Transfer box difference between a dico and a classic

[ron3.9v8]

advise needed urgently.Difference between a 94 M reg Dico 300 series v8 and a RRC 94 L reg v8, both 3.9 and both Auto.
My mate and i have both taken the front propshafts off of our motors to do the uj's.
When doing mine i put the transfer box in neutral and lifted the drivers side front wheel and the wheel would spin, my mate done the same to his Classic and the wheel would not spin ?.
After both front prop's were off he can still drive his as rear wheel drive but i have got no drive on mine at all ?.
All we can hear on mine is a spinning noise from underneath when put in to drive on the gearbox.
My transfer box was left in neutral the whole time when removing the prop and after letting off the jack when the prop was off.
any ideas ?

many thanks
regards

Ron

[skip]

I'm assuming your mates motor is the RRC, if so his has probably got a viscous coupling instead of a manual difflock.

Had you engaged your difflock with the front prop off you would have had drive to the back axle. The spinning noise you heard was probably the front prop drive flange whizzing round.

If everything is as i've explained you have nothing to worry about but your mate might have seized/partially seized coupling.

[ron3.9v8]

hi

I did engauge the difflock with the front prop off but still no drive the back axle ?.

[ChrisV8]

Sounds like yours hasn't locked the diff as drive should go to the back and front, the front won't drive as it all goes to the spinning wheel. The geary nose is the difflock clutch not quite engaging, the linkage needs  lubrication and adjusting  I think.

The Classic has a BW transfer with viscous coupling so will auotmatically lock after a few seconds. But his may be seized and the check is to jack one front wheel up, transfer in neutral and try and turn the wheel, should be able to rotate it slowly with a degree of difficulty.

[DAVE39V8]

Sounds like yours hasn't locked the diff as drive should go to the back and front, the front won't drive as it all goes to the spinning wheel. The geary nose is the difflock clutch not quite engaging, the linkage needs  lubrication and adjusting  I think.

The Classic has a BW transfer with viscous coupling so will auotmatically lock after a few seconds. But his may be seized and the check is to jack one front wheel up, transfer in neutral and try and turn the wheel, should be able to rotate it slowly with a degree of difficulty.

Hi ChrisV8 I'm the mate in question to ron3.9v8's problem...To do this check does the auto box on my RRC need to be in any particular gear/position :?:  :?:

[Range Rover Blues]

The viscous diff will lock up instantly, not after a few seconds.

Jack up the front end, put a breaker bar onto a wheelnut and try to undo it slowly.  The amount of force required shold make the wheel turn very slowly.

I also find the force required to undo a propshaft nut will do the trick

As for what gear, either/both boxs in neutral with the handbrake on.

Ron, reading exactly what you said, you had the T-Box in Neutral before you tried to drive off, Can I assume you put it back in High or Low when you also selected difflock?  If so then chances are it needs adjusting or cleaning.  If the car was driving fine before you removed the prop then everything else should be ok.