Topic: boot floor gone bye bye (Read 5746 times)

Evilgoat · « **Reply #1 on:** October 11, 2007, 14:53:32 »

I found it easier to remove the wheelarch carpet completley. But it looks as bad as mine is under the GRP & Wood :(

cardiff_gareth · « **Reply #2 on:** October 11, 2007, 15:15:21 »

take carpets from wheel aches out and also 6th and 7th seats as by the looks of things, your gonna need to replace them 2 side panels that go either side of the floor panel as well

When its all out, get some dust sheets (woolworths do a twin pack for Â£2 I think) and then get the pressure washer out. CLean all the smeg off and you'll be able to look better at what is left. This is what we did to mine. Makes it a better job as you can now clean and hammerite all the chassis and suspension parts you wouldn't normally be able to reach and you can WD the A frame ball joint. It'll last a lot longer then

Don't forget as well to prime and then give the new floor pan several coats of metal finisher like hammerite so if it leaks again then it'll last a little longer before it starts rusting away :lol: Looking back now I should of changed my A frame ball joint when my floor was out as its well easy to get to :lol:

DREWSTER100 · « **Reply #3 on:** October 11, 2007, 17:48:57 »

nows the time to replace the a frame ball joint as it will save you time

cardiff_gareth · « **Reply #4 on:** October 11, 2007, 18:05:15 »

bet you'll have fun with them seat belt anchorages - i know i did, if you gotta replace them then get ready for the price of em :shock:

Evilgoat · « **Reply #5 on:** October 11, 2007, 18:07:53 »

Quote from: "cardiff_gareth"

bet you'll have fun with them seat belt anchorages - i know i did, if you gotta replace them then get ready for the price of em :shock:

Mine are intact, although a certain amount of brute force was required to release one of the bolts (compressor wound up to full power and th big windy gun)

datalas · « **Reply #6 on:** October 11, 2007, 18:15:51 »

Incidently, I know a lot of people suggest making a new floor yourself, I would suggest that Â£50 for a new "correct shaped" one isn't that bad and does save a fair amount of time and effort.

granted, it might not be the strongest bit of metal ever, but the last one was fitted by brummies and not painted, and that still lasted say 15 years, so I wouldn't worry too much about survivability :D

J B · « **Reply #7 on:** October 11, 2007, 18:29:49 »

fuel tank out, and all the edges cleaned off and most of the rotten lip removed, goto weld a big patch onto the rear of the bosy cross member, hence tank removal, and test fitted the new floor

not bad for leisurly afternoons work :lol:

J B · « **Reply #8 on:** October 11, 2007, 18:31:32 »

hole

russ3120 · « **Reply #9 on:** October 11, 2007, 18:59:42 »

redoing my floor to, looks like you will need to plate the sides to.
Yours rear body cross member is a million times better than mine.
It aint a fun job :lol: :lol: :lol:

cardiff_gareth · « **Reply #10 on:** October 11, 2007, 19:16:39 »

Quote from: "Evilgoat"

Quote from: "cardiff_gareth"
bet you'll have fun with them seat belt anchorages - i know i did, if you gotta replace them then get ready for the price of em :shock:

Mine are intact, although a certain amount of brute force was required to release one of the bolts (compressor wound up to full power and th big windy gun)

your lucky 8) , mine didn't want to know at all, they were a right pig. in the end they were grinded off. I did manage to save the upper folder part but the rest all had to be replaced, cost the best part of Â£70 if my memory is correct for the tie bolts and all the other bits and peices

Jon, are you gonna replace the side panels as by the looks of things they look bad and it'll only make for another job later on down the line, is it best to do the 'hole' (get it :lol: ) lot in one go :?:

here is my before and not so after as I forgot to do one :lol: :lol:
on the before shot you can see where the previous owner tacked on a small plate so that if you pressed the floor to feel for a crunch, then you wouldn't

If you have a keen eye you'll see on the after shot that i painted the cross member before I welded up the holes in it :oops: :oops:

I did the whole boot in silver hammerite as to protect it for years to come, it was a shame to put the carpet etc back down :lol: :lol:

J B · « **Reply #11 on:** October 13, 2007, 12:52:44 »

been painting the chassis and cleaning the tank today

J B · « **Reply #12 on:** October 13, 2007, 12:53:10 »

chassis

cardiff_gareth · « **Reply #13 on:** October 13, 2007, 13:02:06 »

Looking better already Jon

redhand · « **Reply #14 on:** October 13, 2007, 17:05:07 »

Just out of interest is the floor pan supposed to slope downwards under the seats. or should it be straight all the way through?. As mine drops about 1" from the seatbelt mounts to the seat hinge mounting positions.

Or is the body bent and if so whats the best way to get it back into shape.

