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110 rear tank stone guard
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Topic: 110 rear tank stone guard (Read 10461 times)
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V8MoneyPit
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110 rear tank stone guard
«
on:
December 02, 2004, 17:18:31 »
Got to replace the fuel tank on the 110 'cos it's sprung a leak. The V8 uses enough juice without fuel consumption while standing still :lol:
I see there is a cover over it. Do I need this fitted or is it best left off? Looks like a bit of a rust trap to me. Any thoughts?
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Rgds
Steve
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Xtremeteam
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110 rear tank stone guard
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Reply #1 on:
December 02, 2004, 19:57:02 »
That "cover" is actually holding the fuel tank in,2 or 3 bolts in2 the back xmember & the same at the front,since ur replacing it due 2 corrosionm get a galvy tank & give it a paint aswell,my dad has got 1 on his v8 110 cos a week after buying it it2 sprung a leek,
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Mike
I can Drive.. You can criticize..
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V8MoneyPit
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110 rear tank stone guard
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Reply #2 on:
December 03, 2004, 18:05:36 »
I guess I would have found that out when I remove the old tank :lol:
The tank that arrived today is one made in Canada! It is galvanised, but I'll give it a coat of paint too. Will Hammerite stick OK to the zinc?
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Steve
"Reality is wrong. Dreams are for real."
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muddysteve
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110 rear tank stone guard
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Reply #3 on:
December 03, 2004, 18:42:30 »
chuck some etch primer on it 1st and it'll stick like glue
Steve
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Steve
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110 rear tank stone guard
«
Reply #4 on:
December 03, 2004, 18:55:22 »
I,m just about to do the same job with my 110 V8, so I'll make sure the new tank's galvanised. Thanks.
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Paul
Lilly 110 CSW 3.5L V8
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110 rear tank stone guard
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Reply #5 on:
December 03, 2004, 19:22:14 »
that'll be the same make o tank my dad got for his 110 cos it was fron canada aswell,used black hamerite but when steam cleaned started to lift off,would be better either usin etch primer or black stone chip/shutz,the tank on the 90 will never rust cos its made fron 1/4 plate,its so thick i cnt dent it aswell,just a really tight fit inbetween the rear x member & the xmember infront,so tight it doesnt need bolts to hold it in :lol:
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Mike
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muddyweb
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110 rear tank stone guard
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Reply #6 on:
December 03, 2004, 19:26:29 »
Forgive me if this is a daft question... but if it's Galvanised, why do you want to paint it ?
If the galv is any good, then it will offer much better protection than a layer of paint, and it won't look as tatty when the paint starts to flake off or get scratched.
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Tim Burt
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V8MoneyPit
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110 rear tank stone guard
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Reply #7 on:
December 04, 2004, 09:40:18 »
I suspect it is actually that zintec coating. Not sure it is quite the same thing, is it? Anyway, the leak is rapidly getting worse, so I may not have the time to paint it first.
However, I've got to help winch a vertical mill from a workshop tomorrow, so it will have to last till Monday (fingers crossed). I knew there was a more sensible use for the winch than pulling myself out of mud :lol:
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Steve
"Reality is wrong. Dreams are for real."
Land Rover build:
www.daisythediesel.com
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V8MoneyPit
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110 rear tank stone guard
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Reply #8 on:
December 06, 2004, 17:08:48 »
Oh dear! Dropped the tank out yesterday..... after removing the tow bar, the anti-roll bar (might leave this off), the rear step, etc! Amazingly, everything came apart really easily. No shearing bolts, or rounded heads, astonishing :shock:
BUT.......
The cross member in front of the tank looks more like a piece from a ship wreck :roll: So, picked up my panel supplier's catalogue.... not available. Called my local independant LR specialist.... not available. Rang my LR parts contact..... not available. Then had a brainwave (rare for me!). Rang Designa Chassis'. They make their own version of the cross member complete with all the brackets, body supports, etc. A tad pricey, but a lot easier than fabricating one myself. They reckon it might even be with me tomorrow. Magic :D
The stoneguard appears to be stuck to the old tank with mastic and is proving to be a real pain to remove. Anyone got any miracle methods for getting it off? Incidentally, the leak appears to be from between the tank and the guard.
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Rgds
Steve
"Reality is wrong. Dreams are for real."
Land Rover build:
www.daisythediesel.com
Photos (my other passion and weakness):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/v8moneypit/
V8MoneyPit
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110 rear tank stone guard
«
Reply #9 on:
December 11, 2004, 09:47:50 »
OK, angle grinders on the move! I hate working under cars with one these lethal things :shock: Anyway, the X members out, but the floor support above it is shot too :( Always the way. Ho hum.... onwards and downwards........ !
The Designa cross member is a beast of a thing! Even I should be able to make a neat weld with steel that thick :lol:
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Rgds
Steve
"Reality is wrong. Dreams are for real."
Land Rover build:
www.daisythediesel.com
Photos (my other passion and weakness):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/v8moneypit/
muddyweb
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110 rear tank stone guard
«
Reply #10 on:
December 11, 2004, 10:19:54 »
Just make sure you stop... if you keep going every time you find a faulty bit, you might end up replacing the whole thing ! :lol:
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Tim Burt
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V8MoneyPit
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110 rear tank stone guard
«
Reply #11 on:
December 13, 2004, 18:12:46 »
:lol: :lol:
Oh yes, the old rust chasing situation! Strangely, the chassis rails at each end of the cross member are near perfect. Smacking them with a hammer has failed to do any damage. The body support rail above the cross member is also rotten, but an easy repair. Hope to be complete after a few evenings work.
Then it's just the TRE, suspension bushes, indicator stalk, etc, etc........ :lol:
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Rgds
Steve
"Reality is wrong. Dreams are for real."
Land Rover build:
www.daisythediesel.com
Photos (my other passion and weakness):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/v8moneypit/
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