AuthorTopic: Electrical problem diagnosis  (Read 758 times)

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Offline morfis

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Electrical problem diagnosis
« on: February 24, 2008, 12:32:32 »
Hi folks,

went out to the bus this morning and it seems electricaly dead - central locking not working, opened with key, no lights on dash.

Did the same a week ago - new battery was available so dropped that in and it started ok, went out to shops, came back - two hours later it wouldn't start. Disconnected battery and left it on charge for a couple of hours before going away for a few days (not in the car). Yesterday  I reconnected the battery and it started fine.

Any suggestions on how to diagnose the problem would be appreciated.

oops , forgot model -  98 disco 1
We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing. - George Bernard Shaw

Offline Evilgoat

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Re: Electrical problem diagnosis
« Reply #1 on: February 24, 2008, 12:39:24 »
Pull out glowplug fuses, make sure that any heay consumers (Rear window heater, headlights etc) are off them put a meter in series with the battery, make sure its rated at least 20A and then pull fuses out till the drain goes away. Its possible its a leaky Diode in the alternator
I must confess the the activities of the UK governments for the past couple of years have been watched with frank admiration and amazement by Lord Vetinari. Outright theft as a policy had never occured to him.

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Offline morfis

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Re: Electrical problem diagnosis
« Reply #2 on: February 24, 2008, 14:47:55 »
Thanks. What would a typical normal drain current be (glowplug fuse removed, standard TDi wiring)?
We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing. - George Bernard Shaw

Offline morfis

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Re: Electrical problem diagnosis
« Reply #3 on: February 25, 2008, 17:51:48 »
Current drain with glowplug fuse removed, ignition off - 200mA  which doesn't seem excessive?
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Offline J.D.

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Re: Electrical problem diagnosis
« Reply #4 on: February 25, 2008, 17:56:53 »
At a guess I would say the diode pack on the back of your alternator is knackered mate.
J.D.
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Offline Evilgoat

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Re: Electrical problem diagnosis
« Reply #5 on: February 25, 2008, 20:10:48 »
200ma sounds a little high to be honest, only things drawing current should be ECU battery backup (if it has one) Alarm and possibly radio, all should be in the <10ma range each. Some alarms in standby draw nanoamps.

Its not worryingly high but its enough to say, nail a battery in a few days. Pulle the feed to the battery off of the laternator and then see what happens.
I must confess the the activities of the UK governments for the past couple of years have been watched with frank admiration and amazement by Lord Vetinari. Outright theft as a policy had never occured to him.

-- (Terry Pratchett, alt.fan.pratchett)

EX HK Police Mitsubishi Pajero 2.8TD
Audi S2 Avant 360bhp
Transit LWB 2.5di (The Shed)


Offline morfis

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Re: Electrical problem diagnosis
« Reply #6 on: February 26, 2008, 11:19:19 »
Thanks for the suggestions.

I had disconnected the radio as well (because there is nonstandard wiring to nokia car kit on the same feed). Alarm is standard disco fit.

Will try the alternator feed today.
We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing. - George Bernard Shaw

 






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