, but again this affects on-road handling. For rear radius arms either ones like the QT services rose joints or X-Eng's X-Joint seem to give best articulation. My experience from rose joints when running a front 3-Link is that need to be changed out every 6-12 months. The polybush on the X-Joint is 15 pounds so it'll be interesting to see if this approach works out better cost wise.

For the front I personally do like a 3-Link, not so keen on bolt on kits due to price and they sit lower than weld on kits. Having driven a 3-Link on road I found it to be ok handling wise - I found the Simex affected things more :roll:   If you are worried this can easily be overcome by fitting a dislocating anti-roll bar for long journeys between events. This is where you need to find someone happy to build you a custom 3-Link. Someone like Protection and Performance may build you 3-Link mounts into their tubular chassis (assuming that you need to replace your chassis from your other post!) IIRC they have a lot of experience of racing as well as cage building.

The QT Services front shock turrets work very well with long shocks and as the shock is now outside the spring you could fit the X-Eng springs on the front too.

Good luck with having the fun of specing out your vehicle and then getting to try it in action :)  :)

Cheers

Steve

[simonred90]

i'd try to take as many different setups in different trucks out as you can. that way you'll get a feel for what you like and dislike.
my suspension is as basic as it can be yet handles challenge events superbly.

[SteveG]

Sure, but you'd be surprised what a good suspension set up can do. A Friend runs a Range Rover with 3-Link front, jointed rear arms and modified rear suspension with open diffs and goes places a normal or average modded 90 would need lockers to do.

As you know a pair of lockers and all the ashcroft kit to make it bomb proof would set you back about 2.5-3K pounds.

Cheers

Steve

[smo]

Hmm, its swings and roundabouts really with this because if you blow a large wad on suspension you can possibly do without lockers for a large part, however the alternative is spend less on suspension and get lockers instead.

There is always going to be a compromise, i'm just not sure where or how yet!

[SteveG]

There is always going to be a compromise, i'm just not sure where or how yet!

Very true, how easy it would be if we all had bottomless wallets!  

Have you heard about your Defender yet. If you need to sell your rear door seperately let me know as I'll buy it off you. :)

I saw your post ref bulhead and rear tub. Have you thought about doing a king cab instead?? You get more room for storing stuff etc that a TC and you could use your exiting roof and with some metal work in the tub the problem would be solved.

Also I don't know how tall you are but check that you like the room you get in a TC first before going down this route. A king cab may be the way to go.

You'll have no problem selling your rear seats, carpet door etc and I would recommend selling them on ebay, rather than LR forums for best price.

Cheers

Steve

[paul_humphreys]

If its for winch comps, then just spend the money on a very good hydraulic winch set up.

Paul

[smo]

Cat D write off so i shall be retaining salvage and repairing her. I'll let you know when the door is up for grabs.

As for king cab, its somthing i am considering however i still need a rear tub, bulkhead and roof as mine is a bulkheadless CSW which is worth a lot more unbutchered!

[smo]

If its for winch comps, then just spend the money on a very good hydraulic winch set up.

Paul

I intend on going hydraulic with either PTO or engine driven pump but i want it to be good all round, not just build it specifically for winch challenges etc.

[iomlr]

http://www.gigglepin4x4.net/8274/twinmotor.htm

what about this? electric and Bl00dy quick

[smo]

http://www.gigglepin4x4.net/8274/twinmotor.htm

what about this? electric and Bl00dy quick

Bloody expensive too. I'll stick to hydraulic if i'm gonna blow a huge wad of money on it thanks!

[iomlr]

Not that bad really is it? by the time u have done the hydrolic system and up'd the pump and what not u wont be too far of the price of the above will you?

[smo]

Not that bad really is it? by the time u have done the hydrolic system and up'd the pump and what not u wont be too far of the price of the above will you?

Price might be similar but in my opinion a good hydraulic system is unbeatable....this is of course debatable from person to person!

[iomlr]

each to there own i guess hense there are so many kits/ options out there!