disco truck.

[Mr Alford]

jesus if u like pirate 4x4 so much why do u go onto that forum and stay there you <edited>

[boss]

there is no need to be like that! however annoying it is. plus to the fact i dont want my thread locked!

[mentalmoshio sophs V8i]

boss i agree these threads may be locked . if so i look right and mr alford should look left so to speak on all thread involeing us or started by us

. i hope ur bulid continues rolling on here . has for him bye ....... .

friendly site is the way foward always.

have u bobtail the front of the disco boss i wasnt sure  :-k

[clbarclay]

like this thing......the site i got it from is no more which is extreeeeeeeeeeeemley annoying!

where might one get those wheels and tyres from?

Them be tractor tyre o arr If you try searching for agricultural tyre suppliers you should find plent of places that can do them in a wide range of sizes, but as previously said its a slow way of getting about, most tractor tyres are only suitable for speeds up to 30mph. Judging by the price we recently paid for a new set of tyres for one of the tractors at home they are not a particuarly chep option either
 
The wheels could well be standard tractor wheels as well with different centres bolted/welded into them or custom made items.

[Jake]

swampers dont they slide on wet hill side abit if i recall

TSL Super Swamper Boggers are the dogs danglies in most situations, including side slopes
We've tested them and they rock!!
Avalible in sizes from 35" to 54"  :shock:
If money is no object, dare i say it....I'd have them over Simex  :-$
 ;)

[boss]

no one has a problem with you it is just the fact that you can not own up to your mistakes and you then dig the proverbial hole, and it gets worse and worse and worse! to which i assume you can testify too.

anyways. i am looking at putting something like 37s on there(minimum o 36) doing this the wheels on full lock will hit the wings where the battery and "tool kit" are stored so they will have to go. i may also have problems with the foot wells but that's not such a big problem. main problem at the moment is that the 9" grinder i have is [!Expletive Deleted!] and it has a disk stuck in it.....tried everything and cant get it out......may hijack all the guts from it and bin the rest!
if i get my arse in gear and get some 4" disks by the end of the week the front "problem area" will be gone and i can stop umming and areing.
my problem now is to decide on what to do about axles.... portals are very nice but so damn expensive, the Salisbury Axel are few and far between and i just cant find definitive info about them, i could just buy McNamara units or maxidrive and use that stuff but that is alot too! then there is the dreaded yota axle......want to avoid these at all costs but needs must and all that.
any thoughts or input would be greatly appreciated, no matter who you are........just don't be talking about stuff you know nothing of. want to try and clear the air here!



also steve, tractor tyres and boggers are very similar....if they are good enough for farmers they are good enough for me!

[clbarclay]

then there is the dreaded yota axle......want to avoid these at all costs but needs must and all that.

Any particular reason or just because they are jap?

[boss]

because i know nothing about them and i would preferably like to stay with landrover stuff

[Disco_Stu]

Hi Boss. I realise you've just said you'd like to stick to landrover stuff but having read some of the comments in the recent LRO about the Mog axles from straigh forward being similar in price to fully upgraded LR units (they come standard with heavy duty components and lockers), I wondered if they might not be worth considering.
You seem to have big plans mate. 37's will play merry hell with your drivetrain and if you plan to compete, reliability is a must. I know you lurk a bit on LR 4x4, take another look at some of those threads by the flying spanners lads and their peers like pikey etc, quite alot aspire to nissan/mog/etc axles.

Without wishing to offend, you dont seem to be shy with your dosh so who knows what big F**K OFF axles and rubber will do to your plans, wont need to chop the front if you're an extra foot off the ground :)

Stu.

Then again, the gigglepin landys are running LR axles with ashcroft internals and jumping around like Bo an Luke Duke so its probably the vodka doing the thinking for me again.

[boss]

Stu i do lurk on Lr4x4 from time to time, and have spoken to jez about portals a few times....there are major factors to consider when doing a conversion like that though....for a start; you all know what I'm like, i would get the Lr axles off and start [!Expletive Deleted!] around with 1links or 3 links or something else that will set me back another 4 months! also if i were to put portals on i would be in the open class on challenge events.....not something i want to do at the moment, want to work my way up ;) and as you have said  cost, at the moment i don't have a mortgage to pay, i don't drink and don't smoke my bmx is complete(and has a rather heavy layer of dust on it) don't have any kids, so i don't really have anywhere else for my income to go. i don't just put all my money into it all i save for a while and buy LOTS of stuff in 1 go. it is not time for another big spend yet....have to save some more and if i get this new job it will be alot easeyer(looking good on that by the way :dance:).