J B · « **Reply #15 on:** October 13, 2007, 18:01:49 »

it should be straight, id say you had some probelms there matey

redhand · « **Reply #16 on:** October 13, 2007, 18:28:55 »

Quote from: "jon boy"

it should be straight, id say you had some probelms there matey

Both sills rear crossmember and floor all rotten.

J B · « **Reply #17 on:** October 13, 2007, 18:40:03 »

oh, another one to strip out then, its catching

Evilgoat · « **Reply #18 on:** October 14, 2007, 12:45:05 »

Was speaking to Tim from Devon yesterday, seems that theyve done 2 or three this wekk or so too.

gee the sparky · « **Reply #19 on:** October 14, 2007, 19:44:48 »

wheres the cheapest place to get a new floor section? as mine looks worse than those already shown.

cardiff_gareth · « **Reply #20 on:** October 14, 2007, 20:15:37 »

Quote from: "gee the sparky"

wheres the cheapest place to get a new floor section? as mine looks worse than those already shown.

paddocks - free delivery over Â£50 orders

discoverytdi · « **Reply #21 on:** October 14, 2007, 20:20:41 »

ok ready to be shot down in flames but considering the problems with Disco floors, is there any reason why you couldn't replace it with thick ali plate. mines perfect by the way phew :D 1996 300 Tbi 88000 mls

Evilgoat · « **Reply #22 on:** October 14, 2007, 22:05:15 »

I have a thick ally chequer plate and under that GRP clad MBP.

It does work rather well however the rails are noe rotted through as are the sides. I'd rather have an original part in the personally. You have to remeber the ribbing in the OEM part of for strength.

Thinking about refitting mine semi permanently as bing able to remove the floor has made some of the jobs I've had to do a LOT easier. I have seem some seriously strong bayonet type fasters I want to use, normally found on aircraft panels. Just sourcing some is a pain.

like these :

J B · « **Reply #23 on:** October 20, 2007, 19:11:38 »

spent the afternoonwelding up the rear body cross-member

stuntman · « **Reply #24 on:** October 24, 2007, 13:00:09 »

Well I've found out last night that sadly I don't have a boot floor anymore, looks like I need to replace the whole lot aswell,

So it should be fun as it will be my first piece of welding on a car, I have a mig welder with gas, however I have no gas, can someone tell me what would I would need to ask for?

Regards Andi K

cardiff_gareth · « **Reply #25 on:** October 24, 2007, 13:52:59 »

Quote from: "stuntman"

Well I've found out last night that sadly I don't have a boot floor anymore, looks like I need to replace the whole lot aswell,

So it should be fun as it will be my first piece of welding on a car, I have a mig welder with gas, however I have no gas, can someone tell me what would I would need to ask for?

Regards Andi K

It'll look worse than what it is so fear not !

The gas you need can be picked up anywhere, Machine Mart sell a small canister for Â£7ish
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/range/guid/5A27F078-C8A9-4226-8628-77A9344CEFE1

With the floor, you'll need the replacement panel, there are different places selling these, I got mine from Paddocks, then bought a Â£5ish A frame ball joint to take it over Â£50 so the P&P was free

You'll also need spot weld drill bits:
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/search/filter/weld+drill/page/1

These cutting parts on the drills are reversable so 1 drill with have 2 blades but they wear down quickly so get 2 or 3.

We used them for the cross members and then an angle grinder for the edges. If you do it this way then keep a safe distance with the cutting away from the edge of the side panels, remember to stop for the cross members and also make sure you don't do a LROi special and grind through the brake pipe that is located at the top of the panel - by the rear seats !!
When the floor is out this way you are left with old floot still attahced the the surrounding lips so get a cold chizel and start beating it away :lol:

stuntman · « **Reply #26 on:** October 24, 2007, 14:24:11 »

Excellent, thanks gareth.

I'll have a look at machine mart on my way home from work tonight.

Great advice!

Regards Andi K

cardiff_gareth · « **Reply #27 on:** October 24, 2007, 14:43:47 »

Quote from: "stuntman"

Excellent, thanks gareth.

I'll have a look at machine mart on my way home from work tonight.

Great advice!

Regards Andi K

forgot to mention, if you do use a grinder and boy is it quicker, then either take the tank out or be careful you don't put the grinder to far down into the floor, I think from recolection we did the part by the tank filler hose with a dremmel so to be extra careful

stuntman · « **Reply #28 on:** October 24, 2007, 14:57:45 »

I'll probably drop the tank, it will be a weekend job

L90OOK · « **Reply #29 on:** October 24, 2007, 15:49:20 »

Quote from: "Evilgoat"

I have seem some seriously strong bayonet type fasters I want to use, normally found on aircraft panels. Just sourcing some is a pain.

like these :

AKA Zeus fasteners...try THESE

News:

AuthorTopic: boot floor gone bye bye (Read 5746 times)