rustproofing

[land-def-90]

had a look under the 90 today and decided it needed rustproofing, choices are waxoyl which i cant really afford at this moment or spraying the underside with used engine oil at a fraction of the price would welcome any comments on subject

[spinkster]

whilst waste oil will give you some protection (and its best mixed with some deisel and shoved up the inside too to help it creep more) it isnt ideal for 2 reasons....
1. it wont last anywhere near as long as waxoyl(or similar)
2. you wont be popular with anyone who's house you park outside, and you may possibly get your collar felt if some "greenie" see's what your doing and reports you as its strictly illegal as waste oil should allways be disposed of in a controlled environment (and bunging it all over your chassis is technically disposing of it)

[extreme90]

waxoil is rubbish and so is underseal......soon as mud hits it it sticks and wont come off so it makes it look like your chassis is rusted

spend a bit of time onit and make a proper job

wire brush the chassis all down, spray it with a etch primer and then spray with a gloss enamel black paint and itll look better than new and the mud will flake off with a hose pipe

its what i do to mine and is well worth the effort

all for about 40 quid

dan

[TechnoTurkey]

waxoil is rubbish and so is underseal......soon as mud hits it it sticks and wont come off so it makes it look like your chassis is rusted

It may look like your chassis is rusted but it isn't actually which is the main thing surely??

[Litch]

"waxoil is rubbish and so is underseal......soon as mud hits it it sticks and wont come off so it makes it look like your chassis is rusted"

Personal opinion I suppose but I have been using Waxoil & Finigans underseal on my LR's for over 20-years (likewise my father used it on his S11 for 15-years) and we both swear by it as it is very effective at keeping rust at bay.
I did my current 90 about 7-years ago and apart from some slight touching up now and again the coating is in excelent condition and if you scrape the coating off and look underneath you can see the metal is in perfect condition.
The bittumin type underseals are not very good as when they have dried out water can get in behind and rot the chassis (like on the old MOD S111's) but Finigans underseal remains flexible even after many years.


The trouble with hard coatings is that they are prone to chipping.

[grunty]

I have welded a few cars that have been treated with waxoil! so Im not a fan of the stuff, I think the only way to use it properly is to warm up the can and the chassis so it goes on and seeps into all the nooks and crannies.
If you look under any car and see where the engine has leaked oil chances are you'll see a solid chassis, don't know about the legal side but its messy and needs doing every year. Thined with a bit of diesel it will get into any seam and push out the water and keep it out, for a bit  :)

Al

[Litch]

'I think the only way to use it properly is to warm up the can and the chassis so it goes on and seeps into all the nooks and crannies.'

Well that's the trick isn't it, like any treatment it needs to be applied correctly (internal & external surfaces) otherwise you are wasting your time. Yes it is flamable and needs to be completely removed before any welding takes place but that is the same with any solvant based rust-proofing. The aim is that if correctly applied to sound metalwork, welding won't be required for many years to come.

The trouble with relying on used engine oil is that with a leaky engine the oil is constantly being leaked and spread about but if brushed on it will be washed off very quickly and not provide the same sort of protection. Personally I would prefer to fix the leak and use a proper rust proofing agent as it is the correct product for the job.

[grunty]

thats the problem though isn't it, how many people can warm up their chassis?
There is a company advertising in the mags who do it all for you, for a price, and gaurentee it for 15 years or so, not cheap from what i rember but sounds good.
Alan

[Holyzeus]

dont use waste oil use new mix it with oil based black paint till it mixes well and goes on nice. paint will make it look nice and adhere better

[Holyzeus]

nothing wrong with waxoil but it has to be very clean underneath or it wont adhere well

[tonycougar]

I was told that used engine oil would be bad for your chassis because it has some bad chemicals in it. I was also told that if I wanted to use engine oil as an underseal/rustproofing then buy some new cheap engine oil and use that. I suppose that way you wouldn't be disposing of it either and therefore not breaking the law. But the cost of the engine oil may be about the same as waxoil.
I think the waxoil looks better if its done properly.

[Holyzeus]

i got 5 litres from B&Q for just over £6, much cheaper than Waxoil i would think

[TechnoTurkey]

When I spray the waxoyl onto mine (just with the supplied hand spray, not compressor), I just leave the can in a bucket of hot (from the kettle) water and this heat thins it down a treat.

[tonycougar]

i got 5 litres from B&Q for just over £6, much cheaper than Waxoil i would think

fairy snuff. point taken

[ChrisW]

Some interesting reading on used engine oil -
http://www.hse.gov.uk/lau/lacs/57-2.htm
http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/forum/viewthread.php?tid=1677

Bit like saying working with asbestos is ok as long as you hold your breath or breathe out all the time  :roll:

[land-def-90]

Some interesting reading on used engine oil -
http://www.hse.gov.uk/lau/lacs/57-2.htm
http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/forum/viewthread.php?tid=1677

Bit like saying working with asbestos is ok as long as you hold your breath or breathe out all the time  :roll:

  with the greatest of respect, i think that may be a bit over the top, i dont think i will run a greater risk of getting cancer if i spray my chassis with used oil... i think of it more as recycling   waste oil becomes a rust proofer prolonging the life of my motor, good for the planet

[extreme90]

sorry, am i missing something  :? did i actualy say it didnt work ?
it does its job perfect, but i dont like how mud sticks to it and dulls the black so it looks like your chassis is rusted ( it isnt but from a distance it looks it)

id rather spray paint mine, nice smooth finish so no spending hours cleaning the chassis, quick hose down with the garden hose and the chassis is perfectly clean and black

sorry personal preference here, id rather see my chassis a shiney black colour not a dull brown colour

dan

[Rob110]

I wonder if those cheap garden fence sprayers ive seen in b&q will be up to the job of spraying waxoyl?

[L90OOK]

I had my 90 Td5 done at the well known place in Basingstoke.
Great service, free loan car, 5 year, no quibble, guarantee & I didn't get a bit of Waxoyl on me :lol:
Ok it cost @£400 at the time but if I get it done again after 5 years & get the same guarantee thats the same price as a new chassis.
I do have the knowledge that the internals of chassis & bulkhead were properly cleaned & thoroughly cleaned before waxoyl is applied...He uses about 30 Litres per Landrover :shock:
Having had it done once I will have my next newish Landrover done there.

[Litch]

"thats the problem though isn't it, how many people can warm up their chassis?"

Errr, it's the Waxoil that needs to be warmed and not the chassis but you knew that didn't you?
I always try to Waxoil on a nice sunny day, works very well then but if you have to do it when cold you can thin it with white-spirit. Already stated, the chassis has to be completely clean & dry before starting work so best to plan it a few days in advance.

[L90OOK]

It's better if the chassis & waxoyl are warmed before application.  This gives the waxoyl a better chance to creep into every nook & cranny where rust starts :? Otherwise the waxoyl solidifies quickly & bits get missed.
 :roll:

[tom38]

my old 90 was waxoiled there too but cos of the age they wont give the same guarantee but its in much better condition than my non waxoiled 200tdi which has had a good friendship with a welder whilst with last owner new chassis in next 12 months 4 that one