[boss]

also, these are just plans that are not necessarily going to happen any time soon...i am just throwing ideas out. i can stay with baby BFGs for a while longer it doesn't hurt i just like to be different! :lol:

[Disco_Stu]

Boss, I apologise. I've just watched the you tube vid of that mog axled disco climbing a log. Zero articulation/travel/suspension in general. It sounded a lot better in stills, if you know what I mean.

Oh the shame. Then I found this : http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=678939

I  think I'll keep my opinions to myself in future

[boss]

articulation isnt evereything, aslong as you have lockers. chris ables trayback rangerover seems to have alot of flex and that has portals. he will be the one at the top in howlin wolf at the moment.
and what the hell. that disco is huge! 50" boggers? what the hell could you use it for other than a show car?!...i would like to go bigger buit thats too big!

[boss]

got more o the winch tray mountings done today :whothedaddy:
absolutely knackering, I'm set up to work near the door of the garage but i put the disco in with its arse pointing out....so I'm welding and grinding then picking up all this glued together metal and carting it around...doesn't sound to bad but when you do it more then 5 times it gets a little taxing.
made the mounting points that will BOLT on to my chassis, well the basic inside "c" section bit is almost finished with some 150 amp action!....my welder had to cool down alot! i really need to invest in an MMA unit! anyway, welded all the bits together going on dimensions from the rear of the chassis thinking its the same on the front....which it is, apart from 2 plates which are welded to the front of the rails.....school boy error! had to the grind 1mm (1/2 on each part) off and hope.....it sort of fits but needed a bit of persuading with the dead blow hammer! i grind more tomorrow.
posted some pics for you all this time.
by the way...i am deaf! bloody grinders and some thieving git has nicked my ear plugs! [person of questionable parentage]!

make 2 of them gluing various bits together


grind off where needed


tack on spacer plates


route run


propper run


weld edges using your best hottest setting and grind everything that could cause problems off


should have something like this


grind some more until you get the tolerances right

and this happens






in comparison i haven't got much done(in 4 hours)....this annoys me! and I'm having to cannibalize bits off of other things i have made to get that 6mm plate.
am in need of a bit more but i have alot of time left to accumulate more. and don't worry, i know the welds look hideous but it will all be grinded down.
all in all i am thinking it will be very effective. if anyone is looking at making there own bumper i advise using the D44 slots, unless you have the facilities tom make a similar thing your self. but even then this is still a good starting point!
let me know what you think.

[clbarclay]

Ah the joys of making winch mounts :|

Probably a bit lat since you've started making it, but I have some drawings for making 6 bolt sides plates which use the 4 bolts at the front of the disco/range rover chassis as well as the 2 bolts behind/under the front cross member.

Its an interesting design your using, are the plates above and bellow the chassis rails for mounting it with verticle bolts?

Keep up the good work and get your self some ear plugs or defenders. That constat ringing in the ears is not very pleasent :roll:

[boss]

That constat ringing in the ears is not very pleasent :roll:

i know! :D

there will be no horizontal bolts, the plates above and below are to try and reduce the stress on the bolts and distribute some load on the chassis. i thought if i were to winch up something it will put almost a twisting force on the tray and the bolts don't need to take a pulling load and a twisting load...if that makes sense. i may put some vertical bolts in just to be sure. i was also going to extend it all and bolt to the other holes behind the cross member but i got no more steel :(, the Devon bumper i had on there did it, thought it were quite a good idea.

 if all goes well with this one i will be doing the same to the back

[clbarclay]

If just the front 4 bolts were used then yes it could impart quite a bit of twisting load onto the front section of the chassis, but using the 6 bolt method the rear pair of bolts can be considered as a fulcrum. The result is when you winch up/down relative to the vehicle the load on the front bolts is just just up/down rather than twisting.

One comment about bolted joint design is n a good structural joint the shear loads on the joint (so in your case winching forwards) should be transmitted through the clamping force of the bolts creating friction between the winch mount and the chassis. The bolts themselfs not needing to physically touching the chassis.

