Oil for starting up new engine for first time

[ep90]

I've got a genuine Landrover recon 200tdi that I am going to fire up for the first time, whats my best option regarding oil.  Should I flush it through first, use running in oil or just bung the normal oil in?

[Saffy]

On a side note (you might be aware already) recommended to remove the solenoid wire and crank over for 10 -20 sec without the engine starting. This should allow oil to pump around where it is needed for the first time rather than starting a rebuilt engine who's top end will be running dry before oil reaches there.

[burgerman]

i know from experience that if you put good "slippy" in a new engine it will possibly smoke ect, due to the fact it wont let anything bed in,i always used a running in oil for a couple of hundred miles first, this was more noticable on older style engines, i think new cars are ok due to the engine management is so precise from the word go, just my penny"s worth

[andyb]

Even when I rebuilt a 2.25 petrol in a short block all I did was use the normal oil but change it after 200 miles (filter as well of course).

Removing the fuel solenoid wire is a good idea.....I cranked the 2.25 without the dizzy to coil HT lead to pump the oil around the head before firing up.

HTH

[ep90]

Running in oil for a few hundred miles looks like a good plan then.  Cheers for the replys

[Terranosaurus]

Cheap a chips mineral oil. I can get 20/50 for under £3 for 5litres, run it for a couple of hundred on that then change.

[Range Rover Blues]

If it's a factory engine then it won't need running in.  Engine's havn't needed running in for decades.

I'm not saying don't treat it with respect but you don't need to faff around either, in fact there is a school of thought that deisels need to be burned in (read thrashed).

A semi-decent 15/40 for the TDi, yes swap it soon after.  I would suggest that in addition to the solenoid that you leave the glow plugs out until the oil has reached the top of the engine to relieve as much pressure as possible form the crank until it's properly oiled.  As always though the part that suffers most when starting a rebuilt engine will be the camshaft.

[Mutz]

If it's a factory engine then it won't need running in.  Engine's havn't needed running in for decades.

I'm not saying don't treat it with respect but you don't need to faff around either, in fact there is a school of thought that deisels need to be burned in (read thrashed).

A semi-decent 15/40 for the TDi, yes swap it soon after.  I would suggest that in addition to the solenoid that you leave the glow plugs out until the oil has reached the top of the engine to relieve as much pressure as possible form the crank until it's properly oiled.  As always though the part that suffers most when starting a rebuilt engine will be the camshaft.

A few years ago my boss asked me to test a new diesel van if it was ok we would get a fleet, he said do what you like with it , but dont scratch it!!!
Picked it up from dealer with 8miles on the clock, thrashed it from there to Letchworth (flatout all the way) and back again, thrashed it everywhere for a fortnight.
Told boss ok for what we want, we ordered 10, went on holiday; when i came back all the other vans had gone to workers, mine was the one i had as a demo!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Over the next year all the vans who had "run them in" had loads of problems, wanting new parts on a regular basis.
The one i thrashed from day 1 never had any at all!!!

[ep90]

I'm not sure how much trashing the rest of the Landy can take, its going in my Series 2A with standard box and axles (for the time being).  

I'm thinking cheap or running in oil for a few hundred miles with a mixture of engine speeds loads.  Then change the filter and oil.

[Range Rover Blues]

Don't go for really cheap oil, that's a false economy.  Buy reasonable oil, mineral as you're swapping it.

Once you've got it started and everything checks out just get in it and drive, you'll have a variety of road and engine speeds, loads etc which is good.