AuthorTopic: OIL LIGHT SHOWS AT IDLE AND TURNS OFF WHEN ENGINE SPEED IS INCREASED HELP!!!!  (Read 2227 times)

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Offline landymad

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I have recently changed my engine in my disco 200tdi. however whenever i drive the car for a long time the oil warning ight turns on when the car is idling. However when the engine speed is increased only slightly the oil warning light turns off. when the car is cold the oil light is off. i took the car to the garage and they suggested changing the oil filter and changin the oil grade to 15/40w. i did this today however the oil light still turnes on. today i also changed the oil pressure switch and tested the temperature switch which full opens and closes. CAN ANYONE HELP ME PLEASE

cheers

sam

s@mbarfoot.com

Offline Disco-Ron

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Do you have the oil cooler in the radiator plumbed in..???  sounds as though the oil is getting too warm, and therefore too thin.... hence not being pumped well enough at tickover.......

Oil grade is important, oil level matters just as much.......
gone from 200tdi.... to 300tdi... still with loads done to it, in fact, even more than the last truck...LOL!!!

Offline russ3120

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I have the same problem
changed the oil filter, changed the oil and still the light is on when warm at idle

Offline beast5680

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this might sound dumb but is the idle set too low?
Neal

let him that hath understanding reckon the number of the beast

He, who laughs last, laughs best. He who laughs at Chuck Norris dies.

Offline Range Rover Blues

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Oil gest thinner as it gets hotter and the engine oil pump produces more flow/pressure at higher pseeds.  These 2 things combined give exactly these symptoms.

Possible causes,
oil pump past it's best,
the pressure relief valve in the pump faulty or blocked
oil too thin/wrong grade
excessive wear of the crank main bearings
faulty head gasket

Head gasket I hear you say, well run the engine and look inside the rocker cover, if there is loads of oil in there then too much is going to the rocker chamber too fast, the flow of oil into the head is regulated by a throttle plate in the head gasket 9there are more for the water jaket) and it's like a little silver disk with a hole in it.  if that disk was dislodged during the build then the oil flow to the head would be too great, thus starving the crank and reducing oil pressure. 

That said I would obvioulsy expect that on an engine that had ben apart at some point.

As a first option I would use this oil . because the stabiliser will protect your engine if the oilpressure falls but also it will maintain it's viscosity over the full service period.

Otherwise try this, it's thicker than normal for you engine but if you still see the oil light then you have more significant problems, Again it has the oil stabiliser.
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

Offline lee celtic

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Might sound simple but try changing the oil presure sender for a new one .

My light was doing the samething but when I loosend one of the oil pipe the presure was fine on removing the sensor the hole in the centre was full of black stuff replacement in light goes off :D sorted
so many hills , so little time ....
discovery TD5
work in progress...lol

Offline Range Rover Blues

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And/or fit a pressure gauge rather than a light switch.
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

Offline lee celtic

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I fancy fitting the triple version of this



then fitting a volt meter, oil pressure and boost guage but I think the angles would not be right for the disco a pillar as they are designed for a car with a more slopping windscreen :roll:
so many hills , so little time ....
discovery TD5
work in progress...lol

Offline Range Rover Blues

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If it's not in your line of sight you'll soon start to ignore it.  Best place is atop the dahsboard.
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

Offline CNorman

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what oil were you originally using?

Offline Range Rover Blues

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And where did the engne come from?
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

Offline landymad

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what oil were you originally using?

i was orginally using 10/40w

Offline landymad

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And where did the engne come from?

the engine came from york by courier. the engine had been in a car that had been crashed into a ditch, back in november


Offline landymad

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Do you have the oil cooler in the radiator plumbed in..???  sounds as though the oil is getting too warm, and therefore too thin.... hence not being pumped well enough at tickover.......

Oil grade is important, oil level matters just as much.......

my rad is pretty mucked up as it is missed a lot of the fins but is not leaking. however if it was this that wasn't cooling the oil quick enough then the water temp would rise as well.

Offline bilge rat

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fit an 82 stat in it , thats the spec but usually you get given an 88, thats o.k but everything helps, cooler the water cooler the oil will be from the oil cooler, have you changed the the thermostat in the oil filter housing theres one in the lower part .there not dear...go from there and as already said knock the tick over up slightly..alan...

Offline Range Rover Blues

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Alan has a good point there, the oil cooler has it's own thermostat to help the oil warm up quicker, it could be stuck shut.  Also the pressure relief valve could be stuck open or damaged slightly/dirty.
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

Offline landymad

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i turned the tick over up and still the oil light comes on. this other thermostat, where can it be found ive tested the one inside the oil filter housing and it seems to be fine. however i think ill change it anyway. by anychance there couldn't be a blockage somewhere in the oil filter housing.

cheers sam

Offline Xtremeteam

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oil pump,

my old 200 did what you are saying & the oil pump was gubbed
Mike
I can Drive.. You can criticize..
I too can criticize like you.. but can you Drive like me??


Offline landymad

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oil pump,

my old 200 did what you are saying & the oil pump was gubbed

ive had the same problem with both engines. becuase recently i changed the engine and now im havin the same problem with the new engine.

Offline Range Rover Blues

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Did you carry any parts over?  oil pump? oil cooler in the rad balocked perhaps :-k

Or are you just unlucky?


BTW I think that both valves are within the oil pump or close by.
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

Offline landymad

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Did you carry any parts over?  oil pump? oil cooler in the rad balocked perhaps :-k

Or are you just unlucky?


BTW I think that both valves are within the oil pump or close by.

the only parts i carried over was the oil filter housing, the radiator pipes and radiator.
 i changed the oil pressure again, and changed the oil filter for a genuine one.

i think it maybe the oil temp switch which should should expanded out to allow oil to flow to the radiator. it work using a metallic strip however i have arleady tested it in boiling water to see if it moved.

 






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