2 inch lifted 300Tdi - rear suspension & prop shaft

[nat_hale]

Hi all,

I've recently fitted a 2" Terrafirma lift kit from Frogs Island to my 300 Tdi Disco.  A vibration has started to occur and it looks like its due to the rubber 'donut' on the diff end of the rear prop.  I've ordered another because its very old if not original, so worth replacing.  I understand if its a recuring problem then a 200 prop & flange can be fitted, but would rather avoid having to go down that route unless necessary!  Sounds a difficult job, outside my 'nut and bolt' spanner wielding abilities - is it as difficult as I think, changing the flange??

Anyway, the lift kit came with standard length shocks, much to my disappointment (they don't do longer ones!), which despite being reassured they would be OK, they definately aren't - they bottom out on the rear and stop the axle flexing, articulation is rubbish!   So I'm getting rid of them already for longer shocks.  My question is, would it be worth having cranked trailing arms?  I don't feel I need castor correction on the front, steering, etc is fine (front was only lifted just over 1 inch anyway  :roll:), but would changing the trailing arms help with articulation on the rear (with the longer shocks), and more importantly would they worsen or improve the 'donut eating' of the rear prop??  (I know castor correction usually means changing the front prop due to angles, etc, but not sure if cranked trailing arms have a similar effect?)

I know I'm probably going to get loads of different opinions on this, but any advice would be welcomed!

Thanks in advance!
Nat

[lee celtic]

Changing the 300 prop for a 200 one would be as easy as changing the donut...

cranked arms would get you 2" of extra drop on the axle ..(and more importantly take the strain off the bushes)

you could drop the damper mounts so you can use the dampers you have...(though I'd send em' back and get em' changed or refunded)

castor correction means the steering self centers but a lot of cars inc mine didn't need it ..(suck it and see)

you will only have to change the front prop if you go for a much bigger lift...

Hope that all helps :D :D

[auf_wiedersehen_pet]

I've recently fitted a 2" Terrafirma lift kit from Frogs Island to my 300 Tdi Disco.  A vibration has started to occur and it looks like its due to the rubber 'donut' on the diff end of the rear prop.  I've ordered another because its very old if not original, so worth replacing.  I understand if its a recuring problem then a 200 prop & flange can be fitted, but would rather avoid having to go down that route unless necessary!  Sounds a difficult job, outside my 'nut and bolt' spanner wielding abilities - is it as difficult as I think, changing the flange??

It's not that bad. My garage charged me 1 hour labour - they already had the flange bits on a "broken" disco.

Anyway, the lift kit came with standard length shocks, much to my disappointment (they don't do longer ones!), which despite being reassured they would be OK, they definately aren't - they bottom out on the rear and stop the axle flexing, articulation is rubbish!   So I'm getting rid of them already for longer shocks.

Why not get lowered mounts? Cheap and easy to fit. They look trick too. That would leave standard length shocks which would be easy to replace whereever you are in the world.

Should the phrase for the shocks be "topping out" as they are fully stretched or is that something that only happens to buildings?

[nat_hale]

Hi guys, thanks for the quick replies!

Changing the 300 prop for a 200 one would be as easy as changing the donut...

The donut is a simple 6 (from memory?) bolt job - I like jobs like that cos I can see what's going to happen when I undo things!! Wouldn't have a clue how to remove/replace the flange?... can't even picutre quite what I'd be removing!!  :roll: :lol: I need the car everyday so am wary of taking things apart that I can't put back!!

cranked arms would get you 2" of extra drop on the axle ..(and more importantly take the strain off the bushes)

Yeah, I guessed that would be the case! Thanks!

you could drop the damper mounts so you can use the dampers you have...(though I'd send em' back and get em' changed or refunded)

I asked why they were just standard length, but they said that they were optimum for use with that kit,etc, etc and had various reasons!  Its also the hassle that I didn't know they were a problem til they were fitted, by which time its a pain in the backside to remove them again (plus the old shocks couldn't be re-used!), they don't do a longer version to exchange, so they've now been on a couple of months.  Looked at lower mounts, but most seemed fairly expensive, especially when pro-comps are only £30 each!  Plus its more rusty bolts to contend with!! (are you starting to see the pattern to my method of doing things... I'd say its to keep things simple, others would call it laziness!!  :lol:)

castor correction means the steering self centers but a lot of cars inc mine didn't need it ..(suck it and see)

Yeah, mine seems fine, probably partly because its only just over an inch lift at the front (good kit this Terrafirma  :roll: :roll:)!  No probs with steering,etc, so will save that expense!!

It's not that bad. My garage charged me 1 hour labour - they already had the flange bits on a "broken" disco.

Oh right, thats useful to know, so if I do have probs it shouldn't cost an arm and a leg!!

Should the phrase for the shocks be "topping out" as they are fully stretched or is that something that only happens to buildings?

Umm... not sure!!  :? :D  I just said bottoming out because the axle is at its lowest point!! There was a slight logic to it... you know what I mean!!  :lol:

Thanks again to you both for the replies!
Cheers,
Nat

[Range Rover Blues]

To do the doughnut the whol prop has to come off and it's fiddly on mine.  There is a spigot on the diff that goes inside the prop.  This spigot fits into a rubber bush, if you don't replace that bush then the doughnut won't last very long.  Look for signs of chaffing on the surface of the doughnut to confirm this.
 The spigot bush is more important to balance than the doughnut.

Cranked rear arms will only stop the bushes binding which can limit droop, they don't effect the geometry unless they are badly made and won't increase axle droop beyond what the shocks allow.  Many of us don't have them.

You can lower the shocker mounts by 2" without the shocks bottoming out before the axle hits the bump stops, but not having longer shocks, that's a swizz .  You'll end up with no better articulation than you had to start with as it's unlikey you will ever compress the new springs enough to hit the bump stops.

If you only lifted the front 1" then you are within manufacturing tolerance and I'd say leave the arms alone, just make sure the top UJ on the prop is well greased and if it goes, C'est la Vie.