AuthorTopic: TD5 Hairline Crack @ Engine Casing  (Read 706 times)

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Offline landroverclan

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TD5 Hairline Crack @ Engine Casing
« on: April 06, 2007, 16:41:21 »
It's a 1999 model TD5.
Found that this is the source of the leak.
What was the cause of it, overtightening of the bolt ?
Can it be sealed off using what they called '2 tonne glue' ??
or can it be welded (alloy) ?
beside replacing the cover, what other possible options ??

Thanxs All !!
Land Rover Clan

Offline Range Rover Blues

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TD5 Hairline Crack @ Engine Casing
« Reply #1 on: April 06, 2007, 18:31:53 »
The problem with welding will be distortion and I doubt that you can get right in to t edge of the casting without removing it.

So that leaves Epoxy type glues/resins or a new part.

If you can get it clean then you might get away with glue, but for how long?
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

Offline drmike

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TD5 Hairline Crack @ Engine Casing
« Reply #2 on: April 06, 2007, 20:51:31 »
Well if I can cheer you up I fixed a number of small holes in my diff pan using a sort of chemical metal. I can't recall what it's Called but it's an epoxy putty that sets very hard, will withstand high temerature fluctuations and can allegedly be drilled once set.

I drained the oil down, cleaned everything up as best I could with carb cleaner and pressed the putty in as hard as I could. Two years later it is still OK but of course it doesn't get wildly hot and it's in no way pressurised.

Mike

Offline J.D.

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TD5 Hairline Crack @ Engine Casing
« Reply #3 on: April 06, 2007, 22:10:08 »
Quote from: "drmike"
Well if I can cheer you up I fixed a number of small holes in my diff pan using a sort of chemical metal. I can't recall what it's Called but it's an epoxy putty that sets very hard, will withstand high temerature fluctuations and can allegedly be drilled once set.

I drained the oil down, cleaned everything up as best I could with carb cleaner and pressed the putty in as hard as I could. Two years later it is still OK but of course it doesn't get wildly hot and it's in no way pressurised.

Mike


Magic Metal and Rust Putty, both available from Halfords.
J.D.
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Offline drmike

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TD5 Hairline Crack @ Engine Casing
« Reply #4 on: April 06, 2007, 22:14:49 »
This was an easi-bond product - steel rod available from Saw & Weld in telford.

Damn good it is too.

Mike

Offline extreme90

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TD5 Hairline Crack @ Engine Casing
« Reply #5 on: April 07, 2007, 00:11:19 »
put it this way.....my crank keyway on the old 200 broke away and took a healthy chunk of crank away with it aswel....for 3 years metal-set held it alltogether and the timing never slipped  :shock:
and thats with me giving it some serious abuse  :shock:
until the block cracked then game over...next 200 please.... :lol:
but seriously...that gives you a idea how strong it is  :wink:
dan
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Offline Range Rover Blues

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TD5 Hairline Crack @ Engine Casing
« Reply #6 on: April 07, 2007, 02:02:29 »
Lordy I just thought, a mate of mine is selling these aluminium brazing sticks at the moment, they are claimed to be damn good.
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

 






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