Make sure the winch mount bolts tight on the chassis so that the joints don't slip, otherwise the bolts will take a beating and won't last too long.

You will also need a to weld crush tubes into any additional holes you make in the chassis to stop it bending in when you tighten the bolts, an M12 bolt torqued up to 100Nm has a clamping force of around 50KN IIRC (thats the equiverlant of 5 tons). Idealy the surfaces of the bolted joint should also be nice and flat, which the top and bottom surfaces of a disco chassis are not. Note the extra plates welded on either side of the 4 bolt holes for the front bumper, I would sugest coppying this on the top and bottom of the chassis If you are going to use verticle bolts.

[bravo669]

if in doubt crack out the angle grinder! thats always stood me in good staed! most of the time, sometimes....... :-k
looking good though! :thumbup:

[clover]

That bobtail pickup with the big tires (dumper or tractor?) is an interesting one. I think a lot of off road courses won't allow those type of tires.

I can't see any rear shocks on it - is it my eyesight? Also his dislocating springs are an interesting setup. I guess he has just not bothered to bolt the bottom spring platform to the axle and has somehow managed to attach the spring to the top. Seems an odd way of doing it. Mine is the opposite.

[clbarclay]

Nothing too odd about that way of dislocating the rear springs. If you can do some basic fabrication then its a very easy way to DIY.

This is what I have on the back of mine, just a few lengths of bar welded to the bottem spring seat to make a cone and 2 lengths of flat with a couple of holes in and some nuts and bolts to clamp the top of the spring to the chassis. So far I've had no issues with this setup and unlike some top dislocation setups that twang every time the relocate I usually forget these are even fitted, they just quietly get on with the job.

[biggerlandy]

thats how i done mine did it about a year ago works great

[Xtremeteam]

that disco on the dumper tyrres could well be the Jones disco which runs on 101 axles & now has 38"boggers,

they won the 90 degree at manby last year

[mentalmoshio sophs V8i]

boss have u considered tubular wings built onto the rear cage

[Jake]

boss have u considered tubular wings built onto the rear cage

Thats quite a Range Rover

Bull nosed and bobtailed  :twisted:
Tubular front wings are becoming more and more popular with the Challenge scene due to every one getting peed off smashing there wings up and constantly replacing them  :roll:
 :D

[mentalmoshio sophs V8i]

dont think ive seen a disco done yet  :-k

[discorich]

http://www.youtube.com/v/BrRmVeBEsXE
found this the other day, and the disco has the tubular wings on it.

[crazymac]

Thats a nice machine there :clap: nice to see hime driving as much as he can! I've seen some events where they rely on the winches too much!

[clover]

Nothing too odd about that way of dislocating the rear springs. If you can do some basic fabrication then its a very easy way to DIY.

This is what I have on the back of mine, just a few lengths of bar welded to the bottem spring seat to make a cone and 2 lengths of flat with a couple of holes in and some nuts and bolts to clamp the top of the spring to the chassis. So far I've had no issues with this setup and unlike some top dislocation setups that twang every time the relocate I usually forget these are even fitted, they just quietly get on with the job.

Yes now I think about it I can see the advantages of doing it that way. My cones are quite short and have a little hook thing to catch the spring. Is yours able to bottom out on the bump stops on the way up or have you not tried out the suspension yet (looks like you are still building or is it an old photo?).

[bravo669]

tubular definitely has its advantages. lightweight and strong, ideal for challenge trucks or similar. i think its a great idea!

[clbarclay]

Yes now I think about it I can see the advantages of doing it that way. My cones are quite short and have a little hook thing to catch the spring. Is yours able to bottom out on the bump stops on the way up or have you not tried out the suspension yet (looks like you are still building or is it an old photo?).

Tested? just a few times.



That doesn't mean its finnished :roll: Assuming the tyres and the wheel arches don't try to eat each other then the suspension can travel to the bumpstops whithout the cones catching.

The previous picture was taken mid way though a chassis swap earlier this year, since then the springs have changed and the bumpstops extened (in vaine) to try and stop bigger tyres and the inner arches destroying each other.

One other advantage of dislocation cones like on mine is I can just remove the bolts to the axle, slide in a spring retaining plate and bolt it back together to stop it dislocating for when I eventually get round to trying my hand at RTV trialing.