water pump nightmare *UPDATE*

[cardiff_gareth]

guess what picture the scene, you've spent ages trying to gain access to last bolt that holds on the water pump, you know the one that is half hidden behind the pulley and the one that bolts into the engine block, tried removing the fan but didn't have spanner big enough (not that I didn't try with the gas pipe plyers :!: )
so you've spend ages trying to remove the fan to remove the fan couling to get better access and then after several hours you think, hmm, I have a smaller socket set that will get on them pulley nuts so you get the pulley off and then ta-da, you can see the nut. Get the 10mm socket out and give it the very last bolt a twist and its really stiff, so you get a extension for more leverage, second turn, SNAP

Gutted, I felt sick, I just crumpled over the grill and sat there flabber gasted, couldn't even talk

Spoke to Wizard who got my spirits back up, he reacons that when I bolt it together it shouldn't leak and when it comes to timing belt change, the garage should be able to see a bit of this bolt then so might be able to get it out then.

Still feel sick, couldn't even bring myself to put it back together.

[POTASH]

i did the same thing, last bolt was that tight i swear it was welded on, it snapped of but managed to get the threaded part out and put a different bolt back in

[Les Henson]

If you use RTV sealant on the new gasket you may get away with it. It's very common for one or more of the three long bolts to snap.


Les.

[cardiff_gareth]

If you use RTV sealant on the new gasket you may get away with it. It's very common for one or more of the three long bolts to snap.


Les.

What is RTV sealent :?:

[Range Rover Blues]

Lots of WD40 and some heat might help loosen it when the time comes.  If it's going into Ali then you have the obvious bimetallic corrosion rpoblem but fortunately Ali expnds almost twice as much as iron/steel, so take the bolts out of a hot engine

[cardiff_gareth]

Lots of WD40 and some heat might help loosen it when the time comes.  If it's going into Ali then you have the obvious bimetallic corrosion rpoblem but fortunately Ali expnds almost twice as much as iron/steel, so take the bolts out of a hot engine

To get to the bolt I'd have to take the timing cover off the engine so it would need to be cold, is there anyway I could heat up the area in question to help try and remove it when the engine is cold :?:

I'm just worried abour warping something expensive

[Range Rover Blues]

Presumably the coolant is gone as you have the pump off, otherwise I'd say hot water.  You might be able to pour a couple of kettles ful over the engine but it will take a bit of warming up.  Avoid naked flames on castings, especially ali.

If the engine will start then run it for a couple of minutes, perhaps with a hose running into the block to prevent over heating.

[hobbit]

Heat it up any way you can, if you have anough to grab the broken stud/bolt apply some twist with mole grips or something similar and give the end of the bolt a tap with a hammer to help shock it free

A little heat on the bolt will transmit down into the casting, but be very careful, dont go turning the stud cherry red

Another option would be to mig a nut onto the bolt/stud the heat from the mig will help as long as you dont try to put half a roll of mig wire onto it

[Range Rover Blues]

Actually that's a good point, if you go to the trouble of welding a nut onto thte stud then the heat of welding will so a long way to losening the thread too.  Once it's hot spray loads of penetrating oil onto the bolt to cool it again then give it a couple of sharp taps and try gently to turn it.

Of course there is that issue that once you start welding stuff to the snapped stud it HAS to come out before you give up and put it back together.

If all else fails you can also drillout the stud and helicoil the hole, some companies will come out and do it for you and if you get SNAP on stud extractors they have a drilling guide to get the pilot hole dead central on the stud.

[cardiff_gareth]

Well, she's off to vale 4x4 tomorrow to get made better again, rather than try and drive it down i'm having it recovered from the house in case I make it worse or something.

I'll give you the cost tomorrow when I know.

They're doing the P gasket at the same time

[Range Rover Blues]

It's a smart man who knows when it's time to stop digging before the hole gets too big

Hope the bill doesn't make you unwell.

[Skibum346]

It's a smart man who knows when it's time to stop digging before the hole gets too big

Halleluja to that.... and pass me the ladder!

[cardiff_gareth]

I just had the call from the garage, £165.00 + VAT.

Disco recovered, stripped down, sheered off bolt removed, new P gasket, rebuilt, system bled etc

I was concerned about the fact that it was overheating now and then and he said that the P gasket was totally U/S and he could see rusty marks where it had been leaking water and that I wouldn;t of seen a leak as by the time the water gets to open air if you like it has evaporated :?:  he also said that when you rev a disco for a while and then the throttle is dropped if there is a leak in the head gasket then becuase of the fumes/gas in the water it forces the water out of the expansion tank opening but mine was ok :?: :?:


Hope this cures my over heating problem......

[cardiff_gareth]

she's fixed up, only thing is, now the injector has started leaking diesel badly and he didn't fix the rocker cover gasket as he didn't think I wanted it done, even though it was in the bag of tricks I gave him. I didn't mind as I thought I'd do it myself but then I got it home and noticed that it wasn't in the Disco :shock:
Gotta call him 2moro and try and get it refunded so I can buy another, its a 30 mile round trip so don't really wanna make a special trip 2 him for it.
Is it safe to drive with the injector leaking :?:

Also had the EGR bypass done as well, WHAT A DIFFERENCE  8)
Smoked like hell 4 a while then it cleared up, presumably it was smoking out the poo from the intercooler now it can breath properly:?:
Much better now.

Lastly, not sure if anything to worry about but I was happily driving along and changed down a gear and it revved like hell and I had no drive, thought poo and stopped and it turned out that transfer box had slipped out into the middle nothing  :roll:

[shaun and co]

if you flush your intercooler out now youll be amazed at the amount of [!Expletive Deleted!] that comes out- you could tarmac a drive with it! my last disco used to slip into n on the transfer box occasionaly- never really annoyed me so it stayed that way for the next 20,000 miles till i blew the truck up!

[wizard]

Hi Gareth

Where is the injector leaking from ? if its the injector pipe connection have you tried to tighten it up( but dont force it) maybe the garage took the pipe off for some reason .

I can here the mud calling !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


wizard :twisted:

[cardiff_gareth]

I can here the mud calling !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


wizard :twisted:

The mud was calling, then it start peeing water like it was going out of fashion, gonna have a look where in a mo when it cools down, how do you do a very very very very very annoyed emotion :?:

[cardiff_gareth]

turns out it was the bottom radiator hose where it meets up with the water pump housing. Changed the jubalie clip and it seems to have stopped leaking.

[wizard]

I Think the folk at VALE 4X4 need a swift kick in the balerics !!!!!!!!!!

utter crap on there part.

wizard