CSW side frame repairs, parts?

[Niel]

Hi, well I've discovered the side frames need sorting, angled bit at the back/bottom member is more holey than rightious, does anyone make sections or is it be creative time?

Oh and passenger footwell too!

[spy]

Have you tried this bloke?

www.yrm-metal-solutions.com

I just bought some door frame repair stuff from him.  I havent done it yet though!

[L90OOK]

Do you mean the body cappings, bit below rear sliding windows & tub?  ...or the bits where the rear lights are?
Either way both are available galvanized from stockists.  I did have to wait six months for one side of the cappings...but worth it.
You may be able to get good secondhans ones from breakers & get them galvanized.

[Niel]

Do you mean the body cappings, bit below rear sliding windows & tub?  ...or the bits where the rear lights are?

Neither, the side frame is the bit the rear side doors hang on (B + C posts) and forms the inner sill. Its the bit at the back of the sill going up at 45 degree's from it thats rusted, been patched on the top side though rust through again and rusted out completely on the inner face and under side, the outer face under the alloy triangle is non-existant too....

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1241/1466874011_8a88dfc702_b.jpg

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1408/1466874619_ede39f52b5_b.jpg

[L90OOK]

Ah that one, sorry I miss understood! ...classic MOT failure point as within 30cm of the rear seat belt mounting!

THESE are what you want.

Paddocks sell them singularly too.  8)

[Niel]

Ah that one, sorry I miss understood! ...classic MOT failure point as within 30cm of the rear seat belt mounting!

THESE are what you want.

Paddocks sell them singularly too.  8)

Not at that price I don't!

The rest whilst scabby isn't bad enough to need replacing, just the one section....

[L90OOK]

I think you are gonna have to fabricate a piece then.  If you remove the riveted on triangular body panel they are very accessible.

[ChrisV8]

:lol: Just doing this job on my 110, have completed one side just going to start on the other side.

What I have done is to remove the triangular ally cover section riveted to the underlying structure, held also to the wheel arch with two plastic rivet thingys and a couple of little bolts into the cill member. Then all the rot is revealed !!!!! Mine went quite a long way up, so I fabricated a replacement box section in two angled bits so I could weld it to the good part of the old box and down to the cill, then welded the two angles together. It's just fiddly and time consuming but the end result has been good and regained the strength missing. The last job was copiuos amounts of waxoyl to make sure it doesn't need doing again for a long while, I also will inject Waxoyl into the box section using a hole left in the bottom part internally.

I will take some pics of the next side so you can see what I have done if that's any help. I am sure others have done this before as it is an obvious rust trap.

[Niel]

:lol: Just doing this job on my 110, have completed one side just going to start on the other side.

What I have done is to remove the triangular ally cover section riveted to the underlying structure, held also to the wheel arch with two plastic rivet thingys and a couple of little bolts into the cill member. Then all the rot is revealed !!!!! Mine went quite a long way up, so I fabricated a replacement box section in two angled bits so I could weld it to the good part of the old box and down to the cill, then welded the two angles together. It's just fiddly and time consuming but the end result has been good and regained the strength missing. The last job was copiuos amounts of waxoyl to make sure it doesn't need doing again for a long while, I also will inject Waxoyl into the box section using a hole left in the bottom part internally.

I will take some pics of the next side so you can see what I have done if that's any help. I am sure others have done this before as it is an obvious rust trap.

That would be useful, I've done a temp. repair on one side, but don't have a MIG at the moment to weld anything this thin, so its only bolted together:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1077/1467729050_629b5ac993_b.jpg

[ChrisV8]

Removed the ally cover panel and ooooooh

Cut three bits of steel, two bent into an angle and the other was a dog leg I already had from a previous repair job.

Welded the first angle section in, then the dog leg and the last angle formed the top and the upstand for the door seal.[/img]

Don't appear to have any pics here but they are here

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=18226

[Niel]

Removed the ally cover panel and ooooooh

Cut three bits of steel, two bent into an angle and the other was a dog leg I already had from a previous repair job.

Welded the first angle section in, then the dog leg and the last angle formed the top and the upstand for the door seal.[/img]

Don't appear to have any pics here but they are here

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=18226

Hummm, not sure I'll bother with thin stuff to form a box, Unistrut is 2+mm wall section and galvanised (even got Stainless at work), might as well weld that straight in when I borrow the MIG. Don't think I'll bother with extending the flange for the triangle either, though some sort of shield to stop the spray might be useful?

Now a ready made repair section could be very useful, but with so many different rot patterns It'd have to be quite big to cover the worst.

[ChrisV8]

I have used 2mm steel as I had a load left over from daughters RR rebuild. The bent sections were pressed at work as we have a humungous 70 tonne press which was a bit over the top, it can bend 13mm like toffee !

The original steel is very thin normal body work thickness so well worth using thicker as the exposed bit in the wheel arch is getting all the road muck thrown at it.

[Niel]

I have used 2mm steel as I had a load left over from daughters RR rebuild. The bent sections were pressed at work as we have a humungous 70 tonne press which was a bit over the top, it can bend 13mm like toffee !

The original steel is very thin normal body work thickness so well worth using thicker as the exposed bit in the wheel arch is getting all the road muck thrown at it.

Sure is, did the otherside last weekend too, MIG on loan to finish!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nieljohn/