AuthorTopic: diy rollcage  (Read 1050 times)

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Offline bodgeitjo

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diy rollcage
« on: December 09, 2007, 22:38:52 »
hi all any body made there own rollcage. thinkin about doing one myself. not sure were to start tho :lol:  what steel :?:  how to fix to centre door post. that sort of thing. not to bad with the welder. any ideas or pics. thanx.
1989 110csw 200tdi                                                                                                                                      If it aint broke fix it till it is.

Wolfie

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diy rollcage
« Reply #1 on: December 09, 2007, 22:49:04 »
It's been discussed on here many times, a search would be good.

But have a read of the first post of http://forums.mud-club.com/viewtopic.php?t=52984&highlight=rollcage

Offline boss

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« Reply #2 on: December 10, 2007, 15:21:17 »
you must use CDS(cold drawn steel) this way there are no seams to split i am making my own cage but i am ordering a front disco hoop and rear defender truck hoop from protection and performance, i know somone with a hydrolic pipe bender so im going to make up all the bits in between myself. you just have to make sure your a goood welder because too much heat in the tube will temper it too much and/or warp it and too little heat its a rubbish weld and it wont hold. there are also rules and guide lines to follow, im not sure waht book it is(alrc handbook?) but my old chap has it at home, it tells you all the regulations. hope thats helped.

"the young disco chopping maniac" -disco_stu!
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Offline crazymac

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« Reply #3 on: December 10, 2007, 16:30:41 »
Its the M.S.A. Blue book i think
I HAVE THE BODY OF A GOD

shame its Budda!!

Offline extreme90

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« Reply #4 on: December 10, 2007, 19:20:02 »
it doesnt have to be to a standard unless you intend on competing in winch challenges
do trials
hill rallys
comp safari's ect ect

altho, its good practice to make it good and strong and to spec

after all, a poorly designed and mounted cage will inflict more harm, then do good
do it once, do it right
dan
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Offline clbarclay

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« Reply #5 on: December 10, 2007, 19:29:59 »
A problem with roll cages is they do give you the confidance to take greater risks, so make sure you have a roll cage your confidance won't be miss founded in.
Chris

Various range rovers from 1986 to 1988 in various states
Locost sports car based on mk2 escort - currently working on brakes, fuel and wiring

Offline Thrasher

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« Reply #6 on: December 10, 2007, 19:41:34 »
..what's more - the odds on a roll *with* a roll cage are greater due to more weight above the suspension.....
--
Neil

Offline extreme90

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« Reply #7 on: December 10, 2007, 19:53:35 »
its easier to roll with a cage than without  :roll:
but then again, the...it'll be ok factor comes into play when you have a cage
so generally ( well i do ) just go for it, worst eventuality is i get to give me chassis a good looking at  :lol:  :lol:
oh and grease the props easily aswel

but thats my personality for you speaking  :lol:

dan
Dan Thomas,                  Matt Price
Team Relentless " No half measures "
Bobtailed Auto Td5 90 comp truck........... Got more tricks than a magician !!

http://www.Devon 4x4.co.uk >> for all your truck needs and more !!
http://www.Gigglepin4x4.net >> For when the going gets tuff, and one motor just isnt good enough !!!
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Offline bodgeitjo

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« Reply #8 on: December 10, 2007, 21:55:56 »
thanx for ur replys so far, just for the record no intentions of doing winch challenges ect. more a case of body protection when playing and laneing, :lol: and all so cosmetic 8) (well i think a cage looks good)but i do also want it to be purposfull and safe as do have 5 kids and missus in there.(started playing off road for some peace and quiet but cant go without them now :roll: )
1989 110csw 200tdi                                                                                                                                      If it aint broke fix it till it is.

Offline boss

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« Reply #9 on: December 10, 2007, 22:47:28 »
another thing people forget about when rolling is a possibilty is to take any thing lose out or strapp it down, friend of mine rolled and got a nasty cut on his head from a can of coke!
when building it you want to mount it on the outriggers you cant do that on a disco front hoop but you are alowed to weld a 6 or 7mm thick plate and extend them by 100mm, it must be gusseted in 4 places though. and the further back your middle/rear hoop braces are the better. if memory serves you can do pretty much what you want in the middle of all that.
that book was the alrc hand book p100 onwards

"the young disco chopping maniac" -disco_stu!
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bossFAB - stickers avalable

Offline NIVAD

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« Reply #10 on: December 11, 2007, 19:16:58 »
Ive done a few. BUt dont quote me as i learn as i go most the time.

Material- mine as said was cold drawn pipe (seamless) this is measured by its inside diameter 42mm i think and with a substantial wall thickness to about 48 o/d, i use the clarke hydraulic pipe bender-£100.

The above im considering changing on next build as ive found a supplier of TUBE measured by O/D this is litter gauge but to full spec as thats there buisness. They also supply the brackets to bolt it all together the only thing is the tube is about twice the price of my pipe and id have to get a new bender or mandrels.

Excellent site for fish mouth calculation(joining to pipes) www.metalgeek.com/cgi-system/php5.cgi/static/cope.pcgi
Have a look at my project on www.nnoc.co.uk  in Photos-user-Nivad.

What do you think-
CHEERS Paul....

 






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