wheel judder

[henryandlesley]

hi just had my wheels ballanced and it is still wobbling at speed and when you go over bumps :-k

[Range Rover Blues]

Does it start wobbling all on it's own, or does it start when you hit a bump?

Is it bad when you hit a bump?

Do you get steering kickback?

What size tyres do you have and on what rims?

How old are your shockers, both front and steering?

Is it lifted?

Have you had the tracking checked?

I don't remember the specific order but the checklist includes steering swivle preload, radius arm bushes, tracking.

[Range Rover Blues]

Ok, steering damper will effect how much vibration you feel, but it doesn't cause it.

It'd be worth putting a new one on though, but I think you need to check the Panhard rod bushes, particulary if the steering is being effected (it's known as kick-back.  If it's doing it you'll know why ;)) and the Radius arm bushes.  Be careful though, I steamed in full speed ahead and changed mine, it got worse :shock:

Steering swivel preload will have an effect on steering "shimy" but the biggect efffect on mine (funny how it's at the bottom of the list in the manual then) was steering tracking.  It should be slightly toe-out.  If it's parallel or heaven forbid toe-in then the steering is more lively (almost twitchy) and you get an awful lot more bounce from potholes.

Hand on though, did you say 205/75 R16? I need you to check that as it doesn't sound right, they're too small :? and bizarely that could be another factor.

[Range Rover Blues]

Ah, driver's side, then checkall the steering balljoints, mechanicaly speaking that wheel is furthest from the steering wheel.  Also check you new dampers are still ok, what brand did you buy?

Misfire, if it's not the lug, leads or dizzy cap then you need to do a compression test, you could have burned a valve out.

[Range Rover Blues]

Cool, that lot shouldn't cost the earth and will make a big difference if it's worn out.

Go outside now and spray WD40 on the old joints though, getting thenout of the track rod can be a PITA ;)

[Range Rover Blues]

Are they tin gaskets? because it sounds like you're saying the head warped and you lost the gasket.

Get them skimmed and fit composite gaskets.  It' sbest to do both side to match though, but I pay £20 a head for machining and the gaskets willset you back about £50 posted.

[Range Rover Blues]

Yes, that looks to me like the heads gone a little.  If it's only a little you can try to get away without skimming, but you must then use composite gaskets.

I'd suggest a light skim and composites anyway.  the composites are 1.2mm thick whereas the tin are 0.5mm, so you can take 0.7mm off and do nothing to raise the C:R.

I'd strongly suggest you do both sides the same, leaving one side now is a false economy.

When you rebuild the heads, lap the valves in until there are no more black marks on the seats, work hardened valves and seats are better than new ones in a lead-free engine ;) check that none of the valves are bent or otherwise sticking in the guides.

I like to de-coke the pistons, use lots of WD40 and a scouring pad.  Seal the piston in the bore with CV joint grease, then lift it our carfully with an old feeler guage (hoping the edges are blunt, not full of nicks).  Check the bores for scratches, these could indicate a broken ring.

If the valves are good and you sort out the head gasket, it should run nicely :D

[Range Rover Blues]

Good luck then mate ;)

[Range Rover Blues]

If the bores are fine then do a compression test to check the rings aren't worn.  Yes the camshaft wear/lifters could be a factor, or it could be in the ignition system.

Another, slightly more detailed test is the leakdown test.  You need a compressor then a leakdown tester, I'm after on emyslef and this is the cheapest I've found.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=110210715631&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=001

[Range Rover Blues]

All your compr tests arw ithinh 10% so your engine is mechanically sound, which is encouraging.

If you can hear the missfire at idle then try disconnecting some of the injectors, you need to do at least 2 at once before you notice a drop in revs, but this might tell you which cylinder is missing.  You can sometimes tell by the temp of the exhaust manifold too, the poorly cylinder will have a slightly colder stub on the manifold.

Did you say you'd checked the plugs? did none of them shed any light?

Another thing is the condition of the dizzy cap.  I had one that caused a misfire and when I looked insode it the missing cylinders had a correspondingly clean contact in the dizzy cap, the good ones were slightely burned as normal.

[Range Rover Blues]

the miss fire is on no2 plug is wet spark from lead and plig if put on head

I'm not sure what you mean there, but it sounds like you have found the culprit.  If you are seeing the spark outside the engine then chances are the plug is knackered or the lead is totally shot.  The spark will always find the easiest path to ground.

[Range Rover Blues]

So No2 plug sparks when it's resting on the head  :-. or not :?

It wouldn't be the first time I'd heard of brand new plugs being duff.

[Range Rover Blues]

So it's not the spark then.  What makes you think it's No2 specifically?

If it's not mechanical/lack of pressure, it's not he spark then next is lack of fuel.

Firstly check the injector plug, I've had the metal pins inside the plug slip out loads of times, if damn frustrating as it can cause a missfire that wasn't there before.

You could also have a blocked injector, or a fault somewhere else in the loom. 

Another thing you can check is the resistance of one bank of injectors from the ECU multiplug, you need the Haynes manula for details though.

A final thought (not a nice one) is that chronic cam wear can cause a missfire.

[Range Rover Blues]

Ok, then it sounds like fuel.  I'd suggest you try unplugging the injector, you probably need to do more than one before you'll notice a difference though, so unplug one you know is firing, you might notice a slight change because you already have the missfire, then unplug no.2.  This should confirm what you already think.

Whilst it's unplugged make sure the wiring in the socket plug hasn't moved.

You could try injector cleaner, otherwise try another injector.