AuthorTopic: Caliper bolts  (Read 783 times)

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Offline JIM 2B

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Caliper bolts
« on: February 08, 2008, 08:38:40 »
Hi, anyone know where i can get some stainless steel caliper bolts front and rear (cap head/alan bolts!) for a 1995 300tdi

To replace them nasty horrid hard to get out pain in the **** :evil: original items...that have taken me two days to remove with heat etc.. I dont want to go there again.. [-X

Cheers ;)

 
300tdi disco and a Series 2B forward control, BEAST THING...

With a series 2 swb body tub, lwb sides and roof and now a marshall ambulance body....

Kitchen sink, two beds.....

paraboilcs

PTO winch

V8 ready to fit
1 Ton series 3 gearbox ready to fit......

Wolfie

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Re: Caliper bolts
« Reply #1 on: February 08, 2008, 08:59:30 »
I doubt very much that you will be able to find stainless bolts which have sufficient tensile strength. I've had a look around and commonly available A2 grade SS fixings have a tensile strength of 700 N/mm2 which is less than the 800 N/mm2 of 8.8 grade normal steel bolts (and I think that caliper bolts are made of a higher grade material anyway).

Just stick to the proper bolts.

Offline Skibum346

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Re: Caliper bolts
« Reply #2 on: February 08, 2008, 10:53:43 »
I doubt very much that you will be able to find stainless bolts which have sufficient tensile strength. I've had a look around and commonly available A2 grade SS fixings have a tensile strength of 700 N/mm2 which is less than the 800 N/mm2 of 8.8 grade normal steel bolts (and I think that caliper bolts are made of a higher grade material anyway).

Just stick to the proper bolts.

To add to Wolfie's comments, when re-assembling, remember to put copper grease on the threads to prevent the same problem re-occuring in the future!

Skibum

Wolfie

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Re: Caliper bolts
« Reply #3 on: February 08, 2008, 11:01:10 »
I doubt very much that you will be able to find stainless bolts which have sufficient tensile strength. I've had a look around and commonly available A2 grade SS fixings have a tensile strength of 700 N/mm2 which is less than the 800 N/mm2 of 8.8 grade normal steel bolts (and I think that caliper bolts are made of a higher grade material anyway).

Just stick to the proper bolts.

To add to Wolfie's comments, when re-assembling, remember to put copper grease on the threads to prevent the same problem re-occuring in the future!

Skibum

Sorry, but I must disagree strongly.

I'm assuming that the Discovery bolts are similar to those on 110s which should be fitted with Thread Lock. In fact new 110 bolts come with threadlock pre applied.

Offline JIM 2B

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Re: Caliper bolts
« Reply #4 on: February 08, 2008, 11:18:43 »
thanks for advice ;) are 110 bolts the same thread 12mm fine with a 12 sided head? the bolts that took so long to get out was because of the amount of thread lock! and the 12 sided head that you cannot get any grip on :?
300tdi disco and a Series 2B forward control, BEAST THING...

With a series 2 swb body tub, lwb sides and roof and now a marshall ambulance body....

Kitchen sink, two beds.....

paraboilcs

PTO winch

V8 ready to fit
1 Ton series 3 gearbox ready to fit......

Wolfie

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Re: Caliper bolts
« Reply #5 on: February 08, 2008, 11:29:53 »
Yes, 110 bolts are similar (possibly the same but don't quote me on that).

When the 12 point head isn't corroded to nothing it is actually better than a 6 point, with a well fitting socket. If yours are that bad I would suggest replacing them all, they aren't stupid money from a good independant specialist (can't remember how much).

Offline BK

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Re: Caliper bolts
« Reply #6 on: February 08, 2008, 11:47:17 »
£4.23 each+vat,just bought some
1998 Jeep Cherokee,3" rough country lift,31"Muds,front disconnects,and a custom snorkle..........just lovin it!!!

Offline chris9119

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Re: Caliper bolts
« Reply #7 on: February 08, 2008, 11:51:06 »
and the 12 sided head that you cannot get any grip on :?

Can if you clean them up first and then use the correctly sized, 12 sided socket.....  :idea: :idea:
Chris
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Offline JIM 2B

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Re: Caliper bolts
« Reply #8 on: February 08, 2008, 12:30:07 »
  :) umm have managed to clean them up and get them out using a good snapon socket on but still took a hell of a lot of heat and a big  breaker bar to get them out  ;)

I think far to tight for the job they are doing anyone know the torque setting ??

Im looking for a solution to prevent the problem happening again  ;) hence the idea of using stainless :)

Have found bolts at 0.55p here!!

http://www.famousfour.co.uk/new_parts/parts.php?veh=disco_300&sec=brks
300tdi disco and a Series 2B forward control, BEAST THING...

With a series 2 swb body tub, lwb sides and roof and now a marshall ambulance body....

Kitchen sink, two beds.....

paraboilcs

PTO winch

V8 ready to fit
1 Ton series 3 gearbox ready to fit......

Offline chris9119

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Re: Caliper bolts
« Reply #9 on: February 08, 2008, 13:12:58 »
There the ones. Bet BK is kicking himself now :doh: :doh:
Chris
Si hoc adfixum in obice legere potes, et liberaliter educatus et nimis propinquus ades

http://members.mud-club.com/profiles/chris9119/gallery

Mud-Clubbers do it on channel 30






Offline BK

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Re: Caliper bolts
« Reply #10 on: February 08, 2008, 16:25:37 »
B****KS.................saw me comin didnt they :evil:
1998 Jeep Cherokee,3" rough country lift,31"Muds,front disconnects,and a custom snorkle..........just lovin it!!!

Offline Range Rover Blues

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Re: Caliper bolts
« Reply #11 on: February 08, 2008, 17:01:21 »
A good threadlock will protecxt the threads as well as copper grease and I have to agree that stainless is not suitable for the aplication.  In fact stainless fasteners are banned in motorsport becuase of the fatigue effects on chrome steels.
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