door seals

[treeman]

after playing around in the floods an seeing how my door seals dont stop water gushing in :oops: i was wondering if i could fill the door seals with silicone sealent,would i still be able to shut the doors properly? i know its goin to be a hard job stopping water coming in totally but aslong as it doesnt look like niagra falls coming in im not too bothered, has anyone done this? any advice welcome, cheers

[chris9119]

You can fit new door sealing strips and create a better seal. However, I thought that Land Rover door seals are designed to leak to allow water into the vehicle to keep the wheels on the ground (traction) and not just float away..........

[Kaneda]

Discovery 1 door seals are cut at the bottom. This allows water in so the wheels stay on the ground. If you become watertight you'll float off and that'll be the end of that wading trip!

[ChrisW]

You can supplement the existing door seals with some self adhesive closed cell foam around the door bottoms/sides making sure you leave a couple of gaps to allow the water to pass through - I'm assuming your existing seals are in a bit of a state judging by what you say about amount of water.

[treeman]

ahh better not fill the seals then  i didnt think of that  :doh: thanks guys, the seals arnt too bad its just that iv spent a fair time in the water this weekend towing people out, so the disco is drenched, in that case il prob cut the carpet in strategical places so i can take it out before wading and off roading and use the carpet as a template to cut some rubber lining for floor protection, i dont fancy floating away  :lol: thanks again

[NeilWilson]

I fitted some replacement ones in mine (from Rimmer Bros I think) but they do not have any cut outs so I guess I had better add some.  Dead easy to fit and I think it has cut down some road/wind noise.

Neil

[muddyjames]

I find varying speeds through the same water has different effects on the Niagra syndrome. Just go faster!!!

also the splits are there to let the water out when it flows in through the air vents. Yes this does happen!!!  :lol: :roll:

[lee celtic]

doors that seal....... on a Disco........Your avin a larrrrffff :lol: :lol: :lol:

Though if you want to try go to http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/ they do all profiles of new seals off the roll :D you may be able to get the same stuff in a bigger size so if fills better..

[treeman]

also the splits are there to let the water out when it flows in through the air vents. Yes this does happen!!!  :lol: :roll:

ya could of told me 3 days ago :lol: ;) its jus to stop the carpets gettin wet an stinking it out for the next month really, il prob get some new ones soon but for now the carpets are coming out  :twisted: cheers for the advice, otherwise id of been floating downstream by now  :lol:

[ChrisW]

I got three 6' x 4' sheets of this to replace the sound proofing and carpets in mine. The sound proofing is the worst part as it never dries out completely - parts of my floor were rusting from the inside out.
Road noise doesn't seem to be any worse and after being out the other night the floor dries pretty quickly after being soaked  :lol:

[treeman]

PERFECT !!!! well done that man  :clap: u read my mind :lol: an that looks really neat, i took the carpets out then lifted the soundproofing an then saw the reason why its been letting in so much water so quick, rustmite so its out with the soundproofing an in with the welder(again) cheers for the link mate il give them a bell  :D

[ChrisW]

They're just off the inner ring road on the A435 by the mosque  ;)
If you haven't binned it already, keep the carpet to use as a template for cutting the rubber.

[NeilWilson]

Does the rubber fold around the contours of the floor & transmission tunnel easily ?, ie. is it a straight swap between the carpet and the sheeting ?
Thanks.

Neil

[ChrisW]

Wasn't too difficult to fit. I had already binned the carpets and sound proofing at the beginning of the rebuild but used masking paper to make templates.
It's much easier to fit with the seats out which isn't too difficult a job - 4x10mm bolts on each seat base.
The mats are in four sections -
Load space floor up to edge of rear seat box, floor space between rear and front seats and one each for the driver and passenger footwell.
The rubber folds quite nicely to give a continuous finish against the transmission tunnel.
If I were to do it again I think I would probably add a few extra cuts to make the mats a little bit easier to remove.
Use generous cuts as it's a lot easier to trim small bits so they fit rather than add bits to take up gaps!

[crazymac]

Thats great looking stuff, did you say that you bought 3 of them? seems an awful lot of mat?

Let me know, cos I'm about to take my carpets out!

[ChrisW]

Yes, 3 sheets - boot floor out of one, rear footwell out of other one and last sheet for passenger and driver footwells.
There was a bit of excess but not enough to make a good job out of it from two sheets!

[crazymac]

 :doh: Who's dumb idea was it to take my carpet out?? Oh yeh, Mine :doh:

My passenger side is dry, so I've left that one, and cut around to get the drivers one out!! What a mess!!! Soaking wet, I could squeeze water out of the soundproofing! Time to find out why its getting so wet that side? I think its coming in from the top of the windscreen!

Time for some cleaning, wire brushing, possibly some welding :roll: and some of that matting!

[Ja1983]

if its going to get wet, remove it all... anything you put down will hold water in, and against the floor (and superstar DJ, Russ-T will make a dramatic entry... or exit as the case may be!)

mine will be coming out shortly as i suspect the water retention under the drivers seat is comparable to that of lake windemere....

also dont forget that if you stop water coming in, you stop it going out....!