AuthorTopic: Sills?  (Read 1323 times)

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Offline Mr Alford

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Sills?
« on: March 31, 2008, 21:50:57 »
when  i bought my landy it had loads of thick strong sealant over my sills and the other day i clipped them and found out alot of it was rotten so ive cut off the rotten bits and im going to patch the rotten bits up then re-do the bottom bit that has rotten has anyone done this with pics please so i can see the extnt of the job i also have a 3 door if thats ay help
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Re: Sills?
« Reply #1 on: March 31, 2008, 22:11:08 »
im sure range rover blues has sills being done step by step in his gallary pic on his range rover for the basic idea

Offline Range Rover Blues

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Re: Sills?
« Reply #2 on: April 01, 2008, 02:02:40 »
 Not the definitive "how to" guide, it's hard to keep the camare clean when you're up to your armpits in rust, but you'll get the idea.

http://members.mud-club.com/profiles/Range%20Rover%20Blues/gallery/RustyRRR
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Offline stuntman

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Re: Sills?
« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2008, 11:37:48 »
STOP!!!!!

This is the best time to stick some box section steel in, 60*120*1400 at 4-5mm thick, cut a slant at each end then plate over, these are great rock sliders, I did both of mine in under  5 hours, and they have been severly abused without fear of damaging the sills.

Total cost from local metal merchant was around £35 ish

Andi
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Offline lee celtic

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Re: Sills?
« Reply #4 on: April 01, 2008, 16:28:32 »
I agree but I used 60 x 60 box 3mm thick just cut along both sides of the sill about 20mm up then slot in the box section and weld both edges (I drilled and pop rivited it in three places just to hold them in place and pull the sill in tight)  :D total cost £29 including enough box to do it again or make sliders :twisted:
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Offline Cheggs

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Re: Sills?
« Reply #5 on: April 01, 2008, 16:58:01 »
On my disco the sills had rotted but the floor was ok so got some new sills for aRRC and trimed them and had them welded over the old sills then fitted some rock sliders with tree guards from Guardian. RRc part was half the price of the Disco part, but doesnt have the holes for the plastic rivets that hold the plastic over sill on. But you coulds always mark and drill.
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Offline stuntman

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Re: Sills?
« Reply #6 on: April 01, 2008, 18:36:16 »
60*120*1400 is the exact length to go in place of the sills
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Offline Disco-Ron

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Re: Sills?
« Reply #7 on: April 01, 2008, 20:49:02 »
STOP!!!!!

This is the best time to stick some box section steel in, 60*120*1400 at 4-5mm thick, cut a slant at each end then plate over, these are great rock sliders, I did both of mine in under  5 hours, and they have been severly abused without fear of damaging the sills.

Total cost from local metal merchant was around £35 ish

Andi

Any pictures, cos my disco is heading this way.....!!
gone from 200tdi.... to 300tdi... still with loads done to it, in fact, even more than the last truck...LOL!!!

Offline stuntman

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Re: Sills?
« Reply #8 on: April 02, 2008, 07:45:52 »
No worries, I'll try to get a couple up in the next few days, although I'm sure someone posted a link when i first started asking about rock sliders.

Andi
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Offline python

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Re: Sills?
« Reply #9 on: April 02, 2008, 08:23:38 »
im going the slider route also. stuntman how did you get around the bit at the bottom of the b'' pillar. between the doors.?

Offline stuntman

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Re: Sills?
« Reply #10 on: April 02, 2008, 09:38:32 »
Right, looking side on at the sill, you have the A pillar base and B pillar base (the bits the doors are attached to), I cut the whole side of the sill off and the bottom rear of the sill, leaving about 10mm all the way around the pillars, you'll end up with a kind of L shaped bit you cut out, you can now press the box section in with a jack, and seam weld all the way around.

I'll try to find the link when I can.

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Offline clover

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Re: Sills?
« Reply #11 on: April 02, 2008, 19:09:58 »
Not the definitive "how to" guide, it's hard to keep the camare clean when you're up to your armpits in rust, but you'll get the idea.

http://members.mud-club.com/profiles/Range%20Rover%20Blues/gallery/RustyRRR

My word... I thought Pinky was bad! That is some serious corrosion!!! I'd have contemplated calling it a day if I found that lot!

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Offline clover

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Re: Sills?
« Reply #12 on: April 02, 2008, 19:14:08 »
No worries, I'll try to get a couple up in the next few days, although I'm sure someone posted a link when i first started asking about rock sliders.

Andi

The question I have is concerning the inner sills particularly the strut support that has the captive nut for the seat bolt and the two body mounts. Or are you leaving the inner sills in place and welding the box section to the inner side of the sill or are you cutting around these pieces and leaving them in place and welding the box section to them?

1996 Discovery 300TDi Affectionately known as Clover. 
Cooper Discover STT 33/12.50/R15, a 2" body lift off chassis. H/D springs with 50mm platform spacers on the rear. Nothing on the front as they foul the shocks :-) 11" travel rough country shocks and mountings with dislocating spring cones,  adjusted wheel arches, safari snorkel. H/D rear bumper, demountable drop plate,. H/D steering guard, QT diff guards.
tree sliders, Split charge running twin Optima's, spotlight bar with 4 whoppers on it, H/D winch bumper, 12,000lbs winch,  A bar with 2 50w mini spotlights, brownchurch full length roof rack. 2 work lights.CB,
Fine English engineering modified to work!

Offline stuntman

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Re: Sills?
« Reply #13 on: April 03, 2008, 07:55:58 »
I left the onner sill in place, just removing the outer and the bottom ( although on my first sill both body mount needed to be remade along with 75% of the sill),

When you're left with the inner sill drill alot of holes through it and you can get a stronger body between the sill and the box section by filling these holes with weld.

I'll be doing this to my new truck in the next month or so and I'll try to do a mini step by step guide if I get around to it.
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Offline Ja1983

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Re: Sills?
« Reply #14 on: April 03, 2008, 19:47:56 »
one thing i`d be war of is body droop.... the sills are the strong bit between front & back which support the roof...

Also mine has been done with 3mm plate...

also, also.. its best to cut out the rot rather than patch over it, as the piece behind will continue to corrode, and you`ll end up with a much bigger piece to replace.

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