Cooling Woes....Still!

[Skibum346]

Some of you will remember I've had a few problems replacing the water pump on my beastie.... finally finished it along with the electric fan mods last week.   :dance:

First day of use and it was still warming rather too fast for my liking so at lunchtime yesterday I whipped out the thermostat to see if that had ben restricting things. Dunno what's changed but on the way home I had to pull over cuz it was proper hot!   :doh: :roll: :'(

New radiator is on order from that place where you keep horses... ;)  and if that don't cure it.... I'm gonna be a bit cheesed off and skint cuz the only thing left is the block!  :shock: [-o<

Wish me luck folks... and any words of wisdom would be gratefully appreciated!  :help:

[Charlie716]

I didn't see the original thread so apologies if this has already been sugested / tried.

Have you tried disconnecting the radiator then back flushing the rad and the block, if you get some crud dislodged and it partly blocks a water way, flushing in the oposite direction to the normal water flow can dislodge it. You need a hose with a good fast flow and some gaffer tape and just flush the rad by attaching the hose to the bottom outlet and let the gunk flow out the top, then connect the hose to the top hose off the motor (with the thermostat out is best) and block the bottom hose, fill with water then allow to flow out the bottom hose.

Repeat the above until you get clean water out.

[chris9119]

Frank

Buy yourself some central heating inhibitor. Run it around the system for a couple of days and that will dissipate any solids within the system. Flush through and bobs your uncle..... The only negative to this is if you have any iffy joints, the inhibitor will find them........

Personally, I think your rad is us. Mine was on BB and since changing it, gauge won't go above halfway :D :D

[Skibum346]

Thanks for the input guys, I'll try the new rad first as it's already on order. Then... even if everything is OK... I think I'll pass some central heating inhibitor through the block anyway and call it a service!  :roll:

Chris, when you talk about joints, I take it you mean in the rad etc as the ones in the block should all be gasketed and bolted up tight?  :-k

Skibum

[muck_truck]

Mine used to run warm all the time to the point of a hot day you could only do 55mph on the motorway with heaters on to keep temp low enough to drive safely.   The radiator used to pass water freely when a hose was running though it (normal and backflush) 

i put a new rad in and problem sorted  :D can do 70 on a motorway now on a nice hot day no worries.  i did change the thermostat to a britpart one at the same time, as i didnt trust the weetabix one (even though it was a new one) that was in there.

EDIT:  :doh: just noticed this is discovery forum not defender, but suppose same theroy still applies

[chris9119]

Chris, when you talk about joints, I take it you mean in the rad etc as the ones in the block should all be gasketed and bolted up tight?  :-k Skibum

Frank, dependant upon age and material, the inhibitor could remove the internal surfaces and thus cause a leak or two...., the main areas are the rad, but you will be ok with the new one, but I would recommend the flush before fitting the new one...., the heater matrix joints, there brazed, the heater matrix flow and return pipes, there brazed and gasketed...

Inhibitor will find weak spots......., metal or not.....

[Range Rover Blues]

I thought my old rad was ok 'till I swapped it.  Hopefully yours will be the same, they just don't seem to like hard water.  I also use "water wetter" to lower the tempt of my coolant, but then mine works quite hard at times ;)