2 styles of AVM I think but they are pritty simular, the early type has a long body and thin metal end cap and is probubly much better built than the later type with the thick end with plastic turny thing which if its like mine will be weeping oil in an incurable fassion. If it was the later type of course you probubly wouldnt have known it was an AVM hub as the badge would have probubly fallen off by now - clever really, the hub delables itself before falling apart so onlookers can't tell who made that [!Expletive Deleted!] hub!
Basicly engage 4x2 and spin the wheel till it unlocks (seems trivial but will mean the hub is less likely to fall to bits when removed causing you to wonder how it was held together for the next 15 minutes) unbolt the 6 or so bolts that hold the endcap in place and remove. If it is the later type they will be specal nasty alan bolts which you've probubly just mashed removing them. They are avalable in the service kit for these hubs along with new seals - they are ment to be replaced every time but use your discression. These later hubs are the same as the superwinch type (which are built under licance by AVM) so the parts are avalabe from them if not on eBay or somewhere. Once the endplate is removed you should be able to see the end of the halfshaft in the middle, it'll have a split pin or circlip through it and some sort of washer thing behind it - remove. Then undo the 6 bolts holding the base of the FWH to the hub (ie the normal hub/drive flange bolts) and you should be able to remove the FWH body. You should be able to see the outer hub nut (as these hold the vehicles weight you should put the axle on stands before undoing them).
It goes Nut>locktab>nut.thrust washer>wheelbaring. As I found on a friends vehicle you might want to remove all the nuts check it has the proper thick thrust washer behind it (its a chunky version of the lock tap, my friends landy had another lock tab instead thanks to a bodging preveous owner - it had caused the problem we were investigating as it had bent but he didn't spot it as he had never seen how it was ment to be so thought it was fine.) Might aswell go one stage further and remove the hole hub (just pull!) to see the bearings themselfs and give em some new grease. If they look warn the pair costs a tenner so I'd change them if they wern't nice smooth and shiny.
For tightening the hubs up I tend to tighten the inner nut with the box spanner in my hand, as tight as you can easily with your hand seems to be about right, check it by rocking/spinning the road wheel to just take out the play. Then fit the lock tab and titen the outer nut with a bar through the box spanner and do it proper tight. Recheck for bearing play, lock the (*brand new*) locktab if fine.
Why use new locktabs? I know alot of people don't seem to bother prefering instead to reuse the one thats been used about 20 times but they cost about 15p!!! Buy ten with your next paddocks order and you'll always have a fresh one spare for years. The bearings will probubly stay tighter longer too. (sorry, pet hate of mine, along with the fact the preveous owner on every landy i've worked on used a chissel to tighten the nuts, box spanners are easy to buy and do a nicer job!)
As its the front wheel if the play wont come out its probubly the swivel pins not the wheel barings. They only tend to wobble verticaly rather than everywhere. You can tell its the wheel barings by getting an asistant to wobble the wheel whilst you feal the gap between the brake drum/backplate. If theres play there its the wheel barings. (of course its a series landy so it'll probubly have play everywhere!)
